Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If your car has ever been driven in the rain it is all but guaranteed that the highlighted area under the trunk is going to have surface rust. Nissan went super, super cheap on undercoating starting with the R33s and it got even worse in the R34s. You'll notice the undercoated area has no surface rust but the area that is merely painted with what looks like primer or base coat tends to show surface rust easily.

You can arrest the spread of rust in those areas by using a lanolin-based undercoat and it won't matter anymore, the oily grease will stop rust from progressing further. If you really want to go crazy you can do what I did and have the entire car taken apart by an R-chassis specialist so they know what NLA parts to treat like platinum and have the subframes/suspension components powder coated and the entire underside resprayed with urethane undercoat. At that point though we're talking about spending the value of the car itself in restoration.

thank you, all. I feel like I can’t just leave it as it is as I’ve already removed some of the sealer etc.

just to clarify, are the following steps correct and do I reinstate seam sealer at the very end, after I’ve repainted?

1. Rust deoxidiser

2. Septone

3. Primer

4. Paint

Edited by sonic99

I made some progress. Removed most of the tar and a bit more of sealer.

is there an easy way to remove the hose/plastic circled in yellow? I cannot get the wire brush in there as there isn’t much space. I’m trying to avoid having to buy a Dremel. Or is that the only way to get in there?

DF4613B3-40C4-4F60-96FD-F5D5256CCE35.jpeg

You're keen.

It looks like whatever that is has a rubber grommet at the bottom that comes inwards. Get behind the rubber lip with a broad bladed screwdriver and it should pop inwards

  • Thanks 1
On 1/2/2022 at 2:33 PM, Duncan said:

You're keen.

It looks like whatever that is has a rubber grommet at the bottom that comes inwards. Get behind the rubber lip with a broad bladed screwdriver and it should pop inwards

I took the rubber grommet of but the cable wouldn’t move. So Dremel will be the only way it seem. What did I get myself into 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The larger TB I had on the SS was a pain to get to idle right, but, that was cable In the end they just raised the idle up a couple of hundred RPM so it was happy idling away either in gear or in park (slush box life) I'm curious on how my NC will idle with the new intake, larger TB, and cams that are currently going in/on, but I have faith that MX5 Mania will sort this "electronical" "black magic" out the best they can in the tune with a electronic TB Sometimes I wish I knew more about the intricacies of tuning, but most of the time I don't because I know it would hurt my brain 🤣
    • That's the thing. Cam is smaller than before.. though the old cam was +6 degrees advanced. We're talking huge changes here, the narrowbands want to trim out 20% of fuel and pull the (wideband) idle to like 16.0 AFR or such. One side is a little more trimmy than the other. Think along the lines of ~20% to ~15-18%. Unfortunately my scouring of the internet hasn't really found anyone with this issue. People either just disable NB's or have them wildly different, where one is -20% and the other is +20 or 0 (i.e a sensor is just dead/wiring is just busted). Turning them off and relying on the base map only results in the wideband reporting at about 14.0 with the Varex closed. It'd be a little leaner (closer to 14.7ish) with the Varex open. I know I can just change the switch points so that the narrowbands agree with the wideband, but it's still odd. Both of them are reading voltage, it's just that they're reading quite high mv, in the ~800 region. It's just odd. This was with the IAT fudged to report it was about ~22 degrees which is my guesstimation of the temperature in the room. I have an OEM sensor ready to try tonight, which is slow and crap - but .. worked last time I used it. Sadly I am aware that idle tuning with the big TB is going to be a PITA and I look 'forward' to many hours spent stalling or stumbling idle or delving into drivability things.
    • The GTR strut brace clears the new manifold.. by about 0.5mm. So this means I need to buy an OEM GTT Strut brace (again), which will clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. I guess I can sell the GTR Strut brace with the bonnet with the vents as a package deal as someone will need this one day. So my choices are vented bonnet but no strut brace, or GTR Bonnet with OEM brace (which I have to buy) but is bright red instead of the same colour as the rest of the car, which means the entire front end of the car will just be red until it goes back to paint jail. In other news the engine starts and doesn't leak. Why both O2 narrowband sensors think the tune is rich AF I do not know. The idle is also pretty shitty and my expensive IAT sensor from the USA is dead. The car sounds awful. But I assume or at least hope this is due to the many exhaust leaks, and the concrete garage it is in, sitting there with 0 intake bolted to it, and no bonnet or panels or anything to stop the induction/intake sound which is about 200db.
    • C'mon! At least come kicking and screaming into the 2000s. BA XR8 bulge.
×
×
  • Create New...