Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well my build is progressing and I need to decide on wastegate. I really wanted to fit an E gate but am not sure, who has used them and how do they perform? 
on paper they should be amazing but can’t find much on real world results, other then catastrophic failures. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483482-e-gate-vs-conventional-gate/
Share on other sites

Plenty of them in OEM applications, primary value to the OEMs is to be able to open the wastegate completely during cold start to warm up the catalytic converters much faster. That and they can fully close off the wastegate at WOT to help maintain boost at high RPMs for small turbos. HKS has also put them on their "advanced heritage engine concept": 

image.thumb.png.5c1b5b72eeabc9410e7fba0512f01ace.png

New WRX is electronic gate now also.

Geez they're expensive at $1300 - $1600 for the 45mm to 60mm Turbosmart ones without controller, which is another $800 !

I'd be giving this a big miss - they draw 20A too !

On 3/25/2022 at 8:36 AM, joshuaho96 said:

primary value to the OEMs is to be able to open the wastegate completely during cold start to warm up the catalytic converters much faster.

Hard to see how that is true. It's not as if the turbine stops the flow and it's not as if the engine (should) be getting thrashed until it is a little warm anyway, so the turbine shouldn't even extract much/any energy from the exhaust, apart from that required to heat up the housing. If heating up the housing is critical cf the heating rate of the catalyst, then....f**k!

The biggest benefit to the OEM in the immediate post cold start period might be just to enforce "no boost for you" until the engine is warm enough for it.

  • Like 2
On 3/24/2022 at 6:54 PM, GTSBoy said:

Hard to see how that is true. It's not as if the turbine stops the flow and it's not as if the engine (should) be getting thrashed until it is a little warm anyway, so the turbine shouldn't even extract much/any energy from the exhaust, apart from that required to heat up the housing. If heating up the housing is critical cf the heating rate of the catalyst, then....f**k!

The biggest benefit to the OEM in the immediate post cold start period might be just to enforce "no boost for you" until the engine is warm enough for it.

I think it's partially to make sure you can't get into boost, but also to try and reduce how much thermal energy the turbine absorbs. This is only for the first minute of operation or so, even the transient effect of the exhaust hitting a cold turbine probably has a measurable effect on how fast they heat up the catalytic converters. Modern emissions is pretty wild and it seems with Euro 7 it's going to get even crazier unless they hit the brakes on how crazy they want that to get. Supposedly the regulators are thinking about mandating live emissions monitoring and reporting to central authorities in addition to another massive cut in emissions over Euro 6d.

They should just reconsider how hard they make it for ICE to meet emissions targets in a market environment where ICE is getting killed off in favour of EV for various other reasons anyway. No reason to use emissions as a lever when there are plenty of other levers, and no reason to make emissions limits really tight when the number of ICE vehicles will fall, which will have a much bigger effect than trimming the last 1% off the NOx/CO/HC emissions.

On 25/3/2022 at 9:13 PM, Predator1 said:

I thought about it with my build, but the sheer size of those f**kers put me off it.

I guess space would be another issue, I’ve been told the reaction time of opening and closing is slow compared to a traditional gate. 
I just like the idea of being able to control the gate, could be used to take out some of the aggression on the power delivery through the midrange. 

On 3/25/2022 at 8:20 PM, Old man 32 GTR said:

I guess space would be another issue, I’ve been told the reaction time of opening and closing is slow compared to a traditional gate. 
I just like the idea of being able to control the gate, could be used to take out some of the aggression on the power delivery through the midrange. 

4 port mac valve and a proper 3d wastegate duty cycle map, can go further with additional 4 & 5D depending how many other considerations you want like wheel speed and TPS

At the moment probably best to stick with traditional wastegate as it works.

  • Like 1
On 26/3/2022 at 12:09 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

4 port mac valve and a proper 3d wastegate duty cycle map, can go further with additional 4 & 5D depending how many other considerations you want like wheel speed and TPS

At the moment probably best to stick with traditional wastegate as it works.

Think I will be, but I’m going to get my loom made with provisions for an E gate 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...