Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 12/05/2022 at 9:51 AM, TurboTapin said:

I order a fair amount of parts from Japan(Amayama) and it takes roughly 2-3 days to arrive in Quebec snail mail. 1 day if you pay extra.  If you're in Australia which is much closer, should take half that. 

As a long time customer, Amayama is pure shit at the moment for Australia. At least a 3-4 month wait if you are ordering multiple parts. Amayama have an office in Australia (Sydney), UAE and Japan and not all parts are stocked in Japan - some are US, some UAE. For Australia they don't specifically order and ship your parts to you from supply point either - they bulk order to Australia warehouse to keep shipping down which is why their supply to us sucks and takes ages. Having a local office here is actually a disadvantage because of this now - called the Sydney office yesterday as I have an order of nearly 4 months getting held up by still awaiting one part !

At least if you order genuine stuff from RHD, Nengun or JP car parts they exclusively source your parts within Japan and send direct to you from Japan.

  • Like 1
On 5/11/2022 at 6:54 PM, BK said:

As a long time customer, Amayama is pure shit at the moment for Australia. At least a 3-4 month wait if you are ordering multiple parts. Amayama have an office in Australia (Sydney), UAE and Japan and not all parts are stocked in Japan - some are US, some UAE. For Australia they don't specifically order and ship your parts to you from supply point either - they bulk order to Australia warehouse to keep shipping down which is why their supply to us sucks and takes ages. Having a local office here is actually a disadvantage because of this now - called the Sydney office yesterday as I have an order of nearly 4 months getting held up by still awaiting one part !

At least if you order genuine stuff from RHD, Nengun or JP car parts they exclusively source your parts within Japan and send direct to you from Japan.

Amayama prices have been completely nuts for a while now. Almost anything if I can help it I order either through a local dealer if the part number is listed in the US parts catalog or from US-based dealers that will import/stock JP-only part numbers on a special order basis. They only use surface mail though so if they don't have something in stock it will be 3-4 months.

On 5/12/2022 at 11:54 AM, BK said:

As a long time customer, Amayama is pure shit at the moment for Australia. At least a 3-4 month wait if you are ordering multiple parts. Amayama have an office in Australia (Sydney), UAE and Japan and not all parts are stocked in Japan - some are US, some UAE. For Australia they don't specifically order and ship your parts to you from supply point either - they bulk order to Australia warehouse to keep shipping down which is why their supply to us sucks and takes ages. Having a local office here is actually a disadvantage because of this now - called the Sydney office yesterday as I have an order of nearly 4 months getting held up by still awaiting one part !

At least if you order genuine stuff from RHD, Nengun or JP car parts they exclusively source your parts within Japan and send direct to you from Japan.

Damn 4 months is ridiculous. and I thought my 10 week wait in february took a long time.

I've noticed the only advantage with using Amayama is with large oversized items which would be costly using international shipping.

 

On 12/05/2022 at 7:54 PM, Nostalgia said:

I've noticed the only advantage with using Amayama is with large oversized items which would be costly using international shipping.

 

That's not even true either. I went to purchase a second set / pair of 32 outer sills which are over a metre long. This was going to be about $1250 -$1300 for them - and shipping with TNT / FedEX on top was going to be over $1400 !

When I got a set through RHDjapan it was about $550 with DHL...

You want fast oem, Ive gone back to these guys in Kyoto this year who I used to use years ago over Amayama - can't beat them for speed on oem parts but RHD is close. Both 100% reliable.

 https://jp-carparts.com/

Interestingly enough Amayama ears must of been burning as my last part is here this arvo and will ship entire order tomorrow from Sydney.

  • Like 1
On 5/12/2022 at 8:37 PM, BK said:

That's not even true either. I went to purchase a second set / pair of 32 outer sills which are over a metre long. This was going to be about $1250 -$1300 for them - and shipping with TNT / FedEX was going to be over $1400 !

When I got a set through RHDjapan it was about $550...

You want fast oem, Ive gone back to these guys in Kyoto this year who I used to use years ago over Amayama - can't beat them for speed on oem parts but RHD is close. Both 100% reliable.

 https://jp-carparts.com/

I suspect it's because you're in NT. local buyers in sydney can just choose pickup.

yeah RHD price is consistent. they offer consolidation free of charge and don't overcharge on shipping.

