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How slow is slow?

 

 

 

Bit to answer your question yes, the shifts are slow as. It isn't a special gearbox, it's a normal slushbox with some buttons, so the result is lacklustre to say the least.

 

 

 

Also 4 speed equals reasonably big rpm drop between gears. What car are you comparing against?

 

 

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The revs should never drop on a down shift there must be some sort of issue? Is the vehicle in limp mode? Are there any warning lights on?  Did you fix the sluggishness you had? They can be made to shift better/faster but the other issues need to be looked at. 

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  On 03/11/2021 at 10:39 PM, Ben C34 said:

How slow is slow?

 

 

 

Bit to answer your question yes, the shifts are slow as. It isn't a special gearbox, it's a normal slushbox with some buttons, so the result is lacklustre to say the least.

 

 

 

Also 4 speed equals reasonably big rpm drop between gears. What car are you comparing against?

 

 

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A good second maybe just over.. so when I’m boosting it from 1st to 2nd I shift before it red lines (with flat foot) it manages to bounce off red line before it changes gears lol. I’m comparing this against my girlfriends m35 and my Toyota ist daily. 

  On 04/11/2021 at 12:49 AM, RBW49N said:

The revs should never drop on a down shift there must be some sort of issue? Is the vehicle in limp mode? Are there any warning lights on?  Did you fix the sluggishness you had? They can be made to shift better/faster but the other issues need to be looked at. 

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I’m talking about upshifting. Cars got no electronic issues at the moment no lights just the AWD light that’s on now and then. How do I make it shift better or faster because it sounds ridiculous sometimes. 
 

As for the sluggishness I think I just got used to the car. 🥲

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  On 06/11/2021 at 7:42 AM, SLIXK said:

Could you explain what that is?

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It's a modification to the valve body of the transmission, a unit which is bolted onto the underside of the transmission after you take the pan and oil pickup tube out. It contains a maze of hydraulic pathways and it affects the pressure and flow to the various clutch actuators. In practical terms it will increase the shift speed, remove the clutch engagement overlap between gears and I think it also increases flow to the cooler. 

Other components may include welsh plugs for blocking some of the accumulator cavities (I think they are called that) which are there to soften engagement of the clutches.

I installed an MV Automatics unit around 8 years ago. It was based on a core return process - they send a complete modified valve body then you send back your original, after which they refund a deposit.

Edited by zoomzoom
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On my box I just put the welsh plugs in and after that the annoying slipping was gone. I don't think there was a huge difference in the response time to manual shifts, but since the rubber band effect was gone, the delay that was left didn't bother much.

Here's a vid from the last track day I did with the auto box. I mainly use 2nd but in the tight right hander I drop it to 1st. Happily drove it for about 60 000kms with the plugs before finally going to stick shift.

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  On 07/11/2021 at 2:26 AM, tsuokun said:

On my box I just put the welsh plugs in and after that the annoying slipping was gone. I don't think there was a huge difference in the response time to manual shifts, but since the rubber band effect was gone, the delay that was left didn't bother much.

Here's a vid from the last track day I did with the auto box. I mainly use 2nd but in the tight right hander I drop it to 1st. Happily drove it for about 60 000kms with the plugs before finally going to stick shift.

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How do I install welsh plugs? I searched it up and it doesn’t look like it has anything to do with the transmission?

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The welsh plugs are used to block off the cylindrical accumulators, which become pretty obvious once you unbolt the valve body. They just hammer in.

Just the mindful there's large springs that drop out when you remove the valve body. Whatever you buy should include instructions on which accumulators are plugged and what springs need to stay in. My valve body kit included the welsh plugs.

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  On 09/11/2021 at 12:24 AM, RBW49N said:

Is it like this?

this is a shift kitted Auto but the  line pressure and shift points are controlled by my haltech. So it’s dependent on how I drive it. If shifts very hard in manual mode 

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Yours shifts smoothly tbh is that in manual mode or auto? .. what specs is your car? 

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  On 14/11/2021 at 11:24 AM, SLIXK said:

Yours shifts smoothly tbh is that in manual mode or auto? .. what specs is your car? 

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It’s in auto mode that was with only moderate throttle opening. It has a shift kit in it as well as a Haltech 2500 replacing the factory ECU so it controls the engine and all of the auto trans functions including shifting and line pressure. It does shift much harder on full throttle and it utilises torque reduction to preserve the gearbox. I will be getting a fully rebuilt gearbox soon so it can handle a bit more. 

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  On 14/11/2021 at 10:44 PM, RBW49N said:

It’s in auto mode that was with only moderate throttle opening. It has a shift kit in it as well as a Haltech 2500 replacing the factory ECU so it controls the engine and all of the auto trans functions including shifting and line pressure. It does shift much harder on full throttle and it utilises torque reduction to preserve the gearbox. I will be getting a fully rebuilt gearbox soon so it can handle a bit more. 

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So then that would be my best bet is to upgrade the ecu.. but would I have to get it tuned for it to run like yours? Also is haltech easy to put in the series 2?

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