Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I find that the 370CCA NRMA 2383 batteries don't seem to last very long considering that most of the time the battery is isolated as the car only gets intermittent use. Any suggestions? Is there a good lithium option? Am I just imagining the short life or is 370CCA a bit small?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483707-r32-gtr-battery-options/
Share on other sites

I suggest the biggest Century battery that fits in the space. I can't remember exactly which one I put in there. I think it's the 430CCA one. I find Century more trustworthy than most other options available in Australia.

I also suggest that you either leave a solar panel charger on it, or a good float charger, if it is really left idle most of the time.

That might be the NS40ZX (410 CCA) which is not listed on Century's website any more. I've sent them a message to ask if its been discontinued. https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/car-batteries

The NS40Z is the 330CCA version, which is 'D' polarity (ie positive on the left, and you install it 'backwards') and small post. They still have the NS40ZLX MF ('C' polarity version @ 410 CCA).

There are a few web listings of the NS40ZX around so i'll see if i can find one.

Ended up getting a NS40ZLX after confirming the cables just reach by using an old NS40ZL from the Stagea. The bonnet is still well clear of the positive terminal, so only slightly ghetto.

Do what Gtsboy suggested though...keep the battery on a trickle charge.  I use an Oddyssey PC925MJT in my R33 and it also [these days] gets intermittent use.  But - so far - my battery has lasted 5 years cos its always hooked up to a solar panel and PR1210L regulator.  I also wired in a blocking diode to stop night time discharge.  I have a plug I use under the car and so every time I park it, I plug the solar lead into the car.  The panel doesn't have to be a big one, a 5 to 10 watt unit will easily do the job.  I use the same type of setup on my bikes, my excavator, and my mini dumper.  The dumper has a Lister 2 cylinder diesel motor which has no alternator or generator so the solar setup was almost essential.

Before I did this, I was going through batteries every 12 to 18 months.

I have a battery isolator as well, but a battery just sitting there slowly fades away, esp. in the cooler months.

What happens is the battery plates calcify, this then stops the chemical reaction needed for effective charging and recharging.

By trickle charging you stop plate calcification.

  • Like 1

I would recommend Panasonic OEM style batteries for any Nissan. Decent prices and three year warranty for private use.

Something like this would fit a R32 and provide decent CCA, the R version should be right polarity too: https://www.everybattery.com.au/online/product/n-60b24rje/

Edited by junkie
Spelling fail
  • Like 1
On 04/06/2022 at 8:21 AM, blind_elk said:

Autobarn has a Supercharge brand, which has a NS40 equiv (MF40B20L), at 390 CCA.

Two things:

1. I have had two Supercharge batteries in the GT-R and they have not lasted very long

2. Is there a rule of thumb regarding how long a battery should be on a trickle charger? Maybe, possibly related to point #1.

On 6/4/2022 at 9:39 PM, Robzilla32 said:

2. Is there a rule of thumb regarding how long a battery should be on a trickle charger? Maybe, possibly related to point #1.

I've bought a ctek mxs 5.0 (mentioned by BK above, $129 delivered from ebay) and the instruction video says you can leave it connected for extended periods of time. So, refer to vendor doco, but as trident says seems like any good one should be able to be left connected indefinitely.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...