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I've had an xtreme clutch and lightened flywheel, spigot, release bearing and crank oil seal fitted by my garage locally in my R33 gtst s2

It's had everything put back together, along with braided clutch line to delete the dampener.

It will select 1st, 2nd and 3rd just about BUT won't select 4th or 5th or reverse, the biting point is instant and near the floor. 

Feels like the gear isn't available on the box if you get me, when engine is off it selects all gears smoothly.

The mechanic bled the system with a vacuum first, then in the car with me assisting. Crack nipple, depress clutch, tighten.

Did the same thing for the slave. The peddle feels normal.

The car changed gear fine before the garage did the clutch change, but obviously the clutch started slipping that's why I booked the car in straight away.

The clutch pedal hasn't been adjusted. (not sure if that would help as it's just for height of peddle?) 

Help would be appreciated quickly if possible, as it's on the ramp still :(

If you could p.m me and possibly speak to me that would be great also please. 

Cheers.

Edited by Almera96gtin15
  • Almera96gtin15 changed the title to Xtreme clutch help *advice please* r33 gtst s2

OK, either the clutch pedal adjustment is no good, or the release bearing is the wrong height (same as a thread yesterday!).

Since you said it is up on ramps and at mechanic, it should be easy to confirm if the pedal adjustt is the issue. Pressing the pedal should start moving the slave cylinder rod within the top 1/4 of it's travel, and the slave rod should be fully extended by the time the pedal is on the floor. If not, adjust the pedal.

If the slave rod is moving all the way with the pedal, you need to take the box back off and fit the correct sized release bearing and carrier.

Thank you for your reply mate. 

The release bearing is the on that came in the kit with the xtreme clutch KNI24001-1AX so that should be correct (the mechanic did say that it was a different size though) and the carrier is the original one from the car that was pressed off and the other release bearing pressed onto carrier. 

I'll suggest the pedal adjustment tomorrow to the mechanic, the old clutch friction disc was right down to the rivets (original 81k miles) would a new clutch normally need pedal adjustment? 

Also, when you say "If the slave rod is moving all the way with the pedal"

All the way with the pedal what mate? 

 

 

 

Edited by Almera96gtin15
On 01/04/2022 at 9:43 AM, Almera96gtin15 said:

carrier is the original one from the car

So, what is the original carrier ? 14mm, 16mm, 18mm ?

Have you checked with ACS in Adelaide that the carrier you have is the correct one for your clutch ?

It must be carrier bearing week. I agree, you need box out and to measure correctly. The pedal might have been part of the problem but more likely it is masking the bearing moving less than it should

The stock carrier sleeve is 18mm, as far as I am aware for stock r33 gtst. 

I checked the travel, and the first 1/4 of the clutch pedal starts to move the slave cylinder and carries on moving as the pedal gets to the bottom.

If the carrier is correct for the release bearing that came with the xtreme clutch kit, is there much else it could be? Such as the lightened flywheel and heavy duty clutch echoing the sound through the box. Release bearing could be faulty etc? 

Someone must have fitted this model clutch to their r33 gtst the same as me surely? KNI24001-1AX. 

I'm waiting to see if ACS get back to me. 

I had a reply from Acs which were helpful. He says the xtreme bearing is correct for the clutch. 

I was reading a post about someone removing the pin on the clutch pedal rod and the rod came out further, he adjusted the pedal stopper up to where the pin meets the hole and its been good after that. 

Is that OK to do? To check for correct adjustment of the pedal? 

There's only really 2 places this can go wrong

1. The full pedal movement does not give full slave cylinder rod movement - Pedal adjustment will help here (although I not BK said he has also seen issues with the slave rod being too short in some slave cylinders

2. The pedal moves the slave rod through it's full movement - in this case something is wrong inside the box. Could be the fork is not clipped in properly, wrong height carrier/bearing combo, broken pivot. You can check for broken pivot or fork not clipped in correctly from the outside because it will flop around with the slave cylinder unbolted, otherwise it is box out to check.

  • Like 2

Are you using a Nismo slave? If so go get an OEM one.

The Nismo slave, although more heavy duty and provides lighter pedal feel actually decreases overall travel.

This was what Scott at Western Clutch in St Mary's told me and advised at the time (on my previous shit box) to revert back to OEM when he did my clutch.

On 05/04/2022 at 7:53 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Are you using a Nismo slave? If so go get an OEM one.

The Nismo slave, although more heavy duty and provides lighter pedal feel actually decreases overall travel.

This was what Scott at Western Clutch in St Mary's told me and advised at the time (on my previous shit box) to revert back to OEM when he did my clutch.

I mentioned this in the other thread and this is absolutely the case. The Nismo slave cylinders I will say again, are pure shit. I have used both Nismo pull and push and the travel reduction is quite significant, especially in the push version.

I know the clutch here is a single,  but on a side note Nismo does acknowledge this though and has a comment on their catalogue to never use them on multiplate clutches. Funny that as its usually the singles that require more travel...

  • Like 1

Thanks for the replies guys, I appreciate it. 

Slave cylinder is the stock one. 

Clutch fork is OK and pivot. 

I think it's the release bearing making the noise, everything else seems fine now. Pedal had come up a bit since bedding in a bit. 

I'll ask again if possible please, I read that taking the pin out on the pedal (the shaft moves out further about 1/2 an inch) 

If I let the shaft come out and line the hole up with the pin and move pedal stopper back is this a good idea? Or not. 

By the way I did notice the clutch pedal is slightly lower than brake pedal. 

 

Take a photo of your clutch pedal, the pedal limit bolt (can't recall the right name) and the clutch rod going into the master.

I feel that the adjustment might be at play here as you're using the factory slave and the correct bearing carrier as supplied by ACS.

I'll take a picture soon, so you can see mate. 

I was only asking because, now the rod has been adjusted out for more throw I don't have any slop in clutch pedal. So when I took the pin out of the fork, the rod moved slightly towards me out of the hole which made me think the pedal stopper has to come back a bit to allow a bit of play? 

Is that right? 

 

  • Like 1

This is what the gtr manual says about pedal adjustment, even it the heights aren't identical for a 33 GTST the process probably is. Adjust the stopper first for the right height at rest, the adjust the rod to remove free play

image.png

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