370GT With Brembo brakes, annoying stud on rotor. Why? what?

[Vee37]

I just got a 370GT and tried transferring my custom RIMs from my 350GT to the 370. Annoyingly, we found that there was an unexpected stud in addition to the wheel bolts. Which my custom RIMs didn't account for. We were testing if they would clear the brembo's. The wheel guy thought they would (I wasnt so sure), but maybe the stud is a manufacturers (ie Brembo) check to ensure only wheels that would clear, could be used.

The wheel guy said he had only seen such a stud before on an Alfa, and he personally had custom big breaks on his car, and it had no such stud.

Is this a stopper to ensure only "certified by brembo", compatible wheels are used? Are other people shaving this stud off?

PS: Does anyone want to buy some Stance SC-5 rims with new tyres....

[nickcorr]

Got some pics? Also curious as I didn't think there were factory Brembos on the V36.

Edited February 8, 2022 by nickcorr
2nd question

[Nightcrawler]

The stud just unscrews. Take it out. Everybody does.

Get a new wheel guy if he is so new that he did not know this.

[Nightcrawler]

You will also find that the offset of V36s is annoyingly different to V35s. If you have any sort of decent offset wheels, they will not fit properly on the V36 without serious camber/toe massaging and/or lip rolling.

[Vee37]

On 2/9/2022 at 10:47 AM, nickcorr said:

Got some pics? Also curious as I didn't think there were factory Brembos on the V36.

No, was in a rush, and wasn't personally sure they would clear the front brakes, so just moved on. Regret it now with the quote below!

If you look at this video where the guy replaces the rotor, the orig has the stud (Video cued to the right point in time)

But on the replacement, there is no stud.

 

The "P" models of a V36 have Brembo's 

On 2/9/2022 at 10:47 AM, Nightcrawler said:

The stud just unscrews. Take it out. Everybody does.

Get a new wheel guy if he is so new that he did not know this.

ARGGGHHHH! It was a mobile Tyre guy. I did mobile so he would come out to me, instead of me lugging my large wheels and two cars, to my regular wheel guys, and then lugging the 4 spares into my tight garage. From memory, the stud didn't look like it was a nut that could be gripped with pliers or such, and the replacement parts I have seen on-line, *look* like the opposite side is chamfered (ie larger on the inside) so it looked like I would need to take the rotors off to pull out the stud backwards. But, I did not confirm it.

 

On 2/9/2022 at 10:49 AM, Nightcrawler said:

You will also find that the offset of V36s is annoyingly different to V35s. If you have any sort of decent offset wheels, they will not fit properly on the V36 without serious camber/toe massaging and/or lip rolling.

The wheels when on my 350GT are overly inset (PLENTY of space till the guards on the V35. Bugged me the sales people didn't point that out to me before). If I did put them on my V36, would they push out more to fill the guards? or be even further inset? You imply they will stick out more, by how much approximately?

I checked multiple places on-line and the offsets were all over the place and different between web sites (diff between V35 & V36). I was ready to undo (as I now did because of the stud) if the offsets were bad, after a test fit; which is how we found the stud. He span the wheel twice, testing each partial rotation / bolt position.

[Nightcrawler]

On 2/9/2022 at 3:12 PM, Vee37 said:

ARGGGHHHH! It was a mobile Tyre guy. I did mobile so he would come out to me, instead of me lugging my large wheels and two cars, to my regular wheel guys, and then lugging the 4 spares into my tight garage. From memory, the stud didn't look like it was a nut that could be gripped with pliers or such, and the replacement parts I have seen on-line, *look* like the opposite side is chamfered (ie larger on the inside) so it looked like I would need to take the rotors off to pull out the stud backwards. But, I did not confirm it.

 

The wheels when on my 350GT are overly inset (PLENTY of space till the guards on the V35. Bugged me the sales people didn't point that out to me before). If I did put them on my V36, would they push out more to fill the guards? or be even further inset? You imply they will stick out more, by how much approximately?

I checked multiple places on-line and the offsets were all over the place and different between web sites (diff between V35 & V36). I was ready to undo (as I now did because of the stud) if the offsets were bad, after a test fit; which is how we found the stud. He span the wheel twice, testing each partial rotation / bolt position.

It was 3 years ago that I took mine off - yes, maybe you have to pull the rotor off and unscrew it from inside the rotor.

 

If your wheels were bad offset on the V35, chances are they will be much better offset (in terms of filling up the guards) on the V36.

