Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 TransGo kit installed - Something's f**ky

Akshunhiro

By Akshunhiro,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Akshunhiro Rising Star

Akshunhiro

Posted
Posted

Hey all, need some insight please on what I may have done wrong on my install

Finally got around to installing my shift-kit on the weekend and it was pretty straight forward

I kept everything organised, followed the instructions to the letter and kept an eye on the ball bearing and filter placement

Found another DIY from the G35 forums which recommended flipping the valve body over to keep the upper half separate with (in my case) 5 balls and springs since all the work is done on the lower (also double-checked the holes to be drilled out)

Put everything back together and took it for a drive but noticed it wanted to keep bucking down to 1st when in 2nd at medium throttle

Figured there may have still been air in the lines so slowly went through all the gears in manual mode and did a few light pulls in D

Everything seemed okay so I drove it home but noticed when it got hot it kept either trying to select a lower gear and bumping back up (when in D) and I now get an even worse jolt in 2nd where it seems to not be able to make up it's mind whether to drop back to 1st or stay in 2nd resulting in a really aggressive jerk

I've focussed on the fluid level to rule that out as it may have been overfilled after the install

It's all okay now but I still have the issue with it bucking in 2nd

I have no problems with pulling it all apart again but not sure what to look for

I also noticed a weird issue where the P will disappear from the dash when putting it in park sometimes which I've never seen before but going into reverse and park again seems to rectify that

Anyone come across this by chance? The gearbox was working fine before the install (I wasn't fitting the kit to try rectify an unrelated issue, just needed a fluid change)

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

Get your transmission tuned to suit

Transmissions are like engines, when you mess with them they may/will require a tune to run problem

Disclaimer: I'm new to playing with transmissions and the transmission I have is a 4l60e

I get my transmission tuned at Craigs Automatics whenever I change power or gearing

  • 4 weeks later...
m35stagea Community Regular

m35stagea

Posted
Posted
On 1/28/2022 at 3:51 PM, Akshunhiro said:

Hey all, need some insight please on what I may have done wrong on my install

Finally got around to installing my shift-kit on the weekend and it was pretty straight forward

I kept everything organised, followed the instructions to the letter and kept an eye on the ball bearing and filter placement

Found another DIY from the G35 forums which recommended flipping the valve body over to keep the upper half separate with (in my case) 5 balls and springs since all the work is done on the lower (also double-checked the holes to be drilled out)

Put everything back together and took it for a drive but noticed it wanted to keep bucking down to 1st when in 2nd at medium throttle

Figured there may have still been air in the lines so slowly went through all the gears in manual mode and did a few light pulls in D

Everything seemed okay so I drove it home but noticed when it got hot it kept either trying to select a lower gear and bumping back up (when in D) and I now get an even worse jolt in 2nd where it seems to not be able to make up it's mind whether to drop back to 1st or stay in 2nd resulting in a really aggressive jerk

I've focussed on the fluid level to rule that out as it may have been overfilled after the install

It's all okay now but I still have the issue with it bucking in 2nd

I have no problems with pulling it all apart again but not sure what to look for

I also noticed a weird issue where the P will disappear from the dash when putting it in park sometimes which I've never seen before but going into reverse and park again seems to rectify that

Anyone come across this by chance? The gearbox was working fine before the install (I wasn't fitting the kit to try rectify an unrelated issue, just needed a fluid change)

 

The 2nd gear jerkiness, is a standard for the shiftkit for a lot of people. It can be quite clunky. 

The transmission is 'adaptive' and it will take a while to drive and for it to 'relearn'. Sadly when you clear the ecu etc it doesnt actually clear the tcm. I am unsure of anythign besides consult being able to clear the parameters also. 

 

As for the rest of your sumptoms are you having any other issues? Only time ive had the dash dissapear is when my IPDM got wet, that also made the gearbox run  full line pressure constantly. 

Akshunhiro Rising Star

Akshunhiro

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 2/21/2022 at 2:21 PM, m35stagea said:

The transmission is 'adaptive' and it will take a while to drive and for it to 'relearn'.

Thanks. Things have improved but there is some odd shifting behaviour once it gets hot. I've ordered a trans cooler for it.

Manual mode seems a lot better.

The P symbol dropping out seems to have disappeared too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean I can be OCD'y but this is really over the top. At that point why not just run a full wideband fuel controller? Especially if you run 3 widebands. The system works pretty well, which is trimming low load stuff to be within a few percent of the base map. Pre-engine _change_ the base map was only 1-2% off, depending on ambient temp, elevation, etc. Under load the LS is really very straightforward to tune, enough that a wideband closed loop would be overkill. If I really cared (and I hope I don't) I can always just go back to the MAF system the car actually came with. Which does all those nice calculations for me (temp, altitude, etc), now that you can buy 102mm MAF's that do not cause restrictions.
    • Pac
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Pac · Posted

      Good afternoon Team , just a quick update on performance mods  Current Mods list (Installed) HKS - Power Editor (Came with the car) looks to be some kind of boost controller RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler Not Yet AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes  - to be installed in May 
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.
    • dbm7
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By dbm7 · Posted

      It's actually one of the worst bits of Nissan nomenclature (also compounded by wiring diagrams when the TCU is incorporated in ECU, or, ECU has a passthru to a standalone TCU).... the gripe ~ they call it the TPS, but with an A/T it's actually a combined unit ...TPS (throttle position switch) + TPS (throttle position sensor).... ..by the looks of it (and considering car is A/T) you have this unit... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2262002u11 The connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit, is the TPS (throttle position sensor) ...only the TCU reads this. The connector on the unit body, is the TPS (throttle position switch) ...ECU reads this. It has 3 possible values -- throttle closed (idle control contact), open (both contacts open, ECU controls engine...'run' mode), and WOT (full throttle contact closed, ECU changes mapping). When the throttle is closed (idle control contact), this activates what the patent describes as the 'anti stall system' ~ this has the ECU keep the engine at idling speed, regardless of additional load/variances (alternator load mostly, along with engine temp), and drives the IACV solenoid with PWM signal to adjust the idle air admittance to do this. This is actually a specific ECCS software mode, that only gets utilized when the idle control contact is closed. When you rotate the TPS unit as shown, you're opening the idle control contact, which puts ECCS into 'run' mode (no idle control), which obviously is a non-sequitur without the engine started/running ; if the buzzing is coming from the IACV solenoid, then likely ECCS is freaking out, and trying to raise engine rpm 'any way it can'...so it's likely pulling the valve wide open....this is prolly what's going on there. The signal from the connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit (for the TCU), should be around 0.4volts with the throttle closed (idle position) ~ although this does effect low throttle shift points if set wrong, the primary purpose here is to tell TCU engine is at idle (no throttle demand), and in response lower the A/T line pressure ... this is often described as how much 'creep' you get with shifter in D at idle. The way the TPS unit is setup (physically), ensures the idle control contact closes with a high margin on the TPSensor signal wire, so you can rotate the unit on the adjustment slots, to achieve 0.4v whilst knowing the idle control contact is definitely closed. The IACV solenoid is powered by battery voltage via a fuse, and ground switched (PWM) by the ECU. When I check them, I typically remove the harness plug, feed the solenoid battery voltage and switch it to ground via a 5watt bulb test probe ; thing should click wide open, and idle rpm should increase... ...that said though, if it starts & idles with the TPS unit disconnected, and it still stalls when it gets up to operating temperature, it won't be the IACV because it's unused, which would infer something else is winking out...  
×
×
  • Create New...