Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm not sure why you removed the sound deadener??? 

Don't bother with DIY remedies... this is how you can do it properly.

For the lightly stained areas, just stick to a fine grade wet sand paper....and then paint over once the stain is gone.

For the worst areas...especially the pitted ones...you just need to sand the rust in the localised spot working down from a heavier grit to medium grit wet sandpaper, which will get most of the rust off. It's just localised rust from the spare wheel touching the boot. Don't go to town on sanding the whole boot...not needed! Try to avoid sanding the seam sealer etc (obviously)

After the rust spots are down to bare metal - use a fine brush dipped in "RUST DEOXIDISER"...and carefully apply this to the little rust areas. It's important the chemical you use is DEOXIDISER.

After applying that, let it sit for a while and obviously wipe off with prepsol before it dries, and repeat 3-4 times. If you go to a panel shop they will probably be able to sell you some - as the trade products are a shitload stronger than retail products.

After deoxidising the rust, scuff the surrounding paint with red scotch brite....& then you are ready to apply etch primer and then paint the matte gray colour on. Mask up the surrounding area using tape & paper..... as you don't need to paint the whole boot, just blend it in and keep the repair as small as possible. Spray can paint or spray gun depending on your level of expertise will be fine.

Probably will cost you about $100-$150 in materials.

 

  • Thanks 1
  On 23/01/2022 at 3:23 AM, sonic99 said:

By the way, how do I remove these plastic clips in the boot? The arrow points up so I tried it with the arrows pointing down (and up) but I just can’t get it to move

B1F86815-B4C9-47C6-B694-19A0A792E749.jpeg

Expand  

Try various orientations until it releases? I don't recall having any issues with those clips.

  • Thanks 1
  On 23/01/2022 at 6:22 AM, GTSBoy said:

You may need to put something between the two pieces of trim to prise them apart while you turn the clip. There's no science here. They are very simple, just a little annoying sometimes.

Expand  

Prise them apart with arrows pointing up or down? 😬

  On 22/01/2022 at 12:42 PM, BakemonoRicer said:

I'm not sure why you removed the sound deadener??? 

Don't bother with DIY remedies... this is how you can do it properly.

For the lightly stained areas, just stick to a fine grade wet sand paper....and then paint over once the stain is gone.

For the worst areas...especially the pitted ones...you just need to sand the rust in the localised spot working down from a heavier grit to medium grit wet sandpaper, which will get most of the rust off. It's just localised rust from the spare wheel touching the boot. Don't go to town on sanding the whole boot...not needed! Try to avoid sanding the seam sealer etc (obviously)

After the rust spots are down to bare metal - use a fine brush dipped in "RUST DEOXIDISER"...and carefully apply this to the little rust areas. It's important the chemical you use is DEOXIDISER.

After applying that, let it sit for a while and obviously wipe off with prepsol before it dries, and repeat 3-4 times. If you go to a panel shop they will probably be able to sell you some - as the trade products are a shitload stronger than retail products.

After deoxidising the rust, scuff the surrounding paint with red scotch brite....& then you are ready to apply etch primer and then paint the matte gray colour on. Mask up the surrounding area using tape & paper..... as you don't need to paint the whole boot, just blend it in and keep the repair as small as possible. Spray can paint or spray gun depending on your level of expertise will be fine.

Probably will cost you about $100-$150 in materials.

 

Expand  

I was going to pay someone to finish it all off. But after being quoted $700+ I’ll just follow your recommended steps and try and deal with it myself. Thanks again!!!

  On 12/12/2021 at 12:04 PM, Robzilla32 said:

Remove the sound deadener with dry ice; wire wheel the rust marks; paint with kbs; reinstate the seam sealer; cover with new sound deadener

Expand  

Will this wire wheel kit do ok? https://www.bunnings.com.au/josco-3-piece-drill-brush-kit_p6111235?store=5228
 

I’ve removed the carpet lining from the boot. Is there anything else I need to keep in mind so as not to cause any damage?

I’ve reached a point where I’m beginning to think I should have just left it as it was… so the question is… do I abort mission or keep going? Should I aim to remove all the discoloured spots around sealant also? How long is a piece of string?

This is where I’m at now 

4F213B37-47F8-4067-871B-ED0DC4F876E1.jpeg

247888AA-1BFB-41EE-A6EA-74A3A087B9AE.jpeg

6CFB9FAA-C930-40CA-82FD-DE1005548B26.jpeg

I did a bit more cleaning and this is where I’m at now…

I’ve concluded that the sealant parts that are discoloured aren’t necessarily rusty 😵💫

However, the parts circled red are rusty but I’m finding it difficult to get to them. Especially the only on top and the one next to the rubber seal down the bottom. Any tips on how and where to from here?

6A2D26B2-2606-46DB-9A20-3EF7C40C513D.jpeg

Remove any flake or loose rust with said wire brush.  Get a rust sealer like Septone and convert/seal the rust.  Use a quality primer and paint over the Septone areas.  Lastly paint the whole boot area, several coats, sanding lightly between dry coats.

This should take care of all the rust, boot paint quality, and your time for the next few months.

  • Thanks 1

I just did this on my hydraulic tank and subframe for a dumper.  The battery is right next to the tank and [from previous owners] acid spilled out and ate the tank away until I lost hydraulic fluid...so I took the tank out, cut the rust affected part out and replated...then I used a wire corded type brush on an angle grinder and got the rust off the subframe and the rest of the tank.  Then did the above steps in my previous posts.  With waiting for the prep/primer/paint to dry between coats etc it took me around 10-12 days...hot sunny days.  TBH I should have done it before, but 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' + laziness took over :).

 

  • Thanks 1

Gotta admit, I'm [like many others on here] sitting here scratching my head wondering what your doing and why.  The 'rust' you are having sleepless nights over is nothing.  Personally I think you have made a mountain of work for yourself.  Close the boot, open the bonnet and do work there.....thats where the go fast stuff lives!!!!

If you must, ,,,for that 'rust' under the car, coat it with Septone converter, then use an undertray primer/bitumen type paint and forget it.

https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care-panel/paint/underbody/c/1862917956

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/septone-septonechassis-black---1-litre/1411.html

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...