 

FYI I had 10 +12 offset wheels that sat flush on the back of my V35. With stock height and camber, they sat at least 3cm outside the guards on my V36, so no good. The fronts of 9.5 +20 sat flush on the V35, and poke out maybe 10-15mm on the V36, so they are usable, but really poked a bit much at stock height/camber.

[sonicii]

Going to take a guess and say maybe the factory wheels are staggered?  stud prevents putting the wrong size wheel on the wrong end?

[Vee37]

On 2/9/2022 at 3:52 PM, Nightcrawler said:

It was 3 years ago that I took mine off - yes, maybe you have to pull the rotor off and unscrew it from inside the rotor.

 

If your wheels were bad offset on the V35, chances are they will be much better offset (in terms of filling up the guards) on the V36.

 

FYI I had 10 +12 offset wheels that sat flush on the back of my V35. With stock height and camber, they sat at least 3cm outside the guards on my V36, so no good. The fronts of 9.5 +20 sat flush on the V35, and poke out maybe 10-15mm on the V36, so they are usable, but really poked a bit much at stock height/camber.

Realised later, by Chamfered, I really meant COUNTERSUNK.

See, now you make me want to spend more money chasing this, as my heavily under flush wheels on the 350GT would probably sit perfectly flush with my guards on the 370GT.

I still think that the fronts are not going to have the clearance of the brembo's. The tyre guy thought if it wasnt for the extra stud, they would of fit. Is there any rule of thumb as to how much clearance one should have between the brakes (ie caliper holders) and the wheel? Im thinking under load, they will flex/bend, possibly fouling the brakes.

Edited February 10, 2022 by Vee37

[Nightcrawler]

They won't flex under load - if they fit and you can spin them with the car off the ground, they will be fine. I have had wheels where it seemed like there was only around 0.5mm clearance between the Brembos and the wheels, yet they never rubbed.

[Duncan]

A miss is as good as a mile...but keep in mind you may not be able to fit balancing weights on the wheel if it is very tight

also, rocks can get lodged and gouge the inner rim when it is very close too....I don't care on the race car but it might be an issue for road (or carpark) use

[Vee37]

On 2/11/2022 at 6:17 AM, Duncan said:

A miss is as good as a mile...but keep in mind you may not be able to fit balancing weights on the wheel if it is very tight

also, rocks can get lodged and gouge the inner rim when it is very close too....I don't care on the race car but it might be an issue for road (or carpark) use

The closest point would be nearest the center. They are kind of deep dish, with the 5 spokes getting further and further out as you move away from the center. Its the inside region that concerns me. Once you move away from the center, there is plenty of space. Although mine are nowhere near as deep as these, it will give you an idea how its only near the center they encroach on the brakes.

I think it was this video that got me to buy these rims in the first place about 5 years ago, but for my 350GT. Now I have a black 370GT coupe.

EDIT: and those are 20" while mine are 19" and are staggered.

Edited February 11, 2022 by Vee37

[Vee37]

On 2/9/2022 at 10:47 AM, Nightcrawler said:

The stud just unscrews. Take it out. Everybody does.

Get a new wheel guy if he is so new that he did not know this.

Actually, I think you are correct. (Somewhere here I made you doubt your memory. My bad... )

I found this parts diagram for the front rotor, and it clearly shows it as a screw / bolt with a spacer. (Bottom left)

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Nissan&ssd=%24*KwE2AhN_bl93d0YzQHofHm56Wl1DMj0wMSMwJmBFeSFwJzgiHnFjJmhlYCY_WSIFYm0oJ1oxJikgWG5xEnl7d2pgRXkiMDorJj86NjEpIG06MG0-J1oxJikgdT5xdSYxMTBFJTIwb3EyenNrZ0R-IGkpcXUmQ1BCSUAgLH86PCY_IEBPUzE2aWN8NTA3ISgnZ2F_aRRZeAAAAAClhw-n%24&vid=0&cid=16&uid=351943&q=CKV36-403155

 

Edited February 16, 2022 by Vee37

[Nightcrawler]

Haha yeah, I don't remember it being a big deal at all - when I fitted new wheels shortly after I bought the car I thought I just unscrewed it and it was gone.

[Vee37]

On 2/16/2022 at 3:11 PM, Nightcrawler said:

Haha yeah, I don't remember it being a big deal at all - when I fitted new wheels shortly after I bought the car I thought I just unscrewed it and it was gone.

