Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can try 303 aerospace protectant that stuff works good on rubbers and plastic.

 

On 29/11/2021 at 8:35 PM, Duncan said:

those seals are available new from nissan

 

On 30/11/2021 at 5:59 AM, joshuaho96 said:

This thread reminded me to order them. LH side is discontinued for R33s, we’ll see if it ever comes back.

 

Do you guys have the part no. For the RH side rubber?

On 30/11/2021 at 1:21 PM, Duncan said:

I don't have the part# handy, but all 4 (LH/RH door and cabin side) seals are listed on efisolutions.com.au

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/search-results?q=r32 seal

Thanks duncan, im looking for R33 rubbers.

Can't seem to find the one that looks like the r32's, the only r33 i can find doesn't look like it goes around the side mirror.

On 11/29/2021 at 5:19 PM, dyl33 said:

You can try 303 aerospace protectant that stuff works good on rubbers and plastic.

 

 

 

Do you guys have the part no. For the RH side rubber?

It's listed on the EPC under "front door panel and fitting", original part number for the RH is 80220-22U00, LH is 80221-22U00. Should bring up the superceding part numbers. The LH is definitely discontinued but might come back under another part number at laughable cost under the Nismo Heritage Parts program, if they made the RH side as recently as last year they might do it for the LH side if they think they can sell out their MOQ. RH is an open question, I have no idea if they're still available but we'll see if my order goes through. To get that one stupid rubber piece you have to buy the entire assembly. In classic Nissan fashion the part was barely painted from the factory so they tend to be extremely rusty when pulled out of the door, so to do the repair "properly" you need to mask off the rubber and get it painted so it doesn't rust again. Looking around you should also expect to spend a lot of time with the door disassembled and adjusting it so the window slides correctly as it seems to be a guide rail for the pillarless windows.

This Minkara blog talks about the production dates on their parts, they mention that the driver side part run seems to be relatively recent (2020?) while the passenger side is much older, more like 2016: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/322508/car/2941721/6237254/note.aspx

On 11/29/2021 at 6:21 PM, Duncan said:

I don't have the part# handy, but all 4 (LH/RH door and cabin side) seals are listed on efisolutions.com.au

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/search-results?q=r32 seal

The R32 has a different design, you only need the door rubber seal 80830-04U10 RH and 80831-04U10 LH instead of buying an entire structural component of the door like the R33. I don't really understand why Nissan didn't make the rubber weatherstripping a separate piece like the R32s even if they wanted to have the glass guide be a separate component in the door.

On 11/30/2021 at 5:28 PM, PLYNX said:

Toluene or Xylene will probably remove it

DON'T get it on anything else

As a general rule I thought hydrocarbons and rubber don't mix? I got a bunch of penetrating oil and other fun stuff on some old hoses as I was taking my engine apart and it was really obvious that it damaged them. I wouldn't risk taking anything like that to rubber I actually wanted to keep.

On 1/12/21 at 3:04 PM, PLYNX said:

You only need to wipe off the white "oxidization" off the surface of the rubber with a dampend cloth

You’re right. It’s been days since I wiped that spot and it’s still as per the “after” photo attached in my original post 😀

  • 1 month later...

AFAIK you can't replace only the rubber seal you need to buy the entire corner piece assembly. LHS is discontinued & RHS is available under a new part # H0220-22U00. Is that you Nissan Scam Program??

I've had great results restoring the rubber using a black vinyl dye product called Forever Black. 

 

spacer.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, if it wasn't a GTR I'd say that killing an RB is a perfect opportunity to put in a proper engine. In your case, proximity to Brabus and AMG V12s would be a no brainer for any RWD Skyline engine death event. In my case, because my car is my daily, anything that I do wrong that means I have to do it again is both an absolute pain in the arse (simply having to do it again), and also a doubling of the pain associated with having the car off the road to work on it. I would class a botched head gasket install as not being "engine death causing". More a case of "f**k it's still leaking!"
    • Yeah, this is more stuff like transmission/clutch R&R. Intake manifold R&R. It's not super complicated, but each step matters and you need to be careful and patient. I have heard stories for example of people not figuring out the super coppermix twin plate orientation and getting it wrong on assembly. Removing a cylinder head and putting it back in once it's machined isn't that hard, following torque sequence to install some cams isn't that hard either, but somehow I've seen a lot go wrong between here and there. Scraping off all gasket material isn't that hard either, but I've seen shops ruin heads by using a roloc disk that was too aggressive.
    • There is some shops in Germany that have quite a bit of experience with JDM performance 4-wheelers. I think if it actually comes down to it I'd let one of them do the head gasket. Killing an RB26 is too expensive a risk just to save some money by doing it yourself.
    • There are certain tasks, like replacing head gaskets, where it is very much best to already know what you are doing, and if you are not already an expert, then the next best thing is to have an expert around to help it get done. Little annoying checks and steps that are easy to forget or not interpret the results of properly, etc etc. It is hard to convey that to someone as a lesson prior to taking on a job, because there can be a whole list of "if you see this then it means that", or "if this is what you find then you will need to do these other 4 steps first". All the little bits of knowledge around sealant choice (ie, sealant at all? or no sealant? sealant only in certain parts of the gasket? sealant for this type of gasket but not that type of gasket? etc etc) cleanliness checks and methods, surface straightness and finish checks and methods, etc etc, all combine to mean that people who have done many of the same type of job will struggle less to get a good result than someone who hasn't done it before. I've been around this stuff since forever. But I will still consult with my expert(s) before taking on the big stuff with higher risk profile.
    • Well if I end up having to do the head gasket I will certainly find the necessary tools and instructions before beginning... Let's hope it won't come around.   Definitely. Depends on the job but I think "if you want it done right, do it yourself" applies almost every time
×
×
  • Create New...