R32 GT-R model year differences on ecu

[timmy94]

On 7/27/2022 at 11:05 PM, Duncan said:

It's worth noting that any tunable ECU will do what you need, but the PowerFC and Link G4 are direct plug in, while others like Haltech Elite will require custom wiring or an adapter at extra cost. Either way, the cost of tuning will be the same or more than the cost of the ECU, so you should find a tuner you trust first, and then buy the ECU they are familiar with.

PowerFC is very suitable for low-mid power like you are talking about, plug in and drive off, and very quick to tune because there are less parameters than more modern ECUs.

The problem with where you are right now is you are trying to work out a way forward based on what you have on your bench, rather than having a target power and buying the right parts to hit that. Any turbo more than about 10% bigger than standard requires many additional parts (and costs add up quickly).

If you are looking for a pretty much standard experience without unnecessary cost, I'd be getting the HKS turbos checked and putting them back on with a standard ECU, and run standard boost. Anything other path will be 10x or more the cost.

I did not want to tune this GT-R car because i do not trust tuners here haha. First time i tuned my S15 SR20 i had issues ever since with warnings with fuel ( Fuel cut almost everytime i put pedal to metal, they couldnt find a solution and i ended up spending alot of money on parts they told me to change like pumps, injectors, filters etc etc, but did not find the problem until i found it myself).

2ND time, for some reason they did not notice that the oil pressure was lost in time and the engine ran long enough to destroy everything. This ECU had saftey features/options/mechanism (idk, but i belive you understand) that could stop the engine as soon as oil level dropped or something else but for some reason they did not use any of those features? i dont know if that saftey thing could help in that situation but i got a bit dissapointed even though i was my fault, i should have checked the brackets for cracks. (The oilpressre was lost due to oilfilter became a bit loose from its bracket cause the bracket had a crack in it.)

 

well, thats was my goal to run everything standard for now until i have a better garage and when i know the car runs fine. BUT, since im in the situation i am right now, im trying to do the right thing. I could run the HKS ones and still get a tuneable ecu to make sure that everything is working fine since i clearly dont know whats been done to this engine so i do not run with a wierd and dangerous settings.

Thanks

 

[TurboTapin]

On 7/28/2022 at 3:48 AM, timmy94 said:

I did not want to tune this GT-R car because i do not trust tuners here haha. First time i tuned my S15 SR20 i had issues ever since with warnings with fuel ( Fuel cut almost everytime i put pedal to metal, they couldnt find a solution and i ended up spending alot of money on parts they told me to change like pumps, injectors, filters etc etc, but did not find the problem until i found it myself).

2ND time, for some reason they did not notice that the oil pressure was lost in time and the engine ran long enough to destroy everything. This ECU had saftey features/options/mechanism (idk, but i belive you understand) that could stop the engine as soon as oil level dropped or something else but for some reason they did not use any of those features? i dont know if that saftey thing could help in that situation but i got a bit dissapointed even though i was my fault, i should have checked the brackets for cracks. (The oilpressre was lost due to oilfilter became a bit loose from its bracket cause the bracket had a crack in it.)

 

well, thats was my goal to run everything standard for now until i have a better garage and when i know the car runs fine. BUT, since im in the situation i am right now, im trying to do the right thing. I could run the HKS ones and still get a tuneable ecu to make sure that everything is working fine since i clearly dont know whats been done to this engine so i do not run with a wierd and dangerous settings.

Thanks

 

Sell your GT2860's and HKS turbos. Purchase two stock turbos and stock ecu and call it a day then. 

[r32-25t]

That’s the worst advice I’ve seen so far 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

On 28/07/2022 at 5:48 PM, timmy94 said:

but for some reason they did not use any of those features?

You'll be surprised how many cars are out there with top notch ECUs but no engine protection enabled.

Either tuner was not bothered or customer was too tight to buy all the sensors.

[TXSquirrel]

Any used stock turbos and ECU you can find are likely not in working condition even if the seller claims they are.  So I say go with Link because you should be able to get a stock tune from Link.  Then find a pair of used stock turbos and have them rebuild, but that may end up costing more than simply buying a pair of new Garrett -7.  But either way you can recover some money by selling the Garrett -5 and mystery HKS.

[timmy94]

On 7/28/2022 at 3:14 PM, TXSquirrel said:

Any used stock turbos and ECU you can find are likely not in working condition even if the seller claims they are.  So I say go with Link because you should be able to get a stock tune from Link.  Then find a pair of used stock turbos and have them rebuild, but that may end up costing more than simply buying a pair of new Garrett -7.  But either way you can recover some money by selling the Garrett -5 and mystery HKS.

Sounds fair. I dont now if the this Link G4 i found is working in a condition or not, but since i could get it so cheap i guess it could be worth a try. I think i will have 12month warranty anyway.

