Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 TPS help

sic33r
 Share

Recommended Posts

BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

R33 what ?,  as that looks like a GTR one. That is not the part number on it by the way.

Why, are you sure it's faulty? What is it not doing - like can't get 0.5v at throttle closed or not deflecting to 4v + at full throttle ?

Anyway I have a GTR one here if required.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482875-r33-tps-help/#findComment-7956398
Share on other sites
sic33r Enthusiast

sic33r

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks very much for the reply

 

its off a r33 gtst rb3026

Drove the car yesterday and it won’t rev past 3k.. on the laptop the tps gauge is not moving at all. Spoke to engine builder he logged on and had a look and said something about 0.01v and it’s not changing or something while driving or anything

So just to clarify are you saying that the number is wrong on the back of that sensor in the photo?

or that number isn’t a part number it’s just a random number for something else?

Does your tps look similar? Same rotation etc?

again thanks for the info really appreciate it

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482875-r33-tps-help/#findComment-7956417
Share on other sites
sic33r Enthusiast

sic33r

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 03/10/2021 at 10:07 PM, BK said:

R33 what ?,  as that looks like a GTR one. That is not the part number on it by the way.

Why, are you sure it's faulty? What is it not doing - like can't get 0.5v at throttle closed or not deflecting to 4v + at full throttle ?

Anyway I have a GTR one here if required.

Thanks very much for the reply

 

its off a r33 gtst rb3026

Drove the car yesterday and it won’t rev past 3k.. on the laptop the tps gauge is not moving at all. Spoke to engine builder he logged on and had a look and said something about 0.01v and it’s not changing or something while driving or anything

So just to clarify are you saying that the number is wrong on the back of that sensor in the photo?

or that number isn’t a part number it’s just a random number for something else?

Does your tps look similar? Same rotation etc?

again thanks for the info really appreciate it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482875-r33-tps-help/#findComment-7956420
Share on other sites
BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted
On 04/10/2021 at 9:25 AM, sic33r said:

 

Thanks very much for the reply

 

its off a r33 gtst rb3026

Drove the car yesterday and it won’t rev past 3k.. on the laptop the tps gauge is not moving at all. Spoke to engine builder he logged on and had a look and said something about 0.01v and it’s not changing or something while driving or anything

So just to clarify are you saying that the number is wrong on the back of that sensor in the photo?

or that number isn’t a part number it’s just a random number for something else?

Does your tps look similar? Same rotation etc?

again thanks for the info really appreciate it

Yeah that's a random internal Nissan number, not a part number. So yeah that TPS is a GTR 32 -34 RB26 one as I have, as it has the two little locking locators for the throttle closed switch locking wire clip.

If it's at 0.01v constantly yeah that's bad, as it is supposed to be at around 0.5v at 0% throttle and linearly rises to about 4v at 100% throttle as it is a 0 - 5v signal. This is all testable with the engine off changing the state of the throttle position.

Continuity of the 3 signal wires which has the 5v +, 0v and signal v from ECU to the 3 pin should be checked first - you may have a break in your tps cable.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482875-r33-tps-help/#findComment-7956421
Share on other sites
sic33r Enthusiast

sic33r

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 04/10/2021 at 11:30 AM, BK said:

Yeah that's a random internal Nissan number, not a part number. So yeah that TPS is a GTR 32 -34 RB26 one as I have, as it has the two little locking locators for the throttle closed switch locking wire clip.

If it's at 0.01v constantly yeah that's bad, as it is supposed to be at around 0.5v at 0% throttle and linearly rises to about 4v at 100% throttle as it is a 0 - 5v signal. This is all testable with the engine off changing the state of the throttle position.

Continuity of the 3 signal wires which has the 5v +, 0v and signal v from ECU to the 3 pin should be checked first - you may have a break in your tps cable.

Thanks for the reply

yeah that makes sense, thanks very much.

The mechanic made me turn the car off and then put the foot flat and nothing changed still at 0.01v

Has a new loom in it. New wires to tps etc see photo. It run sweet on dyno and test drive afterwards. I went to go for first drive yesterday, warmed it up around town then went to give it a bit of a squirt and yeah wouldn’t let me go anything over 3k revs

As for the rotation is yours the same in the picture? is so I’ll be keen to buy if your keen to sell.

 

 

 

 

2F6B24BD-804F-4941-A678-8D171532C5D8.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482875-r33-tps-help/#findComment-7956424
Share on other sites
BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

Sorry didn't read the above ^

Correct, RB26 is clockwise.

On 04/10/2021 at 10:32 AM, BK said:

Yes same, it's an RB26 one.

Nope. Physically externally the same but with a counter clockwise instead of clockwise rotation.

Automatic ADM R31 / VL RB30 TPS.

I think I now need glasses...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482875-r33-tps-help/#findComment-7956688
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Out of curiosity, what's the reason for converting? I think @R3N3 might have the Frenchy's kit in the R33? I somehow think of you as the ambassador for realistic and clean street-driven setups nowadays  
    • V35_Paul
      V35 Overheat + Coolant Boil & Overflow + Engine not Starting

      By V35_Paul · Posted

      careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • GTSBoy
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • Zabuza
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By Zabuza · Posted

      I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • carnoobb
      V35 Overheat + Coolant Boil & Overflow + Engine not Starting

      By carnoobb · Posted

      Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
×
×
  • Create New...