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NZ R33 Long Term Build


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  • 4 weeks later...

So things have been a little slow with the arrival of our twin girls 3 weeks ago…

in between feeds/nappy changes/sleep I have been slowly chipping away at the car. The engine harness is now complete and I have checked it all with a multimeter. I have tried to hide the harness as much as possible, with everything all mounted under the plenum.

last bits of wiring to do is the trigger sensor and inputs needed for cruise control.

24E254F8-5E69-4168-B342-0879A329CB2A.thumb.jpeg.213abc4a2c75b494cb7658d002d5c3fd.jpeg

I now have the ECU, IC-7, PDM, keypad and associated goodies ready to go in the car also.

I’m still a way off getting the car started, as I have also purchased (or about to purchase) other goodies:

- makomotosports dash mount

- walbro 460 pump and FPG billet top hat

- Spal pusher fan (to replace aircon fan)

- Hypergear SS2 turbo

- wireless CarPlay head unit

im really interested in replacing the old A/C condenser, but they are stupid money now.. I see FPG have complete A/C upgrade kits with new compressors and everything for only a little more than what people are asking for a new oem condenser.. @Dose Pipe Sutututudidnt you replace your condenser at some point? 

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Hi Rene, very nice build, could i ask a question of whats the distance from your throttle body flange to the end of the DWB TB and silicone adapter? i am wanting to convert my setup to DBW and want to see if it will fit within the existing piping space 

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2 hours ago, Looney_Head said:

Hi Rene, very nice build, could i ask a question of whats the distance from your throttle body flange to the end of the DWB TB and silicone adapter? i am wanting to convert my setup to DBW and want to see if it will fit within the existing piping space 

I will get the measurements when I am next to the car later.

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A little more progress:

- Mako Motorsport dash installed and IC7 mounted

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I read online about issues with the quality of their products (after I purchased it…), but I’m happy to report the quality of mine was great!

- I have ordered a FPG billet fuel top hat. I could have made the stock one work but I didn’t want to risk melted plugs etc.

- I have also ordered a @hyper-gear ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo with the plumb back dump and dump pipe combo. I’m looking forward to getting this!

- I have ordered a IEE.nz (check them out) ecu mount for the stock location and they are printing me a Haltech keypad holder like @Dose Pipe Sutututu for the old ash tray. They are also going to print me a better cup holder for the centre console that can hold a coffee cup nicely when hitting boost..

- I bought and installed a brand new OEM shifter surround. I have always had a series 1 surround, which has a more of a gloss finish as opposed to the series 2 matte finish. So now the interior feels completed

- I have also been working on all the factory power cables and grounds, with all new 0 gauge cables (overkill I know) being installed for engine grounds, power cables for the starter and alternator. The only one I haven’t replaced is the power cable from the fuse box to the battery in the boot (looks like a pain in the ass to do??).

 - Once the turbo is on I’ll get the cooling system filled up with demineralised water and new penrite 10tenths 10w40 oil, ready for the first start. Maybe I’ll get a fire extinguisher or two first…

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- all that’s left then will be mounting the ECU, minor wiring and hoping like he’ll it all works with out catching fire…

Question:

One wiring question I have is in regards to the AC, I noticed that the factory ECU is connected to the AC somehow and I want to ensure it’s functional with the Haltech. Does the factory ecu turn on the AC or was it only used as an input to up idle on IACV?

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3 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

One wiring question I have is in regards to the AC, I noticed that the factory ECU is connected to the AC somehow and I want to ensure it’s functional with the Haltech. Does the factory ecu turn on the AC or was it only used as an input to up idle on IACV?

Yes the Haltech still controls the A/C output :) 

Your HVAC system requests for the A/C to turn on, the ECU then determines when to output to the compressor relay (under certain TPS, under certain RPM, and when x% extra duty cycle is applied to the IACV). Since you're going DBW you just set an extra % the throttle needs to open. You'll find that with DBW it idles so much better than the OEM leaks valves.

