Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm in the process of swapping out my OEM turbos for GT2859s

There are a bunch of M12 & M14 & M18 copper washers for the oil and water lines.

Can anyone tell me the correct/OEM thickness for these?

The washers I have removed are 1mm thick and I assume that is more or less the same before they were originally tightened i.e. the crush is negligible.

The replacements I have are 1.3mm thick.

Not sure if the loss of bolt thread contact is an issue or not, especially for the banjo bolts that attach directly to the turbos.

I'm tempted to anneal the original washers but for some reason that doesn't feel right.

I'm probably over thinking but would value anyone's thoughts.

Would also like to understand why Nissan used two washers connected together for the Turbo oil inlet.

 

Thanks

Lee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483710-turbo-copper-washers/
Share on other sites

First up, Nissan didn't use 2 washers on the oil inlet which is the clue that it has all been apart previously and you may not be looking at factory washers anyway.

To work out if your 1.3mm washers are OK (I guess so), measure 2 washers + the banjo and subtract the length of the banjo bolt under the head to the end of the thread. As long the answer (ie, how far the bolt will go into the housing) is at least the same as the diameter of the bolt you are all good, probably even a little less is OK as these are hollow bolts anyway.

On 6/1/2022 at 8:39 AM, proline said:

I'm in the process of swapping out my OEM turbos for GT2859s

There are a bunch of M12 & M14 & M18 copper washers for the oil and water lines.

Can anyone tell me the correct/OEM thickness for these?

The washers I have removed are 1mm thick and I assume that is more or less the same before they were originally tightened i.e. the crush is negligible.

The replacements I have are 1.3mm thick.

Not sure if the loss of bolt thread contact is an issue or not, especially for the banjo bolts that attach directly to the turbos.

I'm tempted to anneal the original washers but for some reason that doesn't feel right.

I'm probably over thinking but would value anyone's thoughts.

Would also like to understand why Nissan used two washers connected together for the Turbo oil inlet.

 

Thanks

Lee

https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bnr34/3957-rb26dett/engine/144/15188A/

Looking at the diagrams I don't see double washers. That sounds like an oil leak waiting to happen. The only exception is certain cases where there is a lock washer (split ring) and a flat washer.

So the two connected washers I'm talking about are labelled 15192F in the 3rd diagram on the page linked to in the response above. The OEM part number is 1518913C00. The two washers sit either side of a banjo but are connected by a strip of copper. As I said above this is for the oil inlet banjo bolt attached directly to the turbo (i.e the where a HKS 0.8mm restrictor bolt would go if needed) not the water/oil tube adapter that bolts to the turbo.

I've measured the amount of thread that will go into the housing and it is 5mm with the 1mm thick OEM washers and only 4.4mm with the new washers. The banjo bolt is M12 - hence my concern.

I've attached a photo to help explain the above showing the OEM washer and the thread depth with the new washers.

Love this forum. As someone who has zero access to GTR expertise and no mechanical background I find the posts here invaluable - thanks.

Lee

IMG_20220602_001500[2].jpg

The thickness difference you mention is negligible. As was said above, the connecting part is for ease of installation rather than needing to hold the inside washer in place while trying to line it up. New pipes with already attached banjo bolts sometimes have a plastic retainer that you rip off once you get the threads started. 

 

They're not that specific, just make sure they're thick enough to actually be crushed and not too thick that it reduces the thread engagement - both unlikely. So just get your diameters right and tighten it up. 

Oh and copper washers should not be doubled up. 

  • Like 1
On 02/06/2022 at 9:40 AM, proline said:

So the two connected washers I'm talking about are labelled 15192F in the 3rd diagram on the page linked to in the response above. The OEM part number is 1518913C00. The two washers sit either side of a banjo but are connected by a strip of copper. As I said above this is for the oil inlet banjo bolt attached directly to the turbo (i.e the where a HKS 0.8mm restrictor bolt would go if needed) not the water/oil tube adapter that bolts to the turbo.

I've measured the amount of thread that will go into the housing and it is 5mm with the 1mm thick OEM washers and only 4.4mm with the new washers. The banjo bolt is M12 - hence my concern.

I've attached a photo to help explain the above showing the OEM washer and the thread depth with the new washers.

