R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

[GTSBoy]

57 minutes ago, TurboTapin said:

These remote IO boxes should be marketed for only non-critical I/O.

I get that impression already from various youtube vids whenever the I/O expanders are discussed. MCM, for example.

[TurboTapin]

32 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

I get that impression already from various youtube vids whenever the I/O expanders are discussed. MCM, for example.

Yea I also was under this impression from various sources, but I figured it applied only to high speed I/O. I was not expecting any impact on such a slow input. Haltech should have an official statement of limitations or comm rates for these. 

[TurboTapin]

I had quite the scare last night. I was on the highway just toying around with an Audi. Right after an extended WOT pull, I lost all power. I cruised to a stop on the side of the highway and realized I had no fuel pressure. I keyed on/off a few times and could hear both pumps priming but pressure was still non existent.

When you need a towing on a highway in Quebec, it's an automatic call to the provincial police. They don't mess around, they'll gladly destroy your car to get it off the highway asap. I pulled my bumper off as quickly as I could as to not have it destroyed getting it onto the truck. I got lucky as the tow driver was a car guy. He entertained the police while I finished up popping my bumper off and sticking it in my window. As we started taking off, the police drove by the tow driver to tell him we couldn't leave with the bumper sticking out the window. He pulled off on the first exit he saw, did a u turn and got right back on the highway in the direction of home lol. 

With no leak insight, the only thing I could think of was a torn FPR diaphragm or a popped hose inside my fuel tank. This morning on removal of my Radium twin pump hanger, one pump hose was completely shredded and the other was on the verge of the same fate. Both hoses had swelled to double their size... I have no idea how I ended up not using submersible hose but clearly that's what happened. To make things even worst, Radium supplies submersible hose with the hanger... So either they supplied the wrong hose or I had the wrong hose laying around when I assembled it. 

Looking over logs, my fuel pressure dropped to 0 roughly 10 seconds after a WOT pull. I was cruising and I'm confident the motors fine. Had that happened 10 seconds earlier, I'd more then likely be pulling the motor out. New hose arrives tomorrow, I'll put it back together then. 

[soviet_merlin]

Oof, glad that it seems have gone much better than it could have.

I have seen some pretty terrible tow truck handling just as a bystander. Zero fvcks given and no regard for the cars at all.

Also broke down with fuel pump issues the other week as the wiring was on its way out. Roadside assistance guy used to have a Skyline and was looking at Stageas on the market. The tow truck driver also used to own a high powered Skyline and was telling stories about that. Apparently too fast to have any issues with being pulled over...

Makes all the difference dealing with people who actually know their cars and care.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

1 hour ago, TurboTapin said:

have no idea how I ended up not using submersible hose but clearly that's what happened

Haha.. classic 

(Also guilty).

[TurboTapin]

Anyone here a submersible fuel hose expert? I pulled my hanger out again for unrelated issues and noticed the hose I popped on last week has already swollen. This is Gates 27093 submersible hose. I've waiting on a response from Gates, but this surely can't be normal? This is on pump gas, not E85. 

Is swelling a tad possibly normal?

I've also been fighting with my power steering belt.... I've now tossed one and killed two. I just realigned my pulleys again, hoping this time it stays on. It doesn't like high rpm. 

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

It shouldn't swell like that, (just looked it up) it should say SAE J30R10

 

[TurboTapin]

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

It shouldn't swell like that, (just looked it up) it should say SAE J30R10

 

Gates is saying the same thing. They think I have the right bag with the wrong hose in it... I bought it off amazon, I'm thinking someone pulled a good old swapparoo and returned normal hose. Well looks like she's coming back out... Not very lucky with this hose lol. 

[soviet_merlin]

Please be careful around ordering things from Amazon. Look up Amazon item commingling, Chinese fakes being sold as genuine, returned items scams and similar. There are whole businesses around selling cheap shit as genuine on Amazon. Can't trust Amazon.

This is one aspect where I'm so glad that Australia is an island out in the middle of nowhere. Amazon doesn't have nearly the same foothold here as it does in your part of the world. It is much easier and way more common here to order things from manufacturers directly. And avoid many of those issues.

F^ck Amazon. Seriously.

/end of rant

I'm glad you spotted it before it turned serious.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

44 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:

F^ck Amazon

It's great for shelf stable groceries and home stuff.

Cheaper than Woolies/Coles, I love it.

Need shit paper? Next day delivery, need stuff to cook with? Next day delivery.

[GTSBoy]

Amazon is shit fight. If I need anything from China I just go straight to the source (Ali etc). If I need something genuine, I go to where I know it is genuine.

I don't think I have ever bought anything from Amazon. Any time I have seen something that someone bought on Amazon and decided that I wanted one too....I went and found it somewhere else for the same or less money.

[TurboTapin]

First time I ever have issues with Amazon, but my wife often tells me to keep an eye out for fakes. It finally got me. I wrapped up the conversation with Gates. The gentlemen I was talking to seemed to hate his job but the response time on their technical support is outstanding. He stated that the hose is marked with some variation of "SAE J30R10" but that if you only purchase a 1 foot length like I did, it is possible to get a cut between markings and have a blank hose. To no ones surprise, he stated the swelling and "gummyness" isn't normal and to replace/buy from somewhere else (He mentioned NAPA). I'll toss a small end of the new one in gas for a few days before pulling the hanger out again, just to be safe. 

