Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

My car is idling a bit high when warmed up and seems to be stuck in "cold mode". (bad fuel economy) I noticed when my car is set to ON position, the IACV/AAC valve is getting less than 12v. Seems like there is maybe something wrong with the circuit. 

I'd like to see what happens to the AAC valve when it's getting all 12v when the car is running. I'm a bit of a noob at electrical, how would i go about doing that?

Is it as easy as running a wire from the +ve end of the battery to the +ve end of the valve, and then running another wire from the -ve end of the valve, back to the -ve end of the battery, and then starting the car?

 

I don't really wanna fry anything, so thought i would double check by asking here.

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483727-r34-gt-iacv-not-getting-12v/
Share on other sites

Hmm okay, good think I checked.

@GTSBoy I guess I'll test the circuit the old fashioned way with a multimeter. Ill trace from the ECU to the fuse and then from the fuse to the IACV. Do you know what fuse #14 would be on this diagram? I assume it is the 14th fuse counting from left to right, top to bottom on the kick panel fuse box.

 

 

fuse14.PNG

post-7461-1238892012.jpg

Nah, that's not how the fuses are identified. If you look, for example, just above fuse 14 on the wiring diagram, you will see the 15A fuse for the fuel pump. That's identified as fuse #1, but it is not the top left fuse in the panel. It's the top right.

Now, I've never thought about which fuse is which by number/order in the panel. Just used the identification of what it does to find it. In this case, it is clearly one of the IGN fuses, so that excludes all the other fuses in the panel. It also directly powers all those other devices, most of which are just pain 12V switched outputs on the ECU. So if you go to the purge solenoid, or the swirl valve solenoid for the inlet manifold switching, you should find 12V there.

You will also find 12V at the IACV, but only if measured direct to ground, not across the solenoid, because the ECU causes the IACV position to be set by PWMing the earth connection through the ECU.

I don't know the R34 fuse box at all. If I had to guess, I'd suggest that you're likely to be looking at one of the fuses labelled "ENG A/T CONTROL". Also, it might be possible that the fuse you're looking for is in the engine bay fuse box, although I wouldn't expect so.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...