R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

[TurboTapin]

@r32-25t @Dose Pipe Sutututu

I would also second a 6466! Maybe go with the .84 rear if you're not shooting for the stars.  I've comfortably driven street cars with a lot more lag. 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

@TurboTapin Will be curious to see how your results are like, but yeah I don't need more power lol...

I need more seat time and better brakes lol

[Lithium]

On 14/03/2023 at 10:35 AM, r32-25t said:

No EFR8474

ftfy

[TurboTapin]

Nothing very interesting to report. I've just been street tuning and breaking it in slowly. I'd like to drive it around another 1000km's or so and do another oil change before hitting the dyno. This has given me time to fix a few issues that have come up though.

1. My intake cam was leaking oil ever so slightly. Traced it back to the cam seal, it was completely torn... I must of given it one to many wacks during install. Surprised it wasn't leaking more.

2. My VCT cam gear decided to make a god awful sound for roughly 10 minutes while driving/idling, not long after removing it to replace the above mentioned cam seal. Has not come back and VCT is still operating properly. I'll keep an eye on it. I had read this occasionally happens but I wish I could better understand exactly what causes the noise. 

3. When originally popping in my pilot bushing, I noticed it was slightly looser then what I'm use to seeing. At the time I went ahead and popped the transmission on anyways. About three weeks ago, a realization came to mind of what if while installing my trans, the input shaft gripped the side of the pilot bearing a tad and drove it in further then it should be. I pondered for a week and finally after realizing I was losing sleep over it, I pulled the trans. Hold and behold, it was sitting as deep as it could in my crank. The input shaft was only making contact on roughly 4mm of the bushing and was already eating it up. I'm very happy I pulled it off... I drove in a new slightly larger pilot bushing with retaining compound to be extra safe. 

By the way, this probably goes without saying but the low end torque between a 2.8 and my old 20det is night and day... Having ran a supercharged 5.5L just prior, the 20det was very underwhelming under 4-5K. I  know I've also mentioned it before but god damn double plate clutches sound terrible... Makes a spun bearing sound fantastic. Lucky it only sounds horrid when in low gear/low rpm. 

[Duncan]

hahaha true, they sound like the car is falling apart rattling around

how was the wear on the spiggot bush that was not engaging correctly? good choice to fix it but I'm wondering if it would have been OK....

[r32-25t]

I must be so used to the sound of a multiplate clutch that I think it’s normal and don’t even notice it anymore 

[TurboTapin]

On 5/10/2023 at 9:46 PM, Duncan said:

hahaha true, they sound like the car is falling apart rattling around

how was the wear on the spiggot bush that was not engaging correctly? good choice to fix it but I'm wondering if it would have been OK....

Due to such little surface area between the input shaft and pilot bushing, it had already began chewing it up. I don't believe It would have lasted much longer then 6 months. 

Haha I remember the first time I started the car and pushed in my clutch pefal and said ohh that's not so bad.... Then I drove it and first heard the lovely chatter. My neighbor's must think the cars broken. 

[TurboTapin]

Not much of an update. My differential has been sitting at my local shop since the beginning of June with no end in site... Dyno was supposed to be on June 28th but that has now come and gone. I dropped it off for a Nismo LSD and Speedtek 3.33 Final drive install. I should have just done it myself.

Once they took it apart, they told me up to 4 weeks lead time for the remaining parts I did not have (Pinion bearings and Shims). This seemed plausible at the time and I didn't feel like arguing... after checking with Nissan well I could of had it all within a week maybe two due to requiring the bearings to be installed before measuring and ordering shims. Now it seems the tech working on my differential is on personal leave until July 10th and they have no further information for me. I'm not thrilled to say the least... 

While the car sits in the garage, I did take the opportunity to correct a few things that were bugging me. 

I had originally installed my BOV very close to my methanal injection nozzles. I did not think of it at the time, but this would more then likely lead to methanal being blown off everywhere in my engine bay. I moved the BOV to the OEM GTR location so it's downstream from my nozzles.

I also changed my IAT sensor bung placement to be on more at an angle. It was filling up with methanal and not draining out as I had originally hoped. I also changed my oil and filter again. First time after first start up and this time around 450km's on the engine. 

Lastly I installed a 25psi cut in/10psi cut out pressure switch into my meth feed line for added safety. I now trigger my meth correction tables with Meth Controller/Pump run = 1, Meth Controller no fault = 1 and Pressure switch = 1.

[TurboTapin]

Well it's a Christmas miracle! I finally got my differential back, 16 weeks later.... I chronicled it in another thread but long story short, first shop took it apart and it took them 2.5 months to finally inform me they have no idea wtf they're doing. Just to recap, it's a Speedtek 3.33 billet final gear and Nismo GT LSD.

They brought it to another shop that I know well from way back and it took them a month and they apologized a few times and stated they had to prioritize some promod clients with blown motors. I appreciated the honesty after dealing with the other place... all they did was spew lies. 

While the car was out over summer, I took the opportunity to work on a few non critical items. I replaced my front tension rods as the pillow balls were just about due. I removed the entirety of my hicas system. I was running the two original 5/16" fuel lines as feed and I had added a 3/8 aluminum line for return. I went ahead and removed that aluminum line and used one of my old hicas lines going to the back. I left the other hicas line as well as a spare. Finessed my WMI system and a few other little things. 

