Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good evening Gents, 

        In 2022, which RB/CD009 shifter relocation kit comes most recommended? Do any of the shifter relocations actually manage to get the shifter back within the shifter tunnel without cutting? GK seems to require cutting, how about the new Serialnine CD999?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483491-rbcd009-adapter-questions/
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I am running a cd009 behind my rb25det in a r33 gts25t. 

Serial nine shifter lines up almost perfectly in the factory hole. As far as driverability goes the 4.11 stock rear diff ratio is a bit too short, maybe 3.7s would be more suitable (on order). 

Other than that the cd box seems to chatter a lot more, maybe because i deleted the dual mass flywheel. 

A recent realization of mine is that depending on whether you mill 15mm off the bellhousing or go with a thicker flywheel to adapt for the CD trans, the latter probably is the cause of having to notch out the trans tunnel hole. 

No idea why I never made the connection before but here we are. 

  • 1 month later...
On 5/22/2022 at 6:37 AM, Blakeo said:

I am running a cd009 behind my rb25det in a r33 gts25t. 

Serial nine shifter lines up almost perfectly in the factory hole. As far as driverability goes the 4.11 stock rear diff ratio is a bit too short, maybe 3.7s would be more suitable (on order). 

Other than that the cd box seems to chatter a lot more, maybe because i deleted the dual mass flywheel. 

How is that 3.7 treating you? 

On 5/23/2022 at 12:24 PM, TurboTapin said:

A recent realization of mine is that depending on whether you mill 15mm off the bellhousing or go with a thicker flywheel to adapt for the CD trans, the latter probably is the cause of having to notch out the trans tunnel hole. 

No idea why I never made the connection before but here we are. 

You're probably better off going with something like the Jim Wolfe adaptor where you cut off the whole bell & use a bell off an auto, seems to work well

On 7/6/2022 at 9:45 PM, WMDC35 said:

You're probably better off going with something like the Jim Wolfe adaptor where you cut off the whole bell & use a bell off an auto, seems to work well

You can only use the JWT adapter with their flywheel. As I'm running a twin disc, I'm avoiding this by milling my bell housing down. Cheers. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...