This is what I've done to mine (needs quite a bit of duty cycle to idle as I have VCT enabled from idle to sound like a hard cnut lol)

image.thumb.png.9f74939ac4132c031a1aa342168b7f68.png

 

And I've added some delays so the idle stabilises first before the A/C compressor request is sent out from the Kebabtech

image.thumb.png.4cb83b914c49a497017aa6d77bc04144.png

And this is my zero demand timing table, as you can see with A/C on I've added quite a bit of timing to introduce more torque

image.thumb.png.8b60c9f9463ddf719cb6f177e82f6ca7.png

And you're wondering why there's a massive timing difference between 850 and 900? yeah that's for the hectic fully sick idle LOL

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9 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Yes the Haltech still controls the A/C output :) 

Your HVAC system requests for the A/C to turn on, the ECU then determines when to output to the compressor relay (under certain TPS, under certain RPM, and when x% extra duty cycle is applied to the IACV). Since you're going DBW you just set an extra % the throttle needs to open. You'll find that with DBW it idles so much better than the OEM leaks valves.

This is what I've done to mine (needs quite a bit of duty cycle to idle as I have VCT enabled from idle to sound like a hard cnut lol)

image.thumb.png.9f74939ac4132c031a1aa342168b7f68.png

 

And I've added some delays so the idle stabilises first before the A/C compressor request is sent out from the Kebabtech

image.thumb.png.4cb83b914c49a497017aa6d77bc04144.png

And this is my zero demand timing table, as you can see with A/C on I've added quite a bit of timing to introduce more torque

image.thumb.png.8b60c9f9463ddf719cb6f177e82f6ca7.png

And you're wondering why there's a massive timing difference between 850 and 900? yeah that's for the hectic fully sick idle LOL

Awesome, thanks!

Just as well as I got the PD16 as I have run out of AVI’s on the 2500…

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ECU mount from IEE arrived:

3EBC3EF4-E5EF-450E-81F7-2B6CA1BD0BA1.thumb.jpeg.c6bd673bee6febf0a3e07e089e8cea37.jpeg

which mounts the ecu nicely in the factory location.

The FPG fuel hat and Walbro 450 has also arrived:

58B6B146-7580-4845-8F76-B74E1C4B62BA.thumb.jpeg.63b28c063f93f6e567427da9e0303a32.jpeg

The fuel pump is powered from the PDM, so no more relay mods to get full voltage, makes wiring so much simpler!

Just a couple more wires to terminate in the cabin, then the wiring will be completed, so maybe this weekend I might even get to power up the ECU and PDM to start getting it all programmed (or at least attempt too..)

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Got the fuel pump and FPG top hat installed. I used the stock hanger to mount the pump on with some stainless hose clamps. 

85965A89-BA68-4D0A-A778-F9FDB1BF032F.thumb.jpeg.280fe8860c1587359a4e3f08686d2f3a.jpeg

The FPG hat is a really nice bit of gear, although a bit pricey.. pretty overkill for what my needs are but I just didn’t want to muck around trying to modify the stock plastic hat to suit the larger current draw of the pump. My only negative of the FPG hat is the stock cover doesn’t fit over the top now.

I also installed a new exhaust manifold gasket, all ready for the new turbo, which is hopefully a week or 2 away.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another minor update..

I have been pondering placement of the PD16 for some time..

I wanted somewhere that is not visible and does not involve cutting etc.. I had thought about the glove box, but I actually use that for junk and didn’t seem appropriate for high current electronics.. I was also thinking in the dash, mounted in or beneath the stereo brackets, but the haltech pre-terminated harness length wasn’t really suitable. I settled for behind the left hand passenger vent, which is perfect size, relatively close to the ecu and is well hidden. I also recycled an old factory ecu bracket to mount the wire and controller under the hvac.

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Just tossing up now if I buy a CAN hub or just make one by crimping cables together..

bugger all work has been done in the engine bay, other than painting heat shield silver to better match the cold side. Just waiting for the turbo to get it finished..

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I’m in Sydney for work not this week but next, so knowing my luck, the turbo will turn up when I’m gone, so will have to wait a little longer to get it in..

