Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Billet: 60 deg oil and water and send it

Other thing to consider is cast blocks other than potential cracking and splitting bores which is just a flip of a coin is keeping the head on. 11mm head studs vs 1/2" needed to keep a head on properly and not really enough material in the cast blocks to keep 1/2" safe n sound for too long

Btw talking consistant big power applications 

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...

He’s using an aftermarket power steering pump on the car and I’m yet to see one that doesn’t have that issue, maybe he should have used an electric power steering pump because it also doesn’t allow him to fit the second fan supplied by hypertune 

Man that engine surely copped damage from that.

It wasn't under power but it spun for ages on the run down, that can't have been healthy. Can't believe he just looked at the cam lobes and oil and was happy .

His theory of the belt could have gone any direction and not caused trouble makes no sense, it can't just shoot off and miss the oil pump belt, it can only possibly do what it did.

19 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Man that engine surely copped damage from that.

It wasn't under power but it spun for ages on the run down, that can't have been healthy. Can't believe he just looked at the cam lobes and oil and was happy .

His theory of the belt could have gone any direction and not caused trouble makes no sense, it can't just shoot off and miss the oil pump belt, it can only possibly do what it did.

I was confused about that as well, watching and thinking “where else can it go?”

Billets are sick. 

12 mins mine takes from dead cold to be able to drive.

Just start it and go back inside wash your face, brush your teeth, get ready and it'll be good to go.

Lighter, stronger, newer.

Anyone who says you can't drive it on the street is talking nonsense.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, Duncan said:

....I understand the upsides, but most people would consider waiting 12 minutes to drive the car after starting it to be a drawback for daily driving....

Yeah I'm not leaving a car idling for 12 minutes before driving it, even if I did that regularly I would want the option to be able to count 10 seconds and put it in gear. I would be afraid to forget and immediately trash my engine in the process.

3 hours ago, Piggaz said:

Surely if someone can warrant a billet block, the idea of that car being a daily driver is long gone. It’s a toy that’s taken out when you want. It can still be a street car. 🤷‍♂️

Correct, its a 1000hp+ roll racing / weekender.

600hp stock bottom end different story.

But even with a cast, 4 digit power levels built motors, you would want to spend a similar amount of time to warm your car up and get it on temp.

  • Like 1
35 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Yeah I'm not leaving a car idling for 12 minutes before driving it, even if I did that regularly I would want the option to be able to count 10 seconds and put it in gear. I would be afraid to forget and immediately trash my engine in the process.

You’ll never build a car that makes enough power to out flow the stock injectors let alone need a block. 

Like piggaz and usmair said, these are toys, they aren’t daily’s! We aren’t using them to take grandma to bingo! Having to warm an engine up that cost over 50k to build is a very small price to pay 

  • Like 2
3 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

You’ll never build a car that makes enough power to out flow the stock injectors let alone need a block. 

Like piggaz and usmair said, these are toys, they aren’t daily’s! We aren’t using them to take grandma to bingo! Having to warm an engine up that cost over 50k to build is a very small price to pay 

Sure, but at some point I'm going to be in the market for a block regardless and stuff like that will be a dealbreaker regardless of whether I spend 10k or 50k or 80k on the whole package.

12 hours ago, usmair said:

Billets are sick. 

12 mins mine takes from dead cold to be able to drive.

Just start it and go back inside wash your face, brush your teeth, get ready and it'll be good to go.

Lighter, stronger, newer.

Anyone who says you can't drive it on the street is talking nonsense.

 

I don't think anyone says you can't drive it on street. It's HOW streetable and that is always going to come down to what a person wants and circumstances. 

 

12min for me is a garage full of e85 fumes, or roller door up whilst drivers by gawk at my other cars.  Plus I have young kids which I am often escaping from whilst they sleep. Then the neighbors, one across the road has a lambo, who idles for 10min before driving, he's had the council called on him from other neighbors.  

 

So if i  was living the dream on an acre property and separate shed from house, probably have a billet block already and cheerish the 12mins of listening to my car idle whilst my brain soaks some e85. 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

I've been told RBs snap cams and spin bearings if you look at them wrong so any day now I'm preparing for a big engine build.

