RB Reimax Water Pumps - High Flow Designs - Anyone used them?

[Predator1]

On 11/11/2021 at 1:25 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Or wire it to an ECU output and trigger it when it hits a particular temp.

A bit more elegant than flicking a switch 

Yeah, that's what I've done. Not a fan of making holes in my car at all.

[soviet_merlin]

Out of curiosity, what is considered high and out of control temperatures?

For example in my own logs from the last ten or so hours of street driving on my Stagea I'm getting a peak of 97°C degrees and an average of 84°C. No fancy radiator or pumps or crazy power though either.

Edited November 11, 2021 by soviet_merlin

[GTSBoy]

On the stock temperature gauge, if it moves off of the centre at all, it is getting pretty hot.

On a proper coolant temperature gauge, anything over a real 110°C is starting to be concerning.

On an oil temperature gauge, anything over 120°C should prompt you to not use a lot of revs or load. Anything over 130°C is starting to get quite concerning.

[The Mafia]

On 11/11/2021 at 10:25 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Or wire it to an ECU output and trigger it when it hits a particular temp.

A bit more elegant than flicking a switch 

in the BNR34, it's wired to the ECU. I have the Link ECU triggering this fan when required. 

In the BCNR33, they are wired through pressure switch and it isn't wired to the ECU and needs a fair bit of modification to the wiring setup to make it work. 

Going to make some changes and see if I can get it under control. If not I will have to look at getting a proper electric fan shroud made up as the spal3000 I had kept it under control on the 35+ degree days here. 

On my BCNR33 race car, I had issues with temp creep after 5-6-7 laps. All I did was change the intercooler from a 15 year old HKS to a custom made A.R.E intercooler, and the temp difference between the top and bottom hose (I have sensors on both) went from 5 degrees to 15 degrees. 

I think we are blocking the radiators significantly with these big intercoolers we are installing. I asked ARE for one that had more surface area but bigger spacing so allow more air through. It worked really well. 

On the BNR34, I have a PWR rad and Intercooler. I think the intercooler is blocking quite a bit of the airflow. I didn't have this issue with the stock intercooler. 

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

On 11/11/2021 at 2:03 PM, The Mafia said:

In the BCNR33, they are wired through pressure switch and it isn't wired to the ECU and needs a fair bit of modification to the wiring setup to make it work. 

You could run a spare output out to the RHS fuse/relay box and trigger the fan relay there.

On ECR33 that fan is only triggered by the radiator temp switch, aka the overheat fan. I've just wired a diode between the AC relay and fan relay, so when the AC is on the fan also turns on for additional cooling.

Tempted to repin the TPS wiring (since I'm running DBW) and set it so that fan is ECU controlled with my parameters.

[r32-25t]

I’ve also done the diode for the ac fan and compressor relays and it made the aircon so much more efficient. 

i had a mishimoto radiator, nismo thermostat, Nissan water pump and genuine fan and clutch. I was able to drive my car on a 40°+ day with the aircon going and the temperature gauge stayed solid at halfway 

[Predator1]

On 10/11/2021 at 1:00 PM, Predator1 said:

I looked at those for my build but didnt steered away. I figured that irrespective how much a wp flows, it really depends on how effecient the radiator/shroud combo is.

Not to derail the topic, but I personally ran the GKTech fan in my rb30, and it was utter SHIT. Swapped it with the stock clutch fan and all my water temp issues went away.

Time for a slight update - I replaced the radiator with a Koyorad 48mm unit, and also I noticed that my stock viscous coupling was covered in silicony looking crap. I figured my coupling has shat itself. I bought a 2nd hand unit which seemed to be better, and have now stuck the GKTech fan back on(Was using oem fan before). The temp diff is night and day for me. Sorry to bash the Gktech fan before, but I can hear it road when it locks up, and temps are far more stable. I think during winter, I'll replace the wp to a reimax unit when i pull my motor out.

Edited February 11, 2022 by Predator1

[BK]

On 11/11/2021 at 1:26 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You could run a spare output out to the RHS fuse/relay box and trigger the fan relay there.

On ECR33 that fan is only triggered by the radiator temp switch, aka the overheat fan. I've just wired a diode between the AC relay and fan relay, so when the AC is on the fan also turns on for additional cooling.

Tempted to repin the TPS wiring (since I'm running DBW) and set it so that fan is ECU controlled with my parameters.

