Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

 

I had a turbo conversion carried out on my R33. It generally runs good but got a couple of problems. It's using standard DET parts, except for Walbro fuel pump, FMIC, 3" downpipe, decat, 4" catback and cone filter.

Since the conversion, it's burning oil and there's loads of blue exhaust smoke on the overrun or when I come to a stop at the lights that goes everywhere and very embarrassing. No smoke whilst driving.

Also after the first few days, it seems to be misfiring and hesitating when on boost as power keeps cutting every second or so. If I ease up on the throttle abit, then it keeps accelerates fine. Guessing this is likely to be failing coilpacks? 

The third problem I've got is that every now and then when on boost, it sounds abit like I've got an external wastegate/screamer pipe. When this happens, it seems to drive better on boost and not hesitate as much. The guys that carried out the conversion mentioned that I have some boost creep but not sure if that's related to this.

 

Thanks.

Edited by ossy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483717-blue-smoke-from-exhaust-rb25det/
Share on other sites

Best guesses:

If the turbo was second hand, and the blue smoke [burning oil] only happened after the 'conversion' then the turbo's seal is shot.

If the turbo was new or in good condition then they didn't install an oil restrictor for the turbo oil line.

Originally I was told about the boost creep and was told it just needs a remap but it's not a major concern, even though I thought that is wastegate/actuator related? Also I didn't realise it was smoking until I was closer to home as it was abit of a drive back on motorway. The breaking up and boosting issues started a few days later.

I rang them on the day about the smoking and was told the first turbo they put on during the conversion was knackered so they replaced it with another second hand standard turbo and the oil has likely gotten into the exhaust and just needs to burn off. Still smoking a few weeks later and saw oil level was dropping.

 

Also to add, it only starts smoking once the car has fully warmed up. The car has been back to the guys who carried out the conversion and they think it might be valve stem seals but aren't sure. Apparently the turbo seems fine, even though I thought that would be the cause, and the compression is also fine also but cylinder 6 sparkplug seems abit fouled.

It was done by a reputable workshop who are well known and I've used many times. They're work has been spot on but I just feel like one of their mechanics may have overlooked something and don't want them to think I'm putting them down by saying they're wrong, etc.

 

I thought it would be turbo seals or the oil lines as engine was perfectly fine before the conversion but they reckon it may be stem seals. The problem is though, they're not sure... and they're saying turbo is fine as it had no play when they put it on but that doesn't mean seals are fine. The turbo they sourced was likely taken off one of their skylines for breaking so doubt they've seen it running before and can't be sure either.

 

It might be time to cut your losses and go to another workshop.

Keep in mind this place gave you the car back with boost creep issues and told you the stock ECU needs a re-tune (the stock ECU can't be tuned)... There are a lot of other issues here but I'm not going to keep beating this dead horse. 

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...

Stock R33 boost control, with the exhaust, and FMIC done, will boost creep. There is no tuning around it if it is the factory boost solenoid.

 

If it has an aftermarket electronic boost controller, the settings/mapping can be altered in it.

 

Oil could be anything as mentioned, however did it ever do it before you did the turbo swap?

How much and how often did you drive the car before the swap?

 

I'm hinging on too much oil supply, or it's not draining properly.

 

To check, pull the air outlet off the turbo. Is it full of oil?

Drop the exhaust at the turbo, does it appears to be oiled/coked?

Now pull turbo and check the exhaust manifold, does it appears oiled and coked the same way?

 

Secondly, the PCV could even be stuffed / not functioning properly and will cause blowing of blue smoke.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...