Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 16/04/2022 at 7:03 PM, GTSBoy said:

Hi Matt! I still don't know exactly what Brenton ended up doing to make mine work! Never saw the final wiring diagram, then got distracted.

We just had to get the compressor output in the correct voltage range to make it happy. Can't remember how we did that. Resistors or something. Was a while ago!

  • 1 year later...

Well here we are, a year later and my AC has depleted again. I refilled it back in Feb only for it to lose refrigerant a month later. Luckily, as recommended by others on here, I added dye this time around and, whilst using a UV light, have found traces of semen dye around the compressor connector. I'm going to get a rebuilt compressor whilst I'm in there, seeing as they're cheapish in JP. 

Now, my question is, how difficult is it to remove the AC compressor? any special tools needed? from looking at other cars I've seen you need to disconnect the pipe that runs to the cabin, then a couple around the compressor. probably the intake pipe too - engine is stock. 

Yes, yes I know, cannot vent it to atmosphere. I don't know the regs in Japan but it's probably incomprehendible anyway. The system is most likely empty by now as it's been over a month since the AC pressure switch was triggered. 

35 minutes ago, GoHashiriya said:

Well here we are, a year later and my AC has depleted again. I refilled it back in Feb only for it to lose refrigerant a month later. Luckily, as recommended by others on here, I added dye this time around and, whilst using a UV light, have found traces of semen dye around the compressor connector. I'm going to get a rebuilt compressor whilst I'm in there, seeing as they're cheapish in JP. 

Now, my question is, how difficult is it to remove the AC compressor? any special tools needed? from looking at other cars I've seen you need to disconnect the pipe that runs to the cabin, then a couple around the compressor. probably the intake pipe too - engine is stock. 

Yes, yes I know, cannot vent it to atmosphere. I don't know the regs in Japan but it's probably incomprehendible anyway. The system is most likely empty by now as it's been over a month since the AC pressure switch was triggered. 

Shrug, I would vacuum it anyways just in case but yeah most likely it has all vented out anyways. HA section of the R34 manual details how to remove it, doesn't appear to be anything crazy but it will almost certainly be annoying anyways because Nissan. Expect to remove power steering bits in the way, also the intake piping. I would be surprised if you have to remove the AC lines at all, should be able to disconnect much closer to the compressor and call it good. You may want to flush the system if you've had a leak and replace the receiver/drier as well.

  • Like 1
On 5/12/2023 at 4:16 PM, joshuaho96 said:

Shrug, I would vacuum it anyways just in case but yeah most likely it has all vented out anyways. HA section of the R34 manual details how to remove it, doesn't appear to be anything crazy but it will almost certainly be annoying anyways because Nissan. Expect to remove power steering bits in the way, also the intake piping. I would be surprised if you have to remove the AC lines at all, should be able to disconnect much closer to the compressor and call it good. You may want to flush the system if you've had a leak and replace the receiver/drier as well.

Thanks for the input. Couldn't find anything regarding removing the compressor in the HA section but it seems fairly straightforward.

EDIT: got it. It's in the HA section of the Japanese manual for me, not in the english one. 

Edited by GoHashiriya
typo
13 hours ago, GoHashiriya said:

Does anybody know what oil I can use, and the quantity for the AC system/compressor only?

The FSM says "use DH-PR for the compressor oil" other sources are saying PAG 100.

https://ithurukaramu.lk/2020/02/14/lubricants-for-air-conditioning-and-refrigeration/

Looks like DH-PR is PAG 100. If the compressor is dry reference the underhood sticker or look up a picture of one online to figure out how much oil you need to add.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

https://ithurukaramu.lk/2020/02/14/lubricants-for-air-conditioning-and-refrigeration/

Looks like DH-PR is PAG 100. If the compressor is dry reference the underhood sticker or look up a picture of one online to figure out how much oil you need to add.

Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is anyone running these axles? R32, R33, R34 GTR front Axles. shafts itself rated 950hp. Suit all RB26 engines Croydon, Melbourne, Victoria Would be nice to pay half the cost of Driveshaft Shop Axles. I'm building an AWD S13 Coupe that is very low ride height (high cv angle) compared to stock R32. Has an RB30 with appx 600whp. Just looking for feedback. Thanks, Josh- https://www.instagram.com/feng_shui_garage/
    • Been a long time since r31 got some love, my brother dropped a shitbox ls1 crapadore in my lap to fix up.  Put a wiper motor in as the flooded one was no longer alive.  got windscreen wipers now. Time to clean respray and install back in the titanic  IMG_0505.mov
    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
×
×
  • Create New...