Jump to content
SAU Community

Re-using Rod Bolts

killa-watt
 Share

Recommended Posts

killa-watt Apprentice

killa-watt

Posted
Posted

I'm sure this has been covered somewhere but I can't find info.

What's the general consensus when it comes to checking bearings, can I simply re-tighten the nuts on the rods or do I need to throw em and start again. Are they a TTY bolt, it's on an RB30 if that's different to the other RBs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482795-re-using-rod-bolts/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
On 9/5/2021 at 8:39 AM, killa-watt said:

So your saying once you undo em they are bin jobs

Yes, but not because they are TTY bolts (which they are not). It is because they are 30 years old, have done a million billion cycles and an engine builder is BUILDING an engine, usually with the intent to push it hard.

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

I agree to replacing original factory rod bolts but would happily re-use upgraded bolts next time.  Presumably you’re chasing more power than the original bolts were ever designed to handle plus the age factor so replace them now and they will be fine for the next build as well.

CowsWithGuns Enthusiast

CowsWithGuns

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm in a similar situation. I've already assembled the bottom end of my 25Neo and next is installing the head. My engine shop said I'm good to reuse the factory rods and bolts (RB26 rods and matching bolts as it is a NEO bottom end, with forged pistons) for this power goal and application (street). I've also been told that there's not much point getting ARP rod bolts if I'm reusing stock rods.

On 9/5/2021 at 10:26 AM, GTSBoy said:

Yes, but not because they are TTY bolts (which they are not). It is because they are 30 years old, have done a million billion cycles and an engine builder is BUILDING an engine, usually with the intent to push it hard.

This has reinspired the fear of god in me. GTSBoy would it be totally moronic to not pull it apart and bring the rods to a shop to get reworked for ARP bolts? I ask this suspecting you will say yes, but I still want to hear it 😁

Edited by CowsWithGuns
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

6 of one or a half dozen of the other. The expense is not huge and the effort is not huge, so you could say that it is silly to not take the opportunity. It's just sump off, rod caps and pistons off and then put it back together afterwards. It's just annoying given the effort that you've put in goes to waste.

On the other side of the coin - the stock rod bolts have been demonstrated to happily run at streetable ~300rwkW power levels without failing on many engines for many years. So as long as you don't plan to beat on the engine real hard, it will probably be fine.

At this point you choose your poison and you drink it.

CowsWithGuns Enthusiast

CowsWithGuns

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks. I've had some time to research and clarify my thoughts. 300+ rwkw is already incredible relative to what I had, so I'm going to put it together and and just stay modest with the power. If I really want to go beyond say 350 or get heinous redlines, I'll pull it out when the time comes and upgrade. This is only my first build too, I think I shouldn't overthink part selection lest I make some rookie mistake that causes failure anyway...

If my bolts eat shit, I'll be sure to report back to the community ;) 

Edited by CowsWithGuns

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      4th gear sychro worn

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 headlight relay conversion?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • joshuaho96
      R33 headlight relay conversion?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • sonicii
      HY51 Fuga Hybrid

      By sonicii · Posted

      Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • GTSBoy
      4th gear sychro worn

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...