Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I live in WA and the car I have put a deposit on is in NT. I have 2 questions. 1. What is the best way to pay them without them running off with the money (Not saying they will but you never know with a stranger) and 2. What is the cheapest freight from NT(Darwin) to WA (Perth). Any insight would be appreciated. 

I don't really have any suggestion about the first, but since you said it is a rolling shell and therefore not running it will be eye watering to get it from Darwin to Perth; I guess you will need someone you trust to load it into a container and strap if down properly, then ship from there to Perth. Most likely that will involve trucks and both ends and rail in between (if you guys have had your rail reconnected to the rest of Oz by then)

Ok thanks I will look into it. I think I will try and get a car shipping company to move it. I have about 1k to spend on shipping it and I cant go out there so I hope I can find something. BTW the car is a S1 R33 GTST

On 21/03/2022 at 9:10 AM, Cade.The.JDM.Enthusiast said:

Ok thanks I will look into it. I think I will try and get a car shipping company to move it. I have about 1k to spend on shipping it and I cant go out there so I hope I can find something. BTW the car is a S1 R33 GTST

Ha ! You got no hope at that price. Darwin to Perth is nearly 5000km going the main transport way and the car is a non runner, which makes it more expensive to freight.

When we got our white 32 GTR as a non runner back in 2019 from Sydney to Alice Springs it was over $2k, and that was depot to depot which is the cheaper than door pickup. Average for non runner was in excess of $3k from the likes of Ceva etc. Darwin to Perth is going to kill you if you only budgeted $1k.

The only carrier that wouldn't be well over $5k for a non runner that does that route will be SMB transport, which you can book through Moving cars.

Log onto moving cars and get a quote for a non runner Darwin to Perth - I'll be surprised if it comes in at under $4k.

 

I find that hard to believe for a non runner and the route they will take, as the car carriers route will definitely be Darwin, Alice, Port Augusta then west to Perth.

If you really can do it for under $2k for a non runner as you say, I'd be jumping on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty much what you'd expect at that power level. Hypergear turbo, long list of supporting mods, full Haltech catalogue, etc.  I'd say this goes for most drivers, suspension is still a dark art for most people. And it's really hard to convince someone how much better their setup could be...  
    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...