Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does anyone have any experience with the project mu forged sports 4-piston kit for the GTRs?

it's a front brake bolt-on kit, 355mm x 32mm

  • forged aluminum
  • 41mm piston
  • 4 pads / caliper

from my experience with the brand in the past, they make pretty solid stuff, so i figured this would be a nice upgrade for the R33. anyone here have experience with these? the site search didn't really yield any results, just posts about brake pads, mostly.

cheers!

I've never used or seen that kit. project mu have a serious reputation in braking but there is a lot of information missing from that listing like type and style of dogbone, is the disc solid or full floating to the hats etc. It also mentions they run '1 synchronised pad per piston' which sounds overly complex solution to a non-problem to me. Also no information on price or availability of replacement pads or rotor rings

If I was looking for something that serious I'd go AP racing or perhaps Brembo as they have plenty of users and good availability, but in any case something like Just Jap ATTKD are proven and less than half the price (assuming that listing is USD)

  • Like 2

thanks, @Duncan

i wrote to them and this was their response:

The rotors are a floating 2 piece type. In regards to getting ahold of more rotors, typically they would have to be ordered from Japan so the current standard of ocean freight wait times do apply. 

Here is the extra information that you requested: 

Total length : 282.8mm / Total width : 156.25mm / Total height : 72.3mm
Materials, production methods: Aluminium alloy/Forged
Surface finishing: Hard alumite with powder coating
Piston diameter: 41mm
Rotor dimensions: 345mmx32mm/355x32mm
No. of pads: 4Pads / 1 Caliper

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...