And seems that the rotors just may need to come off. I'll find out later today when I have someone coming around to test the mag fitment.

There is someone actually selling this useless part on ebay!!

And this useless bolt costs more than $40 PLUS there is $10 shipping! $50 for extra weight. hmmmm.... maybe I'll just take them off mine and sell them on eBay myself.

 

PS: I just noticed you can buy 1, 2 OR 3. But if you want 4, there is an extra step.

Edited February 17, 2022 by Vee37

[steV36]

Is it a bolt with a sleeve around the shaft? If so it’s 100% safe to remove the stud. I believe it is because of the staggered factory set up so you don’t mix up the front & rears. 
 

I’ve upgraded to akebono calipers with new rotors & I removed the stud. I have about 2mm clearance & never had an issue with rubbing/rocks etc… so far

[Vee37]

On 2/17/2022 at 4:47 PM, steV36 said:

Is it a bolt with a sleeve around the shaft? If so it’s 100% safe to remove the stud. I believe it is because of the staggered factory set up so you don’t mix up the front & rears. 
 

I’ve upgraded to akebono calipers with new rotors & I removed the stud. I have about 2mm clearance & never had an issue with rubbing/rocks etc… so far

It appears in the first diagram I found, to be  stud with a sleeve. The sale on eBay did not include the sleeve. I have not seen it taken apart, just installed. It clearly does not do anything structural or mechanical. 

I REALLY hope my wheels have the clearance           

[Vee37]

and they did not fit. They cut really bad into the brembo's. The guy suggested spacers, but insurance wouldn't pay-out if they found out in an accident. So, its off to get some tyres just to pass the blue slip for rego, across state borders.

My search has shown that the wheels (stock 19" with brembo's) are 8.5" in the front and 9" in the back. I am going to get 245/35 19's all round; not sure how the low profile will go, but they are cheaper and I expect will handle better. Just to get past the registering hoo-ha (Time limit for cross border), until I decide what to do for my RIMs. I guess once I sort out my daily, these old rims with new tyres will be up for sale.

OH, and the stud was simply a bolt with a spacer, and came off in a fraction of a second when the guy used the power wrench on it. No need to take off the rotors/discs from the hub. When he was done he looked around for the bolt to put it back on, until I scoffed and told him to scrap that!

Edited February 17, 2022 by Vee37

[Nightcrawler]

Glad it worked out (in a way). At least now you/we know about the stud - I thought it was an easy fix.

 

Yes spacers are a bad idea - MUCH better to get wheels that actually fit and have appropriate brake clearance. Good luck in your search.

[The Max]

That bolt came in handy for me because I could remove the spacer, then screw the bolt back in to pop the rotor off the hub.

[Vee37]

On 2/17/2022 at 10:07 PM, Nightcrawler said:

Glad it worked out (in a way). At least now you/we know about the stud - I thought it was an easy fix.

 

Yes spacers are a bad idea - MUCH better to get wheels that actually fit and have appropriate brake clearance. Good luck in your search.

I got the tires at Ozzytyres, and there was another guy there who was cursing the guys there. They had put spacers on his new Merc, and if I understood what he was saying, a wheel stud broke. Not only did he not know that they had put spacers on, he didn't even previously know what a spacer was. I couldn't believe how he was bad mouthing them well within earshot, and everyone acted like friends. I was surprised to see spacers on the walls for sale. Since they are illegal; at least on road cars. He also told me (loudly) how he had posted a bad review on their wed-site, and it magically disappeared.

I pretty much know what the wheels will look like. I will get the same look as in the OP, just a different brand, and maybe "smoked" (my ca is black), as Stance don't sell those in AUS anymore, and they were very expensive.

On 2/20/2022 at 10:01 PM, The Max said:

That bolt came in handy for me because I could remove the spacer, then screw the bolt back in to pop the rotor off the hub.

Well, I threw away the one that was taken off (may still be in my trash). Your welcome to the other one. And just for others, my small extra stud was exactly like the one in the first parts diagram, and not like the ebay one. It did not go through the rotor and hub, but simply screwed into the disc rotor. ie no need to remove the disc rotor, just the wheel. It was only being held on with a very few turns. It was (just as in the diagram) a bolt going through a sleeve.

As for using the bolt to help remove the rotor, the wheel guy who tested my wheels fitment, thought it was a simple metric bolt you could get at bunnings. Do they have a similar bolt/stud on the rears?

Edited February 20, 2022 by Vee37