Hose should arrive Monday. For those running multiple pump in tank hangers, you know the joys of getting them out and back in. I'm surprised I haven't destroyed my level float yet. 

Lastly once I wrap all of this up, I'm planning on hitting the dyno again in 2 weeks while I'm on vacation. I realized recently that my VCT is set to turn off at 5000RPM. I'm surprised it wasn't increased while I was on the dyno last. I'm expecting I can increase it to ~6500RPM, if not more. Should hopefully get another 15-20kw out of it. I also want him to revisit my knock thresholds. I'm occasionally getting false knock around 3000rpm. 

Edited June 8 by TurboTapin

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

23 minutes ago, TurboTapin said:

realized recently that my VCT is set to turn off at 5000RPM. I'm surprised it wasn't increased while I was on the dyno last. I'm expecting I can increase it to ~6500RPM, if not more

It's generally best practise to run 1x run without VCT enabled, then 1x run enabled till redline.

Overlay the two torque graphs and you'll find the desired RPM to turn off VCT.

Sometimes, it might be even worthwhile turning off VCT earlier control torque/cylinder pressure and using VCT purely to spool the turbo.

[TurboTapin]

On 6/7/2024 at 9:45 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

It's generally best practise to run 1x run without VCT enabled, then 1x run enabled till redline.

Overlay the two torque graphs and you'll find the desired RPM to turn off VCT.

Sometimes, it might be even worthwhile turning off VCT earlier control torque/cylinder pressure and using VCT purely to spool the turbo.

Your response is extremely similar to what someone on the Haltech tuning tips Facebook page answered me. I take it you're also on there haha. Dyno is booked for June 27th and that's exactly what I'll be doing. I also realized I never setup a pulse width adder table so I went and did that last night. Made a fair bit of fueling difference in low load areas. 

I sorted out my power steering belt woes. It was an alignment issue and it has now survived multiple instances of abuse that would have killed it prior. I also changed my fuel pump hose. The hose I replaced looks nothing like the legit gates hose I received. Real hose is actually 5/16" and is labelled properly. Amazon refunded me but has been giving me grief about my nasty review I'm trying to leave... I keep having to modify it for acceptance. I want to make sure the point gets across to others. 

Last issue I want to deal with soon is the slight vibration I get in my steering wheel with my GKTech Spacers in front. My annoyance has grown and I'm at a point where I want it resolved. I've tried everything I can come up with like clean spacers thoroughly, tighten in star pattern, retorque, have wheels rebalanced 4-5x with a variety of machines (2x with a Hunter elite). I've also taken the spacers off and remounted multiple times just in case. 

I'm starting to think my GKtech spacers are at fault. I'll pop a wheel off and toss a dial indicator on tomorrow to verify runout and parallelism. 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

That may or may not be me that replied 😅

[Komdotkom]

Rubber based in tank fuel line never lasts.

You need this stuff, I've never had a failure 

https://www.efihardware.com/products/c404/E85-Fuel-Hose-and-Pipe

[TurboTapin]

16 hours ago, Komdotkom said:

Rubber based in tank fuel line never lasts.

You need this stuff, I've never had a failure 

https://www.efihardware.com/products/c404/E85-Fuel-Hose-and-Pipe

That's unfortunately not an option due to the short length I need (~50mm). I've always ran submersible rubber hose without any issues. It is also what is in there from factory. Thanks for the tip though!

 

I was back on the dyno again today to play with VCT rpm and knock thresholds. In the end, the best gains were with keeping VCT on until redline. I gained 15rwkw at the top end. I'm now sitting at 478rwkw @27psi on a mustang dyno. For science and not for bragging rights (I'm full of shit), next time I'm bored, I'll visit one of the many mainline hub dynos around me to do a pull. I'm confident it would be 500+rwkw on a hub dyno. 

Tuner once again mentioned I'm leaving a lot of power on the table due to my rev limit/hydro lifters. I may or may not entertain going solids at some point in the not so distant future. I also don't really need any more power for the street... it's already more then enough to kill myself.  

 

Edited June 28 by TurboTapin

[Duncan]

nice, that should get you to the shops and back ok

[GTSBoy]

13 minutes ago, TurboTapin said:

I'm confident it would be 500+rwkw on a hub dyno

With the obvious caveat that hub dynos are not telling you rw power. They are telling you flywheel power minus drivetrain losses. The largest losses in power readings at the wheel are, of course, at the tyre-roller interface.

[MBS206]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

With the obvious caveat that hub dynos are not telling you rw power. They are telling you flywheel power minus drivetrain losses. The largest losses in power readings at the wheel are, of course, at the tyre-roller interface.

It's not even really flywheel power.

They might assume it and state a flywheel power, but really, hub dynos are measuring it at the hub.

 

Reality of hub vs roller, is the change in inertia, as wheel is gone, and as you said, removing a slip from tyre to roller.

 

Anyone measuring power at the wheel hub, can not claim flywheel power, as we don't know what the losses are in the drive line, especially on cars that aren't brand new.