Jump to content
SAU Community

Restoring R32 ECU with Mines tune?

weikleenget
 Share

Recommended Posts

weikleenget Explorer

weikleenget

Posted
Posted

Hi all, as the title suggests my R32 GTR has an ECU with a Mines tune which worked really well in summer and was a ton of fun, but now that the cold weather has set in, it’s running very rich and won’t get above 2500rpm without the throttle retarding. 

I understand that they epoxied the RAM to the OEM board with this tune so resetting is tough but I’m wondering if anyone knows a specialist who can revert it back to OEM settings?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482998-restoring-r32-ecu-with-mines-tune/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

To answer directly, no, I don't know how they physically achieved the reflash of the ECU. 

However, the change in tune from factory is minor and unlikely to be your issue. If it is misfiring as it comes on boost it is likely to be some issue other than the tune. What boost is it hitting just before it starts to cut out (might be overboosting due to a boost control issue), or perhaps just an air leak somewhere.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 11/9/2021 at 6:51 AM, weikleenget said:

Hi all, as the title suggests my R32 GTR has an ECU with a Mines tune which worked really well in summer and was a ton of fun, but now that the cold weather has set in, it’s running very rich and won’t get above 2500rpm without the throttle retarding. 

I understand that they epoxied the RAM to the OEM board with this tune so resetting is tough but I’m wondering if anyone knows a specialist who can revert it back to OEM settings?

Thanks!

I doubt you can revert, removing the epoxy would probably damage the board beyond repair. I would just try and source an OEM ECU with the stock map.

weikleenget Explorer

weikleenget

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 11/9/2021 at 1:46 PM, Duncan said:

To answer directly, no, I don't know how they physically achieved the reflash of the ECU. 

However, the change in tune from factory is minor and unlikely to be your issue. If it is misfiring as it comes on boost it is likely to be some issue other than the tune. What boost is it hitting just before it starts to cut out (might be overboosting due to a boost control issue), or perhaps just an air leak somewhere.

At any amount of boost and the throttle is almost completely retarded, and the car starts shuddering. It’s gotten significantly worse as the weather gets colder, and wasn’t an issue at all above 70*. I don’t think I have a misfire, had a compression test done and they tested all the cylinders everything was fine. Just happens when boost comes on in the cold

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
On 11/10/2021 at 7:53 AM, joshuaho96 said:

I doubt you can revert, removing the epoxy would probably damage the board beyond repair. I would just try and source an OEM ECU with the stock map.

It's just an EEPROM. Epoxy isn't some magical substance. Anyone sufficiently fearless with a small Dremel burr would be able to remove epoxy from around the Mines chip legs sufficient to be able to get the chip out and a stocker (or more sensibly, a Nistune board) back in its place.

Having said that, a Mines ECU is essentially a bin job. They should never have existed.

On 11/10/2021 at 12:05 PM, weikleenget said:

At any amount of boost and the throttle is almost completely retarded,

Throttle doesn't retard. What exactly are you saying?

What does the boost gauge say? What is the fuel pressure? What is the AFM voltage at the time?

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 11/9/2021 at 5:58 PM, GTSBoy said:

It's just an EEPROM. Epoxy isn't some magical substance. Anyone sufficiently fearless with a small Dremel burr would be able to remove epoxy from around the Mines chip legs sufficient to be able to get the chip out and a stocker (or more sensibly, a Nistune board) back in its place.

Having said that, a Mines ECU is essentially a bin job. They should never have existed.

Almost guaranteed I would grind into the board trying that and scrap it, maybe some people have steadier hands but I assume most people aren't that precise with a dremel. Someone will surely buy it just for the Mine's name, so better to just sell it and get a stock ECU which everyone seems to get rid of for a standalone these days.

weikleenget Explorer

weikleenget

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 11/9/2021 at 7:58 PM, GTSBoy said:

It's just an EEPROM. Epoxy isn't some magical substance. Anyone sufficiently fearless with a small Dremel burr would be able to remove epoxy from around the Mines chip legs sufficient to be able to get the chip out and a stocker (or more sensibly, a Nistune board) back in its place.

Having said that, a Mines ECU is essentially a bin job. They should never have existed.

Throttle doesn't retard. What exactly are you saying?

What does the boost gauge say? What is the fuel pressure? What is the AFM voltage at the time?

I’ll have to check fuel pressure and AFM voltage but boost won’t go positive. What I mean is the throttle loses all response above 2500rpm, pedal turns to mush and the car shakes

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
On 11/10/2021 at 1:51 AM, weikleenget said:

...and won’t get above 2500rpm without the throttle retarding.

Isn't this a symptom of a problem in the AFM? So, maybe the colder weather has caused a gap to open up in a broken solder joint.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jumbotron
      Parts required for 4:11 diff gears in an R34 GTR Vspec (A-LSD)

      By Jumbotron · Posted

      Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • njdgomez23
      How to fix centre console latch.

      By njdgomez23 · Posted

      After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • marni
      I need more than help to finish my R33

      By marni · Posted

      Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • r32-25t
      Attesa pump mount options / ideas? R32 gtr style.

      By r32-25t · Posted

      From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Manual conversion Speedometer

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...