Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I was thinking of building a portable fuel cell for running some hard parked cars.

Getting a plastic 5L fuel container. Glue it onto some aluminium checker plate. Then add a external fuel pump, fuel filter and pressure gauge. A breather on top. Power fuse, switch and input socket. Maybe have 8AN fittings for in an outs. Im looking for 8mm barb fittings that can be added to the tank. Using it in the engine bay. 

Anyone done anything similar or got ideas?

IMG20220711174122.thumb.jpg.21bf9d1273abba7957c84aa55361fb5b.jpg

On 11/07/2022 at 5:54 PM, QLDR31 said:

Hey guys,

I was thinking of building a portable fuel cell for running some hard parked cars.

Getting a plastic 5L fuel container. Glue it onto some aluminium checker plate. Then add a external fuel pump, fuel filter and pressure gauge. A breather on top. Power fuse, switch and input socket. Maybe have 8AN fittings for in an outs. Im looking for 8mm barb fittings that can be added to the tank. Using it in the engine bay. 

Anyone done anything similar or got ideas?

IMG20220711174122.thumb.jpg.21bf9d1273abba7957c84aa55361fb5b.jpg

The guy from Vice Grip Garage has one that he uses when starting up cars that have sat around

Basically cuts it into the fuel line in the engine bay and away you go,clean fresh fuel

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Good stuff.  Would be awesome if you could have it set to a timer where it circulated the fuel once a day to keep everything fresh.  Would be awesome for stopping E85 rotting the shit out of everything. 

On 7/30/2022 at 8:01 PM, Shoota_77 said:

Good stuff.  Would be awesome if you could have it set to a timer where it circulated the fuel once a day to keep everything fresh.  Would be awesome for stopping E85 rotting the shit out of everything. 

no need for fancy things like that, just drive the car more.

 

  • Like 1
On 7/30/2022 at 6:41 PM, QLDR31 said:

The fuel cell so far.

FuelCell_001.thumb.JPG.3e7f17d6015f33f57d4b8f996ca365f7.JPG

if you wanted to make it a bit more compact, could mount it all to that metal strap holding the jerry.

On 7/30/2022 at 9:07 PM, Shoota_77 said:

Ha ha, strong point. Hard to argue...

Well if want to get a bit fancy could use an arduino with a timing program controlling a relay for the pump and have a float switch for just in case theres a leak as safety.
A water trap and filter before the pump then a filter in the return to the jerry would be the best way as get any junk and remove the moisture.

Some good ideas.

I will be using it on my R31's. It can bolt onto where the drivers front guard normally is.

It could also bolt into the boot.

I am planning on having a tap on the fuel output and return. That way I can turn it off for transport.

Going to have a power switch, fuse, LED, power socket and relay.

I was thinking of also using EFI push on fuel fittings.

  • 2 weeks later...

image.thumb.jpeg.404c2e0d27cdc851c90dff0b722b7b6a.jpeg

I got my R31 TI (with RB25DE NEO) going with it today. I had a fuel leak from one of the Chinese brass bulkheads. I also blew a fuse on my fuel cell. I wasn't what fuse to run initially I used 7.5 amp, now its 10 amp. But got it going and managed to relocate the car with the fuel cell bolts to the guard position ;).

 

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...