 

I talked to a tuner again. -> " With these turbos you will use the OEM wastegate actuators on these turbos so the boost pressure will not change UNTIL we do the ECU tuning through an EBCS"These turbos are great for stock engines and do NOT need to be at 1.5 bar boost. Once you have the support ECU,sensor,injectors/pump the bone stock RB26 is very happy/making great power yet conservatively/safe at 15-18psi (1.1-1.3 bar) with pump gas. (I've tuned a lot of RB's over the years and the stock engines are still quite strong and ready for boost with the supporting mods/tuning/decent fuel) ". So seems to be an option there also. 

I simply have to find the best solution here for me, i will see what i can do with these -5 turbos. Otherwise, i will sell them and maybe get some -7 turbos if they arent too expensive.  Thanks for sharing some thoughts and tips.

 

[timmy94]

On 7/28/2022 at 2:57 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You'll be surprised how many cars are out there with top notch ECUs but no engine protection enabled.

Either tuner was not bothered or customer was too tight to buy all the sensors.

I actually dont know what happend, it did sound wierd when the tuner talked to me. They used a few liters of oil also and i asked why. They claimed they tried to find the oil leak afterward which sounds wierd cause the whole filter houseing and everything had came off so it was a big hole in the block where the filter sits. Sounds wierd that they had to fill the engine with oil to find that "small" leak..

[soviet_merlin]

On 28/07/2022 at 10:57 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You'll be surprised how many cars are out there with top notch ECUs but no engine protection enabled.

Either tuner was not bothered or customer was too tight to buy all the sensors.

Thank you for mentioning this! This hit a nerve and I feel personally called out even though it wasn't directed at anyone. Bumped it back to the top of the list of things to do on the car.

[Duncan]

Your tuner is correct that the -5 turbos will not change boost pressure if you use the original waste gate actuators (0.8 bar) and do not add a boost control solenoid.

However they are incorrect to imply the car will with all stock supporting systems (ECU, afm, injectors, fuel pump), because the larger turbos flow more air at the same boost, and airflow is how the ECU determines load. 

I think you should talk to someone else, and FWIW I think finding a pair of stock (original or rebuilt) standard turbos with the ECU you have is a good choice. A GTR with 300-400awkw will cost 000s and is great fun, but you seem to be satisfied with with standard and focussed on cost

 

[joshuaho96]

On 7/28/2022 at 8:47 AM, timmy94 said:

Sounds fair. I dont now if the this Link G4 i found is working in a condition or not, but since i could get it so cheap i guess it could be worth a try. I think i will have 12month warranty anyway.

 

I talked to a tuner again. -> " With these turbos you will use the OEM wastegate actuators on these turbos so the boost pressure will not change UNTIL we do the ECU tuning through an EBCS"These turbos are great for stock engines and do NOT need to be at 1.5 bar boost. Once you have the support ECU,sensor,injectors/pump the bone stock RB26 is very happy/making great power yet conservatively/safe at 15-18psi (1.1-1.3 bar) with pump gas. (I've tuned a lot of RB's over the years and the stock engines are still quite strong and ready for boost with the supporting mods/tuning/decent fuel) ". So seems to be an option there also. 

I simply have to find the best solution here for me, i will see what i can do with these -5 turbos. Otherwise, i will sell them and maybe get some -7 turbos if they arent too expensive.  Thanks for sharing some thoughts and tips.

 

Whatever tuner you’re talking to shouldn’t be trusted if they cannot understand a concept as basic as compressor efficiency. A bigger turbo will move more air at the same boost level. A GT2860R-7 will make less power than a GT2860R-5 running 0.7 bar of boost because the -5 compressor heats the air less during compression and thus moves more air mass.

If you want a simple solution with no tuning needed get new/rebuilt stock turbos and a stock R32 ECU and be done with it. Keep in mind that ceramic turbines are highly sensitive to detonation or physical shock so you must run at least 96 RON on the stock tune. Do not increase boost beyond 1 bar and inspect the turbo every few years for shaft play. Any shaft play can cause the ceramic turbine to hit the housing and cause a lot of damage.

[niZmO_Man]

Standard engine + turbo + ECU is fine for street driving (restrictors removed so you get about 12 psi).

But the GT-R is a completely different car even with just N1 engine tuned (as in, -9 turbos and tune).

[joshuaho96]

On 7/29/2022 at 5:55 AM, niZmO_Man said:

Standard engine + turbo + ECU is fine for street driving (restrictors removed so you get about 12 psi).

But the GT-R is a completely different car even with just N1 engine tuned (as in, -9 turbos and tune).

I agree, but it sounds like they can't find anyone who actually knows what they're doing? Kind of unfortunate really.

[ACTIVE-LSD]

On 7/27/2022 at 7:04 PM, BK said:

Dont do it, a factory power GTR is shit. No really- it is really, really shit. None of us bought a GTR to run the standard 160 -170kw at the wheel factory power output.

GTR comes alive at 300kw at wheels and up, which you me is where they should've been released at.

It's not even the power output on stock gtr but the engine response. after driving for a while the engine bay turns into a furnace. stock ecu then pulls timing and car turns into a nugget.