Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I recently crashed my r34 GT into a kurb then tree sadly. 

Ive done all the mechanical myself ( making it driveable for the panel shop ) and will be getting it back within the next week or 2

The bottom half of the air intake box was completely smahed up ( The MAF unit and everything above is undamaged ) 

I have purchased what I am hoping ( but am unsure )  are the right parts ( K-N universal pod filter + Maf unit adapter )  as to make the pod filter work so my whole intake is back up and running as a whole . As Im a 1st year apprentice mechanic with nissan so the knowledge isnt there just yet so any help is appreciated. 

https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Spare-Parts/Filters/Air-Filters/K%26N-UNIVERSAL-POD-FILTER/p/PE45411 - POD Filter 

https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Shop-our-Full-Ranges-by-Brand-|-Autobarn/TFI-Racing/TFI-Racing-Filter-Adaptor-Compatible-with-Nissan-Toyota---9096-/p/PE01742 - Adatper ( There was an r34 specific adapter on another site for the same price however they wanted to charge 60$ for shipping and I cant afford that with the body shop repair costs haha and it would be pretty easy to take back to autobarn if the adapter doesnt fit  ) 

 

IN terms of performance and heat should  I be worried or should I do anything else in order for everything to be back to how it was?

Do i need to get a heat shield for the pod filter 

Do I need to get it tuned professionally ? 

I have a rb25de 

Thank you ! 

 

 

This isn't the fun answer, but the stock airbox and snorkel will outperform a pod filter that is naked in the engine bay on a naturally aspirated car, if you can source that I would be sourcing that. That performs as a pretty good cold air intake, and I do not think you will be having vaccum under full throttle with a RB25DE to necessitate a larger intake system at all.

Yes I know it got smashed up, but I'd just be on the lookout for a stock NA Airbox/Snorkel combination while the car is being fixed up panel wise. It'll work, and it WILL fit.

On 14/05/2022 at 1:36 PM, Kinkstaah said:

This isn't the fun answer, but the stock airbox and snorkel will outperform a pod filter that is naked in the engine bay on a naturally aspirated car, if you can source that I would be sourcing that. That performs as a pretty good cold air intake, and I do not think you will be having vaccum under full throttle with a RB25DE to necessitate a larger intake system at all.

Yes I know it got smashed up, but I'd just be on the lookout for a stock NA Airbox/Snorkel combination while the car is being fixed up panel wise. It'll work, and it WILL fit.

ah what a shame then. Guess ill keep my eye out and will just use the pod filter until I find a suitble replcement 

Theres an ex welder at my garage who offered to size up and cut a custom heat resistent sheet metal box sorta thing to keep it hidden. Im thinking if he can do that then I shoullllddd be ok depending on where air is let in through the front. IM not to sure tho

Im also kind of considering running some pipping with pod filter  from the intake manifold down to the bottom left of the bumper wheres theres an open bumper vent for clean fresh air  however I havent had the car back in almost 2 weeks now and havent had a chance since thinking of this to go in and see if there would be room to fit a 3 inch pipe down through/around the ac and radiator area sorta thing 

What would you say about that ? 

 

Thanks for your help man 

On 5/15/2022 at 2:59 PM, MarcusH said:

Im also kind of considering running some pipping with pod filter  from the intake manifold down to the bottom left of the bumper wheres theres an open bumper vent for clean fresh air  however I havent had the car back in almost 2 weeks now and havent had a chance since thinking of this to go in and see if there would be room to fit a 3 inch pipe down through/around the ac and radiator area sorta thing 

What would you say about that ? 

 

I have done this, and made a custom airbox with two pipes that run down through the (turbo) stock intercooler holes that are in that section, to duct air from the opening in the front bumper. It works really, really, really well.

The reason it works well is I noticed how hot my intake air temperatures actually were with a naked pod filter in the engine bay, but because my car has a V8 in the front of it, I could not use the stock snorkel system so I had to make up a box and duct it etc, the details are in the most recent posts (ish) in my build thread in my profile/signature.

That said, I have a LS in the engine bay as mentioned. You don't. I actually needed the system to draw more air and that air to be 10C on a 10C day, and not 40C on a 10C day, and I can get benefits from a 4in pipe and big intake manifold.

The RB25... just doesn't. The reason it doesn't is because the intake system/airbox is sufficient for any amount of air that the RB25 is going to draw into itself. I would be surprised if the RB25 isn't at 100KPA at full throttle at 7000RPM on the stock system.

  • 11 months later...

if your a 1st year at nissan why wouldn't you ask the techs, most have probably owned a nissan import. yes you need a pod adaptor, you need a 3" pod filter, you need a bracket most fit around the pod hose clamp, probably would not hurt to shield the pod as the cops might defect you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
×
×
  • Create New...