There’s only one person that says they snap cams and he’s the biggest troll on YouTube, they won’t spin a bearing unless your tune is junk or you try and track it with a factory sump 

1 hour ago, Butters said:

 

I don't think anyone says you can't drive it on street. It's HOW streetable and that is always going to come down to what a person wants and circumstances. 

 

12min for me is a garage full of e85 fumes, or roller door up whilst drivers by gawk at my other cars.  Plus I have young kids which I am often escaping from whilst they sleep. Then the neighbors, one across the road has a lambo, who idles for 10min before driving, he's had the council called on him from other neighbors.  

 

So if i  was living the dream on an acre property and separate shed from house, probably have a billet block already and cheerish the 12mins of listening to my car idle whilst my brain soaks some e85. 

But you would have the same issue with a prepped built cast block? Surely you would warm up anything making decent power to its operating temps before driving it.

Before going billet, I did the same with my cast Block and that took around 10mins anyway.

Billet has actually made the car quiter somehow as well.

lol, I've snapped a cam, but it did take a special oil problem (workshop removed the strainer on the oil pump AND broke the head off an internal bolt overtightening it, you'd never guess where it ended up)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In the context of cam 'upgrader' I mean generally people who upgrade headers/cams - not my specific change. I mean it makes sense that if I had a bigger cam, I may get more false lean readings. So if I went smaller, I'd get less false lean readings. To a point where perhaps stock.. I'd have no false lean readings, according to the ECU. But I'm way richer than stock. My bigger than normal cam in the past also was giving false rich leanings. It's rather odd and doesn't add up or pass the pub test. Realistically what I want is the narrowbands to effectively work as closed loop fuel control and keep my AFR around 14.7 on light sections of the map. Which is of course the purpose of narrowband CL fuel control. So if I can change the switch points so the NB's target 14.7 (as read by my WB) then this should be fine. Haven't actually tested to see what the changed switchpoints actually result in - car needs to be in a position it can idle for awhile to do that. I suspect it will be a troublesome 15 min drive home with lots of stalling and way too rich/lean transient nightmare bucking away for that first drive at 2am or whevener it ends up being. Hopefully it's all tune-able. Realistically it should be. This is a very mild cam.
    • Messing with narrowband switchovers is a terrible bandaid. I don't want to think about it. You are a cam "upgrader" only in concept. As you said, your new cam is actually smaller, so it's technically a downgrade. OK, likely a very small downgrade, but nevertheless. But the big thing that will be the most likely suspect is the change of the advance angle. That change could be equivalent to a substantial decrease in cam lobe duration. I haven't gone to the effort of trying to think about what your change would actually cause. But until someone (you, me (unlikely), Matt, someone else) does so and comes to a conclusion about the effect, it remains a possibility that that is the change that is causing what you're seeing.
    • The previous switchover point was 501mv. The stock value is like ~360. They now were idling at about ~880. The thing is, most people get a false lean condition. I am getting false rich conditions. This isn't a quirk of terminology, most cam upgraders get awful fuel economy because the O2's read false lean and add fuel - Mine are attempting to aggressively subtract fuel.
    • So... the whole idea was to upgrade the power of the motor from stock. The motor I bought with the gearbox had 'some' stuff done to it in the past, but it wasn't as well thought out/what I had wanted to do. The stock heads typically are a big restriction on LS's and need porting to unlock quite a lot of power. You can then go a bit silly with aftermarket castings to get more, aftermarket intake manifolds for a little more, and then porting those for more. <- We are here. Nobody in Australia really goes down this path (for some reason). It might* make 3kw or something more than doing things the tried and true path for 10X the cost. So that's probably why - I wouldn't even recommend it to people, the money was and is likely better spent on just CNC'ing the stock heads and putting a 6.3L stroker kit in. I didn't want to go down the 'normal' path and then think: But if I'd just done a bit more - I could have had a slightly better result. I assumed the heads were running out of flow and it always annoyed me - Turns out the previous installer advanced the cam 6 degrees so this is likely why it was coming on earlier and running out of puff earlier than advertised. The body panels were just lack of planning/no information on this anywhere on the internet and the fact they came out different was annoying. From test fitting the guard it appears I could have gotten away with GTR guards only, but I got the bonnet and raisers and everything else as well for a pretty decent package deal.
×
×
  • Create New...