Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can someone clarify which of these clutches are rated for more power/torque?

There is conflicting information on the WEB, OSG (JAP) states the TS2 can handle more power, but on other sites OSG states more power handling for the STR2 ...

https://osgiken.co.jp/Clutch/feature.html

 

I've got the STR2 in my R33 but it now needs a refresh, so thinking about alternatives. I'm also disappointed about how quickly the plates wore out.

I'm driving mostly in traffic that requires a lot of clutch actions, OSG stated that the STR2 is more designed for 'hard' operation and might wear out quickly.

 

 

Thanks

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482884-osg-str2cd-vs-ts2cd-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

The TS clutch is the superior clutch to the STR, but in reality they're both pretty shit for longevity. On a GTR anyway the TS2 doesn't last at all but might be a bit better on a rwd. If you have to get one of those two it's the TS2, but there are way better alternatives from Exedy, ORC, hell even a Nismo Coppermix will be miles better to use and last.

If you want it to last ages and be easy to use - carbon twin or triple ATS, but pricey.

Can you get Xclutch twins where you are ? Extremely good value for money with their twins, especially the carbons.

On 10/4/2021 at 1:47 PM, BK said:

The TS clutch is the superior clutch to the STR, but in reality they're both pretty shit (on a GTR anyway, a TS2 doesn't last) - there are way better alternatives from Exedy, ORC, hell even a Nismo Coppermax will be miles better to use and last.

If you want it to last ages and be easy to use - carbon twin or triple ATS, but pricey.

Can you get Xclutch twins where you are ? Extremely good value for money with their twins, especially the carbons.

Cheers ... I'll check the options you've mentioned.

Do you mean the Nismo Coppermix? They rate it @ 309KW / 420HP .. but that seem to be @ the crank(?) ... and would leave me no headroom

https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/catalogue_2021/html5.html#page=95

 

 

 

Edited by Torques

Not the 400ps at engine garbage, only the competition version if Nismo.

You want headroom and ease of use get an ATS carbon twin, you'll NEVER wear that out at your power level - they're 650 - 850 wheel hp rated. Even the ATS spec 1 carbon triple drives better than a TS2 and starts at 1000 wheel hp, but again $$$.

ATS really is on another level compared to everything mentioned.

On 10/4/2021 at 2:21 PM, BK said:

Not the 400ps at engine garbage, only the competition version if Nismo.

You want headroom and ease of use get an ATS carbon twin, you'll NEVER wear that out at your power level - they're 650 - 850 wheel hp rated. Even the ATS spec 1 carbon triple drives better than a TS2 and starts at 1000 wheel hp, but again $$$.

ATS really is on another level compared to everything mentioned.

 

Well, I'm at around 450ish hp at the crank. That's 335KW, so the clutch should ideally hold 550+  (410KW)

My main grief with the STR is that that plates are worn just after 13,000km. I suppose that driving 70% of the mileage in traffic killed it ..

 

 

Here's OSG's response

If your vehicle's power is under the clutch max capacity, then it is often caused by driving too gently on the clutch.

Our clutches were mostly designed for aggressive use in mind, and it is better to be used somewhat rough on occasions.

 

I don't think you can treat a website rating as a guarantee, after all it is torque that challenges a clutch's holding ability not power.

I am running a nismo coppermx twin in my 400awkw stagea with no issues.

On 10/4/2021 at 9:30 PM, Duncan said:

I don't think you can treat a website rating as a guarantee, after all it is torque that challenges a clutch's holding ability not power.

I am running a nismo coppermx twin in my 400awkw stagea with no issues.

Yes, thanks! Couldn't agree more .. not all manufacturers give a torque rating though.

I asked OSG about the rated torque and they wrote back that they don't give that figure (only power)

How's the pedal feel on the NISMO Twin?

 

Definitely agree the Nismo coppermix twin range drives very nicely and is more than enough for a lot of people's needs.

On 05/10/2021 at 8:11 AM, Duncan said:

I've only ever used singles before including in the race car, but the twin feels light underfoot and holds the power it needs to.

We do have better singles available locally here than the UK though. NPC and Xclutch have singles that will happily take 400kw + at the wheels, which is why I find it ridiculous with OS giken single and twin clutches and how piss weak they are. This is mainly down to having a very light clamping load with their flimsy front cover and pressure plate.

The only decent clutch they make is the R3C and R4C, which is not the sort of clutch you want in a daily driver.

On 10/5/2021 at 12:23 AM, BK said:

Definitely agree the Nismo coppermix twin range drives very nicely and is more than enough for a lot of people's needs.

We do have better singles available locally here than the UK though. NPC and Xclutch have singles that will happily take 400kw + at the wheels, which is why I find it ridiculous with OS giken single and twin clutches and how piss weak they are. This is mainly down to having a very light clamping load with their flimsy front cover and pressure plate.

The only decent clutch they make is the R3C and R4C, which is not the sort of clutch you want in a daily driver.

 

I'm going to order from Japan anyhow so I've got access to the whole lot.

https://www.nengun.com/drivetrain-clutch-kits/#m:1;c:76;g:1

 

 

 

On 05/10/2021 at 5:46 PM, Torques said:

 

I'm going to order from Japan anyhow so I've got access to the whole lot.

https://www.nengun.com/drivetrain-clutch-kits/#m:1;c:76;g:1

 

 

 

Not the whole lot as Xclutch and NPC are Australian. Also RHDjapan will beat Nengun on delivered price everytime if ordering from Japan - check them out.

On 10/5/2021 at 9:20 AM, BK said:

Not the whole lot as Xclutch and NPC are Australian. Also RHDjapan will beat Nengun on delivered price everytime if ordering from Japan - check them out.

Yes, thanks ... I bought from both of them and always compare ..

RHD is also 'helpful' with the customs declaration.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which manifold mate? Meanwhile......Mark is wondering how bonnet vents would look on the NC 🤣
    • Actually,  just remembered there should be info in the threads (somewhere) about swapping to a manual steering rack and deleting power steering all together. 
    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
×
×
  • Create New...