R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

[Komdotkom]

3 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

That's unfortunately not an option due to the short length I need (~50mm). I've always ran submersible rubber hose without any issues. It is also what is in there from factory. Thanks for the tip though!

 

I feel like it's something in the fuel, 10 years ago we never had an issue but now everything rubber seems to fail quickly whether it's E85 or 98.

You can use a longer section and just put a loop in it, looks a bit ghetto but doesn't swell up.

500kw should be pretty exciting on the street.

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, MBS206 said:

It's not even really flywheel power.

They might assume it and state a flywheel power, but really, hub dynos are measuring it at the hub.

 

Reality of hub vs roller, is the change in inertia, as wheel is gone, and as you said, removing a slip from tyre to roller.

 

Anyone measuring power at the wheel hub, can not claim flywheel power, as we don't know what the losses are in the drive line, especially on cars that aren't brand new.

Yuh, which is why I said it is "flywheel minus drivetrain losses", which is essentially exactly what it is. Presuming you might lose up to 10% (for real) in the drivetrain, you get somewhat closer to flywheel power with a hub dyno than what you measure on roller when you are losing that same drivetrain loss PLUS the somewhat larger tyre-roller loss.

Inertia can be discounted when measuring steady state, which remains an option with either type (unless stupid US inertia roller type, which should never have existed).

[TurboTapin]

I've been busy doing a lot of little things on the car. I had purchased one of every ball joint, tie rod, etc. for the front to replace everything when I first purchased the car 6 or so years ago.

Whatever I hadn't replaced at the time, I decided to do now even if some of the parts still looked fairly good. That came out to the right side kingpin bearings, both tie rod ends and left side lower control arm ball joint. Did another oil change and sent off a sample as well.

I've been working on setting up another VSS. The Haltech GPS has been sucking away my soul. The delay is unbearable. I ended up popping off the rear stub ABS rings off some GTR stubs I had laying around and installing those on my stubs. I had to grind every other tooth off so that it met sensor specs (10mm gap between teeth). I made a small bracket that attached it to a diff bolt. I just have to wire it in this week. 

It was also the first time I've ever pulled off a shrink fit with only a propane torch. Slipped right on with gravity. It's thin enough to get rather toasty.

 

As for why I haven't wired it in yet, I've been waiting for the IC7 firmware update that allows it to be used as I/O. I'm going to toss my I/O Expander and wire it into the IC7... I wanted to get it all done at the same time. Update came out, unfortunately it's rather buggy. I had to turn off I/O Expansion as I kept losing my Canbus connection on the IC7 with it on. I've never really been impressed with Haltechs firmware support as every version always breaks something, but it seems to have gotten worst over the last few months. 

Oh yea and still nothing from Speedtek...

Edited July 23 by TurboTapin

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Farken Craptek

[TurboTapin]

So I've been working on the car a fair bit, doing a lot of little things. Preparing some projects for this winter, as I'm taking 13 weeks off very soon for parental leave. Have my second kid on the way and he's due any week now. I'll need something to do while he's sleeping. I also usually take the car off the road in about a month and a half, until sometime around the end of March. 

Still making slight adjustments to my tune, as the cold weather settles in. I've also had to start dropping boost and tire pressure as the weather gets cooler. It's getting very swirly at highway speeds. I drop to 20psi at 20C and 18psi spring pressure at 10C IAT's. I'm currently on 255 Falcon RT660's, but may look into running 275's next summer. They will fit, but barely. Might have to raise the rear a tad. 

I'll start redoing my exhaust Monday, as I have the week off. I currently have an oval center muffler and cannon rear muffler. I've been told more then once from people behind me that my rear bumper is going to catch on fire one day. Seems I blow 5-10 second flames after doing a pull. No clue if that's the WMI, as I've never been able to do that before with other cars. I wanted to angle my tip down a tad so flames are pointed down and away from bumper. I also wanted to take the opportunity to reconfigure my exhaust line. I'm going to move my oval muffler to the rear with a pie cut angled tip and put in a new smaller round muffler in the center. I've rocked cannon mufflers on this car for the last few years and want to transition back the oval muffler look. I've also been looking for a stainless project to try out the new solar flux I bought. I'll post pictures on Monday, should be able to wrap that up in a day. 

I'm also picking up another rear subframe this week. I wanted a second so that I could modify one with a gk tech anti squat reduction kit during the winter, and still be able to keep the car a roller so I can back it out of the garage if needed. I will also be caging it this winter. More on that later.

Lastly, Speedtek still hasn't given me diddly squat. Every week for the last 4 weeks, they have been saying next week. They told me Friday to expect a shipping label that day to ship my two bad sets of ring and pinions back and nothing. There's definitely been more contact since I started destroying their company any chance I get on Facebook, but it's still just words without action. 

 

Edited September 29 by TurboTapin

[TurboTapin]

Wrapped up my catback modifications this morning. I'm loving the pie cut turn down and oval muffler.