Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Interested in Billet block information in regards to oil setup. 

 

Given how many 4wd rb26 blocks I have seen crack and even one with an engine brace. 

The billet block seems like a really good option for a reliable motor you can launch. 

I do however want to keep my car very street focused, I want to run AC and I also don't like cutting holes in it. 

 

I have been told that the billet blocks require external oil pumps and so far the only explanation is that the billet blocks need a lot of oil pressure. 

The other thing, which is more of an issue is that I was also told they need to be dry sump. 

 

Would be great for someone to explain the need for external oil pump and anyone actually know if you can run wet sump ? 

 

 

Edited by Butters
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483839-billet-blocks-oiling/
Share on other sites

You need yo run an external oil pump because they require a lot more flow and pressure because of the main bearing clearances.
 

hi octane do a single stage pump that fits under the alternator and allows you to keep your aircon and have a wet sump to suit

you will need to make sure you warm the engine up before driving it to allow the bearing clearance to grow

  • Like 2

Thanks. 

 

Just to be clear, the bearing clearances are larger due to billet ?  or due to the power levels people usually chase with these blocks ?

 

Trying to understand what the difference is here between say an Sr20 cast alloy block. 

It's interesting as when I spoke to bullet, they said i could drop my current rotating assembly into the billet block, as it was same same. I guess we didn't get into the specifics of bearing clearance, nor did he mention external oil pump requirement at the time. 

Funny enough i was scrolling through a year of PMC's posts looking for info. 

 

Found the one you posted above, thanks you have been very helpful. 

 

here is the video in the above post for anyone else interested

 

  • Like 2

No worries, I’m literally going through this myself at the moment because I’m having an engine built with a billet block. I’ve decided to with a dry sump setup in mine and have been told by 3 people including the engine builder to make sure I warm it up before driving it 

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm having a engine with a billet block built.  Can use an external pump that sits under alternator and re-use the wet sump and A/C compressor.  If going dry sump needs larger oil pump which sits in the similar location as A/C compressor so can't run A/C.  Unsure if anyone made kit to keep both for dry sump.    

Edited by RB335

I’m chasing what ever my turbo will allow, being a 6466 the maximum seems to be around 600kw at the hubs, my goal is very low compared to what most people with billet blocks are chasing but I’ve already cracked one cast block and don’t want to risk having to do it all twice 

On 23/07/2022 at 5:08 AM, r32-25t said:

I’m chasing what ever my turbo will allow, being a 6466 the maximum seems to be around 600kw at the hubs, my goal is very low compared to what most people with billet blocks are chasing but I’ve already cracked one cast block and don’t want to risk having to do it all twice 

To be fair you cracked the block while using and blowing a standard head gasket with 25 -30psi of boost, hardly surprising. I've mentioned I've cracked 3 over the years and others haven't, so let's see how long it takes to crack the current one with the 6466 at over 600kw. One more cracked block and I'll entertain the billet block idea possibly.

How long until your cars running with the new bling bling engine block Brett ?

It also ended up with the typical external crack

I’m still waiting for the engine to come back, I shaped the body side of the wiring harness yesterday and I’ve got pretty much every part that I need, I just need an engine to fit it all to

On 7/23/2022 at 3:38 AM, r32-25t said:

I’m chasing what ever my turbo will allow, being a 6466 the maximum seems to be around 600kw at the hubs, my goal is very low compared to what most people with billet blocks are chasing but I’ve already cracked one cast block and don’t want to risk having to do it all twice 

 I am very similar, not wanting a monster, just want something that won't break.    I look at the value now of a good running RB26 and wonder if i am better off selling and building billet before I put a crack in and its junk yard. 

I also really likes the idea of dropping 20kg from the car, losing weight in a proper street car is not easy and it all makes a difference.  Not so sure about the weight saving though, now your adding pumps. 

The warming the car up is not ideal.  It has me re-thinking a lot.   

I only use the car once every couple of months and I spoke to a guy with a billet block in his street car before I made the decision to buy mine and he said 10 minutes and it’s ready to go. 
 

billet blocks transfer a lot more of their heat into the oil compared to cast blocks Which helps gets the clearances up to spec quickly 

I would just bite the bullet, go dry sump, put heater into/onto oil tank and pre-heat before driving. Should be possible to use a standalone lithium battery pack + maybe a small inverter to run that heater so you can do it anywhere without drawing stupid power from the starting battery.

On 23/7/2022 at 12:57 PM, joshuaho96 said:

I can't imagine idling a car for 10 minutes any time I want to go somewhere but I'm not really the target audience for a billet block anyways.

I suppose it all has to do with how the car is used. If it’s purely a toy then generally when you use it it’s an “event”. If they’re not a daily driver then who cares. 🤷‍♂️

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...