I'll more then likely pop it back in tomorrow night. I'll be happy to drive it after all this time. I just need to schedule a day for an alignment and dyno session. 

 

                     

Edited September 15, 2023 by TurboTapin

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Woohoo, 3rd gear skids 

[TurboTapin]

On 9/14/2023 at 9:13 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Woohoo, 3rd gear skids 

Haha fun times ahead! I got around to installing it this morning. I've driven it twice now for roughly 30 minutes and letting it cool a few hours in-between. The diff is whining rather loud on acceleration, no noise on decel. It gets substantially worst past 60kmh. 

I contacted Speedtek to see if the noise is possibly normal during break in as I've only ever ran OEM ring and pinion sets. I'm not to hopeful though. I'm presuming pinion depth issues, but I hope I'm wrong. I'll be pissed if It has to come off again... 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

The whine does sound a bit concerning, hopefully it's normal for the speedtek gears

[TurboTapin]

The whine did end up being an issue. After driving the car again around 60-80km/h, the sound was deafening. Popped the diff back off and dropped it off at my assemblers to verify. Took them awhile to figure out why it was making noise, but they finally realized the crown wheel had pretty bad run out.

After many weeks of back and forth with Speedtek, they finally agreed to ship out a replacement. That technically should have been latest yesterday, but I still don't have a tracking number... so I'll continue to poke them and wait. 

I need to put the car in storage no later than Nov 30th due to winter tire laws. I'm hoping I can get the parts and the diff reassembled before then. Unless a miracle happens, I also think it's fair to say I'm not getting this thing on a dyno this year. I am considering renting a trailer to haul it to a dyno in the winter months if needed though. 

Edited October 31, 2023 by TurboTapin

[TurboTapin]

I received the replacement gear and pinion from Speedtek. My diff assembler is currently working on it. I've been having an intrusive thought of replacing my gen2 6466 with a Next Gen 6670. They're sales pitch is it's rated for 1100hp and spools like a gen2 6466. 

The car will be sitting in the garage until spring anyways... I'm not 100% sold on the idea yet but leaning towards it. Even if it does spool a little later, I would welcome it for torque management as my current gen2 6466 spools much faster then originally anticipated. 

Anyone looking for a well priced gen2 6466 with ~500km's at low boost ? 😅

Edited December 6, 2023 by TurboTapin

[TurboTapin]

My assembler finally got around to my diff on Friday and wouldn't you know, there's still issues with the new parts sent by Speedtek...

It seems the pinion gear has bad runout with the shaft itself. He's going to pull it apart again today and confirm with the shaft on a V block in the small chance it's actually a pinion bearing manufacturing defect but I'm not holding my breath.

If this is the case, I'll push for a refund and look elsewhere. As I'm sure this process will take months yet again, I'm going to go pickup another stock r32 vlsd locally and run that this summer so I can at least get the car on a dyno and enjoy it this summer. 

[TurboTapin]

My assembler called me yesterday to state he's taking the week off. (He's on the verge of retirement). He also unfortunately told me that the next time he works on my diff will be the last as it's becoming a waist of time for him.

With this in mind, I purchased a 4.08 Nissan ring and pinion and another new pinion bearing. So whether it's the pinion or bearing, next time he touches the diff he should have all the replacement parts needed. My Speedtek was a 3.3, so 4.08 isn't the final drive I was really aiming for with my CD009 but I should have a bit more gear then the original 4.3. 

I also bought a complete used low km S13 VLSD 4.08 diff as a backup... Just in case. Winter tire laws are over here in 3 weeks and I'll be damned if I'm not driving my car by then. 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Man you're not having much luck with the diff ☹️

Would a 350Z diff conversion be a viable solution? At least you'll have the right ratio, and heaps of available parts from your US neighbour.

[TurboTapin]

Unlike the US, we've had skylines here for decades. Parts are somewhat easily found. I also have a new Nismo 1.5way LSD which wouldn't fit in a 350z diff. It would end up costing me a lot more with no little benefit.

If it ends up confirmed that the Speedtek parts are the issue, I might be making a flight over to Australia for the pleasure of tossing the parts through their window. Reading up on them more and more, I see I should have avoided them from the beginning. 

Edited February 27 by TurboTapin

[robbo_rb180]

Thats so frustrating to hear.
A friends been through a heap of issues with his speedtek gearset. The guy is still making rubbish and stuffing people around for over 10+ years now.

Why don't/didn't you use a s14/s15 3.69 ratio and just get tailshaft modified if you don't already have an ABS long nose diff? 

[TurboTapin]

8 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Thats so frustrating to hear.
A friends been through a heap of issues with his speedtek gearset. The guy is still making rubbish and stuffing people around for over 10+ years now.

Why don't/didn't you use a s14/s15 3.69 ratio and just get tailshaft modified if you don't already have an ABS long nose diff? 

That's unfortunate to hear, yet I'm not surprised :/. As for the S14 final drive, I don't want to lose out on another summer. My assembler wants the diff out and so do I. 

If the 4.08 ends up being a pain, i'll deal with it next winter. There's also another Australian company that makes R32 billet final drives. I can't remember the name though.