Love this forum. As someone who has zero access to GTR expertise and no mechanical background I find the posts here invaluable - thanks.

Lee

IMG_20220602_001500[2].jpg

Just to add, that does not look like the correct banjo bolt. Not a washer issue, that bolt looks too short

  • Like 1

Thanks for all the replies - very useful.

That's definitely the correct banjo bolt. I've attached a picture of mine and the bolt indicated from the parts page linked to above.

It seems to me to have very little thread engagement but I assume Nissan know what they are doing and it hasn't leaked in the 22 years I have owned the car 🙂

A reduction of 0.6mm (2 x washers x 0.3mm) may not be significant for most bolts but I'm concerned that it is a relatively large amount for a bolt with such little thread engagement.

I'm leaning towards trying to source some 1mm thick washers or annealing the originals but would really appreciate any other comments.

 

OEM Banjo bolt.jpg

Banjo Bolt.jpg

On 6/2/2022 at 5:59 AM, proline said:

Thanks for all the replies - very useful.

That's definitely the correct banjo bolt. I've attached a picture of mine and the bolt indicated from the parts page linked to above.

It seems to me to have very little thread engagement but I assume Nissan know what they are doing and it hasn't leaked in the 22 years I have owned the car 🙂

A reduction of 0.6mm (2 x washers x 0.3mm) may not be significant for most bolts but I'm concerned that it is a relatively large amount for a bolt with such little thread engagement.

I'm leaning towards trying to source some 1mm thick washers or annealing the originals but would really appreciate any other comments.

 

OEM Banjo bolt.jpg

Banjo Bolt.jpg

Have you considered buying the OEM part? Seems to be pretty cheap.

"Seems to be pretty cheap."

Not where I'm based it's not especially when postage is thrown in. The M12 x 18 x 1mm spec washers are pretty rare here - they all tend to be 1.5mm or rubbish quality. Its seems though that that spec is used by some of the motorcycle manufacturers as OEM equipment and I have found a supplier so it looks like that's how I will proceed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
    • Just wanted to say thank you for your input   my man (lead mechanic by trade) and I have done a heap of work as you can imagine just to make the hot side work with the dump pipe, stupid massive intake on turbo, trying to get the waste gate on was not fun.  I’m kinda getting to the point where I don’t know if I try and make this work and not throw all this cash and time away or do I scrap the lot and start again? the Apexi I’ve got was tuned for a few slight differences:   Tomei pon cams (mine are stock neo) Turbo smart 38mm external waste gate (mines 45mm replumbed) with stainless screamer pipe  3inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat Sard 800cc top feed injectors Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg    
    • Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
    • Noted. Have noticed BMW are more 'high maintenance' for sure. They've attracted my attention as I think the used car prices seem reasonable vs other options, and the extra quality overall vs a commodore / camry / corolla or similar of the same vintage is appealing, especially the interior, and they are more on the sporty side whereas the others mentioned can be more cruising or economical A-to-B only.
    • Haha yeah I know, this is SAU after all, why are we talking about BMW's of all things!? I hear you on the 'don't have to worry about it' side of things. Having been fortunate enough to be have been able to buy a brand new motorbike or two...never really enjoyed them as much as I'd have liked as you worry so much about where you park it, will it get scratched, stolen, attempted theft, knocked over, etc...and yes dirty. Older less valuable bikes you can just go where you want and park it wherever and not really worry that much in comparison. And who cares if it gets dirty! Never owned a V8, and have had my eyes on VE / VF commodores for years but with their prices climbing so high, the M3 has come into focus more as prices are much closer than I've ever seen...is it a potential contender now?...of course need to factor in the S65 'maintenance' especially and like you said general M car 'tax'. One can dream anyway. But more on the reality front - did read the whole 330i thread as well and was a great read too, both threads enlightening as I've never even driven one of these cars! I do recall 330i didn't seem to have the same amount of issues for almost the same car (turbos and related differences notwithstanding)...perhaps down to getting it earlier in it's life so looked after better than the 335i? Perhaps so as your 130i has been good and quite similar, so finding a car that's been looked after well is the especially-crucial-BMW-first-step.
×
×
  • Create New...