Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Something along the lines of a Motec hall sensor.

https://www.motec.com.au/ac-sn-crankcamspeed/sn-crankcamspeed-hs/

 

Not sure there is much room to mount one look at the back of the studs the way the knuckle is.  I need to look at it on the car.

image.thumb.png.f648c598a7deac1e0965e45649336ad6.png

 

That should be more help to anyone else that looks at this post.

I use the factory ABS holes and run GT101 style hall sensors on the ABS rings. Due to the high tooth count and low diameter I've reduced the number of teeth by 50%, still much better than wheel studs. 

This works fine with my Motec setup, I use the rear ABS sensors for rear wheel speed.

  • Like 1
On 24/03/2022 at 10:24 AM, mrsr32 said:

Something along the lines of a Motec hall sensor.

https://www.motec.com.au/ac-sn-crankcamspeed/sn-crankcamspeed-hs/

 

Not sure there is much room to mount one look at the back of the studs the way the knuckle is.  I need to look at it on the car.

image.thumb.png.f648c598a7deac1e0965e45649336ad6.png

 

That should be more help to anyone else that looks at this post.

I haven't done it just yet on mine, as of late I haven't had much spare time to tinker however I believe if you expose part of the dust shield you'll be able to see the wheel studs. 

On 28/03/2022 at 7:58 AM, Komdotkom said:

I use the factory ABS holes and run GT101 style hall sensors on the ABS rings. Due to the high tooth count and low diameter I've reduced the number of teeth by 50%, still much better than wheel studs. 

This works fine with my Motec setup, I use the rear ABS sensors for rear wheel speed.

This would be an ideal solution on a non ABS car, however if you wish to retain ABS then this won't work.

 

Or if both the above is too hard basket, just use a GPS sensor and calculate the percentage slip based on rear wheel speed vs GPS speed (similar to how AWD, 4WD guys would control traction).

On 3/28/2022 at 9:58 AM, Komdotkom said:

I use the factory ABS holes and run GT101 style hall sensors on the ABS rings. Due to the high tooth count and low diameter I've reduced the number of teeth by 50%, still much better than wheel studs. 

This works fine with my Motec setup, I use the rear ABS sensors for rear wheel speed.

Perfect, this what I was after.  Did you just use an R32 abs ring and grind every second tooth down?

I looked into g sensors and gps, but a lot of people say they react too slow, however it must work some how for the AWD guys that have no option of a non driven wheel speed sensor.

Yes, just the stock ABS sensor hole (shims needed to get correct sensor clearance) and then I chucked the tone ring in the rotary table and knocked off every second tooth in the mill. 

You need to have an ECU which can do different wheel speed calculations on either end of the car, I'm not sure what you are running but Motec does it. I don't have much experience with the other brands. On the rear I just run unmodified tone rings because the teeth are larger and further apart which works for GT101's. 

It's worth noting that GT101's get a bad wrap largely on missing tooth setups, which they are shit at. On constant tooth setups I've not had any dramas with them but I always have spares ready to go just in case.

  • Like 1

That's going to be hard to get right. You're doing very different calculations so the resolution available in the ECU will be critical. 

You will need to spend a lot of time making sure that your driven wheel speed matches your front wheel speed, I suspect that you'll need a lot of numbers after the decimal point for this to read correctly.

Is this traction setup for circuit racing or drag/roll racing?

If it's for drag, straight line business see if you can adapt a GPS sensor. You can then calculate slip percentage (road speed) between the drive wheel & the actual position of the car.

For circuit racing, you would ideally want both front wheels fed in vs. the rear driven wheels.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...