Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can someone clarify which of these clutches are rated for more power/torque?

There is conflicting information on the WEB, OSG (JAP) states the TS2 can handle more power, but on other sites OSG states more power handling for the STR2 ...

https://osgiken.co.jp/Clutch/feature.html

 

I've got the STR2 in my R33 but it now needs a refresh, so thinking about alternatives. I'm also disappointed about how quickly the plates wore out.

I'm driving mostly in traffic that requires a lot of clutch actions, OSG stated that the STR2 is more designed for 'hard' operation and might wear out quickly.

 

 

Thanks

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482884-osg-str2cd-vs-ts2cd-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

The TS clutch is the superior clutch to the STR, but in reality they're both pretty shit for longevity. On a GTR anyway the TS2 doesn't last at all but might be a bit better on a rwd. If you have to get one of those two it's the TS2, but there are way better alternatives from Exedy, ORC, hell even a Nismo Coppermix will be miles better to use and last.

If you want it to last ages and be easy to use - carbon twin or triple ATS, but pricey.

Can you get Xclutch twins where you are ? Extremely good value for money with their twins, especially the carbons.

On 10/4/2021 at 1:47 PM, BK said:

The TS clutch is the superior clutch to the STR, but in reality they're both pretty shit (on a GTR anyway, a TS2 doesn't last) - there are way better alternatives from Exedy, ORC, hell even a Nismo Coppermax will be miles better to use and last.

If you want it to last ages and be easy to use - carbon twin or triple ATS, but pricey.

Can you get Xclutch twins where you are ? Extremely good value for money with their twins, especially the carbons.

Cheers ... I'll check the options you've mentioned.

Do you mean the Nismo Coppermix? They rate it @ 309KW / 420HP .. but that seem to be @ the crank(?) ... and would leave me no headroom

https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/catalogue_2021/html5.html#page=95

 

 

 

Edited by Torques

Not the 400ps at engine garbage, only the competition version if Nismo.

You want headroom and ease of use get an ATS carbon twin, you'll NEVER wear that out at your power level - they're 650 - 850 wheel hp rated. Even the ATS spec 1 carbon triple drives better than a TS2 and starts at 1000 wheel hp, but again $$$.

ATS really is on another level compared to everything mentioned.

On 10/4/2021 at 2:21 PM, BK said:

Not the 400ps at engine garbage, only the competition version if Nismo.

You want headroom and ease of use get an ATS carbon twin, you'll NEVER wear that out at your power level - they're 650 - 850 wheel hp rated. Even the ATS spec 1 carbon triple drives better than a TS2 and starts at 1000 wheel hp, but again $$$.

ATS really is on another level compared to everything mentioned.

 

Well, I'm at around 450ish hp at the crank. That's 335KW, so the clutch should ideally hold 550+  (410KW)

My main grief with the STR is that that plates are worn just after 13,000km. I suppose that driving 70% of the mileage in traffic killed it ..

 

 

Here's OSG's response

If your vehicle's power is under the clutch max capacity, then it is often caused by driving too gently on the clutch.

Our clutches were mostly designed for aggressive use in mind, and it is better to be used somewhat rough on occasions.

 

I don't think you can treat a website rating as a guarantee, after all it is torque that challenges a clutch's holding ability not power.

I am running a nismo coppermx twin in my 400awkw stagea with no issues.

On 10/4/2021 at 9:30 PM, Duncan said:

I don't think you can treat a website rating as a guarantee, after all it is torque that challenges a clutch's holding ability not power.

I am running a nismo coppermx twin in my 400awkw stagea with no issues.

Yes, thanks! Couldn't agree more .. not all manufacturers give a torque rating though.

I asked OSG about the rated torque and they wrote back that they don't give that figure (only power)

How's the pedal feel on the NISMO Twin?

 

Definitely agree the Nismo coppermix twin range drives very nicely and is more than enough for a lot of people's needs.

On 05/10/2021 at 8:11 AM, Duncan said:

I've only ever used singles before including in the race car, but the twin feels light underfoot and holds the power it needs to.

We do have better singles available locally here than the UK though. NPC and Xclutch have singles that will happily take 400kw + at the wheels, which is why I find it ridiculous with OS giken single and twin clutches and how piss weak they are. This is mainly down to having a very light clamping load with their flimsy front cover and pressure plate.

The only decent clutch they make is the R3C and R4C, which is not the sort of clutch you want in a daily driver.

On 10/5/2021 at 12:23 AM, BK said:

Definitely agree the Nismo coppermix twin range drives very nicely and is more than enough for a lot of people's needs.

We do have better singles available locally here than the UK though. NPC and Xclutch have singles that will happily take 400kw + at the wheels, which is why I find it ridiculous with OS giken single and twin clutches and how piss weak they are. This is mainly down to having a very light clamping load with their flimsy front cover and pressure plate.

The only decent clutch they make is the R3C and R4C, which is not the sort of clutch you want in a daily driver.

 

I'm going to order from Japan anyhow so I've got access to the whole lot.

https://www.nengun.com/drivetrain-clutch-kits/#m:1;c:76;g:1

 

 

 

On 05/10/2021 at 5:46 PM, Torques said:

 

I'm going to order from Japan anyhow so I've got access to the whole lot.

https://www.nengun.com/drivetrain-clutch-kits/#m:1;c:76;g:1

 

 

 

Not the whole lot as Xclutch and NPC are Australian. Also RHDjapan will beat Nengun on delivered price everytime if ordering from Japan - check them out.

On 10/5/2021 at 9:20 AM, BK said:

Not the whole lot as Xclutch and NPC are Australian. Also RHDjapan will beat Nengun on delivered price everytime if ordering from Japan - check them out.

Yes, thanks ... I bought from both of them and always compare ..

RHD is also 'helpful' with the customs declaration.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...