@BK @TurboTapinWas having similar frustrations with Amayama. I tried to order a while ago, but they quoted me $1500 to ship to Canada, and there was a 3.5 month lead time -_-

@GTSBoy @Dose Pipe Sutututu I fixed up the rubber boot, but still seeing the timing go way back to 5* on warm up. I hooked up my smoke machine again and I see it's still lightly leaking from that area. I may try some heat shielding tape to really seal off that area for now just to see if that makes any different.

Try closing up your IACV a bit, could be now there's too much air being bled back via the IACV and your factory ECU is shaving timing to keep the idle at target.

This is why I love DBW, you piss off the IACV and AAC air leaks.

On 5/13/2022 at 5:01 PM, _scott said:

@BK @TurboTapinWas having similar frustrations with Amayama. I tried to order a while ago, but they quoted me $1500 to ship to Canada, and there was a 3.5 month lead time -_-

@GTSBoy @Dose Pipe Sutututu I fixed up the rubber boot, but still seeing the timing go way back to 5* on warm up. I hooked up my smoke machine again and I see it's still lightly leaking from that area. I may try some heat shielding tape to really seal off that area for now just to see if that makes any different.

If you're in Canada just go to your local Nissan dealer for parts. We're one of the few country's that seems to still be able to order JDM parts through dealer. Cheaper as well as there's no middle man. 

I get small things that are cheap to ship from Amayama when I'm too lazy to drive over to the dealers.

Cheers. 

Edited by TurboTapin
On 14/05/2022 at 8:51 AM, _scott said:

@Dose Pipe Sutututu I assume you mean by adjusting the idle screw?

Correct, try unplug the idle plugs, unplug the TPS and adjust the idle screw till it idles just a tad under the target RPM.

At the same time, you might as well check your base timing and also set your TPS.

(All the above is complete waste of time on an aftermarket ECU as you can offset the lot, except when there's too much air allowed through the IACV).

Yesterday I adjusted my base idle and set my TPS. Im still getting 5* ignition timing on warm up.

A few things I did notice yesterday tho was, when I put my key to On, my IACV starts buzzing. I cleaned it again and also captured a video of what its doing when it gets power. Is this normal for these things to buzz?

 

I also took some logs of my car while idling, I noticed occasionally in the software that all the guages would just end up going to 0 for a few milliseconds, and then return back to normal. Does this mean a short somewhere? Or is it likely that its just a software bug. First time I've ever seen this and I've used datascan quite a bit.

 

 

capture_002.PNG

Ignition timing during engine warm-up is going to be a bit of a mess. The NEO IACV has two parts. One is the solenoid valve which is almost certainly never going to fail. The other is a coolant temperature controlled thermostat that meters more air when coolant temps are low but closes up as the coolant temps go up. This is the part that I'm worried about leaking excess air assuming you don't have any other vacuum leaks. If it doesn't close up properly the idle target will drop because the ECU sees coolant temp has reached a reasonable target but the actual thermostat isn't closing up properly and that's causing it to have to yank the timing out to get there. Maybe with hot enough coolant it finally closes up enough to have sane timing values but still low side of what you should be seeing.

Also, if you see the ECU connection dropping out I would make sure your USB connection is good first and foremost. I've had a lot of issues like that due to a bad USB cable. Also verify the consult port is connected properly and there's no weirdness like loose pins or other damage to the connector. Then maybe check the ECU capacitors?

Edited by joshuaho96
On 5/15/2022 at 10:24 PM, _scott said:

Ahh, didnt think it may be a connection issue with the laptop, but that's probably right. I'll double check the connection next time.

Is there any way to figure out if the coolant thermostat on the iacv is working correctly?

1843510535_ScreenShot2022-05-15at11_12_46PM.thumb.png.fcc332c7a93c53a6fd7a8ccb0287a9f3.png

I don't know why but there is no mention of how to test the cold start valve on the AAC assembly. I would only look closer at the cold start portion if you have normal ignition timing once the car is warmed up but you see less timing when the engine is cold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...