 

On 11/11/2021 at 1:40 PM, r32-25t said:

I’ve also done the diode for the ac fan and compressor relays and it made the aircon so much more efficient. 

i had a mishimoto radiator, nismo thermostat, Nissan water pump and genuine fan and clutch. I was able to drive my car on a 40°+ day with the aircon going and the temperature gauge stayed solid at halfway 

I had it come on with a diode too as an auto sparky just did it when I got the ac gassed, but I've just removed it as it didnt want the thermo to be on at 130+ kph with the aircon on, but wanted thermo on with aircon at lower speeds. You don't need to wire anything to do that with a Haltech Elite.

Just unplug the radiator temp switch and bridge the temp switch ecu connector permanently. On a factory ECU this would make the fan run permanently as the ECU pin is permanently grounded, but not on an Elite as it only grounds that ECU pin via the thermo logic parameters set. After that the ECU can turn on and off the fan with whatever multiple parameters you have for the thermo fan programmed (A/C on, cut in / cut out speeds and cut in / out temp )

Works like this on both our 32s with the Elites. Note this is for RB26 but I'm pretty sure the 25 is the same setup.

[r32-25t]

Thanks mate mine is set for the fan to come on with the ac but it never did and I ended up doing the diode mod, now that I know that I’ll remove it and set it up like that 

[BK]

On 11/02/2022 at 12:03 PM, r32-25t said:

Thanks mate mine is set for the fan to come on with the ac but it never did and I ended up doing the diode mod, now that I know that I’ll remove it and set it up like that 

Yeah it won't come on with the ECU settings if the radiator thermo switch is still plugged in because the switch would have to close first to ground the ECU pin - and they don't close unless your coolant temp is pretty high with temps above 95deg C or something ridiculous like that.

The plug is spade terminals so you can make up a nice little jumper to plug in without cutting anything too. 👍

[Predator1]

Right, so I've decided to bite the bullet and buy the Reimax Gr.A waterpump.. not cheap but outflows any other waterpump I can find, inc ewp's. This thing flows 250L compared to 160 stock. 

https://www.rhdjapan.com/reimax-gr-a-high-flow-water-pump-bnr32-bcnr33-bnr34-wgnc34.html

I'm sure that the waterpump that I have must have 6 blades(or is an N1 pump), as at low speed/idle my temps aren't as good as it should. This is on my built 3.2.

Does anyone know how the flow rates are measured? ie at what RPM?

 

Edited September 1, 2022 by Predator1

[The Mafia]

I should probably update my experience too. 

I stuck with the stock water pump and changed my Intercooler to a custom made ARE brand with better airflow, then installed a massive oil cooler. It's like 900 x 300 I think? 

Now the Water and oil temps won't go over 85 degrees even when doing constant laps. 

Seems Oil coolers are where it's at.

 
 

[Predator1]

How was your idle ect temps?

My oil temps are super stable.

[The Mafia]

hey mate, they were stupid low. if I turn on the thermos, it will pull the temps down below 70. 

Oil coolers make a HUGE difference on the RBs, But you need a massive one. Those little 16 row ones don't do shit. I had one previously and it did nothing. 

But, I left the 16 row one mounted and piped my transmission to it, and now my transmission runs cool as hell. (Holinger 6 Speed sequential) 

[Predator1]

So I just got my waterpump, and externally it looks stock, but the blades seem to be pretty big. Here are some pics. I will go measure/compare this weekend and put more pics up, as I havent found any other mention of this pump being used ever, soo might come in handy. Must say, it feels rather heavy/beefy. The bearings are replaceable too, so theoretically you could use this pump for a LONG time.

 

 

[SiR_RB]

On 9/14/2022 at 7:01 PM, Predator1 said:

So I just got my waterpump, and externally it looks stock, but the blades seem to be pretty big. Here are some pics. I will go measure/compare this weekend and put more pics up, as I havent found any other mention of this pump being used ever, soo might come in handy. Must say, it feels rather heavy/beefy. The bearings are replaceable too, so theoretically you could use this pump for a LONG time.

 

 

Looks great 

 

how long till it’s on the car running, keep us posted with before and after results 

[SiR_RB]

Anyone here running a pwr 55mm cross flow radiator

[bcozican]

1 hour ago, SiR_RB said:

Anyone here running a pwr 55mm cross flow radiator

Literally just put one in havent run it yet. Track car though

[SiR_RB]

10 minutes ago, bcozican said:

Literally just put one in havent run it yet. Track car though

Awesome 

how was fitment as she’s a big one !

 

[bcozican]

1 hour ago, SiR_RB said:

Awesome 

how was fitment as she’s a big one !

 

Yeah tis big 100% fine and drop in... i dont run a clutch fan though