Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm sure there are a few in here who are fans of the clack.

I personally have run Cherry MX Brown equipped keyboards from various brands. Apart from Steelseries M800 (which I spilt juice on a couple of times before it died). Currently rocking a CM MK730 (TKL), planning on lubing the scratch MX Brown switches.

Since lockdown is in place, gee'd myself up for a GMMK full size base with some 'Boba U4' silent tactile switches "for the missus". Waiting for the base and key caps to arrive.

  • Confused 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482762-mechanical-keyboards/
Share on other sites

On 8/25/2021 at 11:22 PM, niZmO_Man said:

I'm sure there are a few in here who are fans of the clack.

I personally have run Cherry MX Brown equipped keyboards from various brands. Apart from Steelseries M800 (which I spilt juice on a couple of times before it died). Currently rocking a CM MK730 (TKL), planning on lubing the scratch MX Brown switches.

Since lockdown is in place, gee'd myself up for a GMMK full size base with some 'Boba U4' silent tactile switches "for the missus". Waiting for the base and key caps to arrive.

I have one but I've never been super into the whole custom keyboard thing, my tastes are probably too basic to bother with anything complicated. MX Browns are kind of scratchy but they're fine.

I was keen on trying to lube the MX Brown switches, but then I'd have to de-solder my keyboard. Which is how I ended up down the hot-swap rabbit hole haha.

At least I'll have another keyboard to use while I de-construct my current one.

I bought a new keyboard last year and wanted backlighting/RBG with a nice wrist rest... rules out 90% of keyboards.

Got a Corsair K60 Pro SE, with hybrid switches. The switches are good, actuation is a little bit high for my liking. Would have been good to get some audio/volume control otherwise for the money im happy with it.

I got into this during the most recent lockdown.....  this is not a cheap hobby!  i ended up going full custom,

Tofu65 case with a foam insert and the brass weight

DZ65 hot swap PCB with the RGB 

Brass plate with foam between the plate and PCB

Boba u4t switches which i pulled apart and lubed the side of the stems and donut dipped the springs (its a tactile switch like an MX brown, but is much more pronounced in the bump, and also has a lot less wobble and have a really nice sound to them)

i have temporary keycap set on the moment (AKKO Macaw) while i wait for my GMK striker 2 keycaps to arrive next year (the wait on keycaps is crazy!!!)

Very nice.

Just finished the GMMK. The Boba U4 doesn't have much pre-actuation travel, basically none haha. Different feel to the MX Brown, but that's the beauty of modified switches.

Edited by niZmO_Man
edited sentence to make more sense

I've been a fan of heavy tactile (Like the old IBM buckling spring ones), but they can get tiring, so MX Brown is a good compromise. But would like to try out some other switches. MX Red is pretty good for gaming though.

Anyone tried out these random "milky" or "panda" switches? I figured they're variants of Red or Brown.

  • 9 months later...
  • 11 months later...

My old CoolerMaster was being dodgy, couldn't be bothered taking it apart, so bought a Keychron Q5 with Gareton G Pro Brown (feels like lubed MX Browns 🤷‍♂️). Solid keyboard! A little tingy, needs some more dampening in the larger keycaps, and maybe o-rings.

Overall a very solid keyboard, hard to beat the value for money.

I’m on a Royal Kludge RK84 mechanical keyboard in my work from home setup. Connected by Bluetooth to the MacBook Pro, the Samsung M8 and the Hackintosh. Got the all black double shot PBT keys that led the backlit LEDs shine thru. I’ve added extra deadening to the inside and running Cherry browns that have been lubed and got 1.5mm rubber o-ring dampeners.

image.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...