Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 8/21/2022 at 7:18 AM, The Mafia said:

Butters, how does it drive? Can you feel your foreskin starting to peel back when its coming onto boost now? 

(I have to ask because mine got snipped 馃槩 ) 

 

lol that is an interesting way to describe ......

 

Car is still not tuned yet, this was setup step prior,  so hopefully in a couple of weeks time i will have a dyno graph. 

  • Like 1

I'm glad the issue was resoled by changing the valve springs. I hope to have my VCam Rb26 240z this week, but need help on wiring. The solenoid is not polarity dependent, but the cam position sensor is... 

Does anyone know which lead wire is Signal Ground and SPI (shielded cable) . Haltech ECU. 

I have a yellow wire with black stripe and a solid yellow wire,. 

IMG_6605.jpg

  • 2 years later...

Hi guys,

Sorry to butt in and take it slightly off course, although still on the VCAM subject. 

I had VCAM put into my Tomei 2.8 bottom end and I struggle to take off because the engine has very little torque caused by VERY low dynamic compression at 60psi. But once off the mark and especially on boost, the engine rev happily all the way to 8000rpm and makes 630hp at 20psi of boost on E85 at the rear hubs.

Has anyone had any similar experience or any suggestions on what might cause this low compression at low rpm?

I am in the process of converting it into a 8hp transmission and with this low torque, the engine would not even stay running until the throttle is opened to more than 30% and then I loose all vacuum. 

1 hour ago, believer said:

Hi guys,

Sorry to butt in and take it slightly off course, although still on the VCAM subject. 

I had VCAM put into my Tomei 2.8 bottom end and I struggle to take off because the engine has very little torque caused by VERY low dynamic compression at 60psi. But once off the mark and especially on boost, the engine rev happily all the way to 8000rpm and makes 630hp at 20psi of boost on E85 at the rear hubs.

Has anyone had any similar experience or any suggestions on what might cause this low compression at low rpm?

I am in the process of converting it into a 8hp transmission and with this low torque, the engine would not even stay running until the throttle is opened to more than 30% and then I loose all vacuum. 

I would be looking at the tune mate. How do you know that you have such a low dynamic compression? 

I had to dumb mine down because it was too jumpy when taking off (too much torque). 

What ECU? Do you need help with the tune? 

I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm.
I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue.

I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.

Edited by believer
  • 4 weeks later...
1 hour ago, PotatoCake said:

Not sure if any of the original members are still around, but what are your thoughts on the v cams after all this time and sorting out any installation issues, worth spending the $ on?

Definitely mate. Made my RB26 down low absolutely awesome. 

  • Like 1

Very happy with mine and I think you will be hard pressed to find someone that isn't happy after installing. 

Is it the best value for money vs other mods (eg 2.8 stroker) hard to say. 

If you are building an all out power motor above 1000hp+++, it's probably not for you as you will want bigger cams. 

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, Butters said:

If you are building an all out power motor above 1000hp+++, it's probably not for you as you will want bigger cams. 

Currently at 380rwkw with 2860 -5's & b cams on e85, trying to make it have a bit more torque/usable power down low. 
 

Ive googled the v cams and most sites say discontinued, is there anywhere you can still get them?

Did a conversion on my rb20 with rb25 cam and pulley, controlled it with a solenoid (forgot the port diameter of the solenoid)  and made an oil port on the cam cap to lower pressure in the journal.

Difference  is day and night, the rb20 isn't dogshit down low anymore, not a powerhouse but this had add much welcomed torque down low.

Boost build a bit sooner and torque rise way more when it start building boost.

Only need to deactivate the VTC past 6500/7000rpm.

 

Knowing how it help with only 2L, having it on 2.6L it should be a mod to think about early on as it gives a lot of performance on most on the rev range.

23 hours ago, Butters said:

https://www.nengun.com/hks/valcon-rb26-v-cam-system

 

no controller but most will use ECU to control anyhow

I have a VALCON if anyone wants it, I have no idea why you'd want to have VVT specifically broken out of the ECU as opposed to running it off the FCON/whatever standalone you have.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
  • Create New...