 

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The new turbo and wastegate have arrived today (thanks @hyper-gear). Still waiting for the dump pipe. I will attempt to connect all lines and drains on the weekend if I get some spare time. Note that the ATP catch can bracket had to be bent to get the wastegate to fit, nothing major.

starting to look more like a finished engine bay….

I have booked in with the fabricator early December for a full new exhaust, intercooler pipe work and turbo intake, so prior to that I have bought a cheap chinese front pipe to make the existing exhaust work. And I will use an assortment of silicon joiners and existing intercooler pipe to make it work for first startup...

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looks nice and stock-ish..

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  • 2 weeks later...

So rather than re-use all the old water and oil lines for the turbo, I thought I’d replace them all while I was there. I have since learnt that I hate making AN lines.. I purchased an Aeroflow RB turbo line kit (water and oil), on the assumption it would just be exactly what I needed.. and of course everything needed to be modified, as it was all way too long. I have a braided oil return line kit yet to go on also.

While I was away in Sydney this week, a couple of my goodies turned up:

- turbo dump pipe

26C70329-5056-4DA1-AB8D-AC6F53DAB622.thumb.jpeg.ebde6ea0acd78feaa288e7607a2ebb80.jpeg
this was part of the hypergear turbo kit and bolts up to factory style front pipes.

- keypad mount

E07E93D2-90C0-4A51-8EA9-BB11BC529B60.thumb.jpeg.a6ae00c92a4210cb867125149fdd20f4.jpeg

the keypad mount uses the clips for the ash tray, so it just slides in and clips into place, with no cutting etc. IEE.nz made this and it turned out top notch. If you want one, contact him via his website.

other than that I have purchased a nice new Aeroflow pod filter and 3” stainless bend for the sututus..

2D3FD7F2-7B8D-40EF-884D-8F28A41078C7.thumb.jpeg.42db313a54cf9d3902b9eaee1d7d76d4.jpeg

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

So I thought I had the loom 100%, then I went to hook up the AC relay and can’t find the wire in the cabin side of the loom (it’s in the bay side). So I’ll have to pull the loom out and find the cable.. otherwise I’m pretty stoked with the wiring effort (first time I have ever done any proper electrical work) . All tested up ok with a multimeter. Rather than buying a CAN hub through Haltech, I just chopped up all the CAN cables, crimped and heat-shrunk them to daisy chain all the add-ons together, here’s hoping it works…

I bought a new turbosmart race port BOV to be installed, which is required for the hypergear warranty..

The most important mod this week will be passenger and driver side fire extinguishers. These will be mounted under the seat, on the rails. I’m also still unhappy with the turbo water lines, so bought some more AN fittings (I’d hate to add up the costs of AN fittings).

car should be going to the fabricator in the next week for the folllowing:

- full exhaust - I will be going for a twin tip exhaust rather than a big cannon, as i like the more stock(ish) look

- all new 2.5” SS (I heard SS is better for heat soak?) intercooler piping, unsure if I will go silicon clamps or the plazmaman style clamps. If I go plazmaman I may have a delay as I’ll need to get the right TB adapter. I think the greddy intercooler will be fine for what I need

- new 3” SS turbo intake. 

- a couple of minor cosmetic tweaks to the cam covers and coil cover (I run 20det covers, so want to remove the slight dip under where the TB used to sit and remove all mounts for the igniter etc on the coil cover). Should make it look nice and clean

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14 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

The most important mod this week will be passenger and driver side fire extinguishers. These will be mounted under the seat, on the rails.

How are you mounting them? If you haven't made up your mind yet, there are some custom made brackets for sale on the forums that mount under the seat. The topic is a few years old but they still make them and I just received mine one or two weeks ago. Haven't put it in yet though. They have them in stock again now.

See this post for details:

 

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5 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:

How are you mounting them? If you haven't made up your mind yet, there are some custom made brackets for sale on the forums that mount under the seat. The topic is a few years old but they still make them and I just received mine one or two weeks ago. Haven't put it in yet though. They have them in stock again now.

See this post for details:

 

I didn’t see that. I found a crowd in aus called RB factory that make R33 specific ones:

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B60815B5-CD79-427C-A3B2-8939366BB7B2.thumb.webp.31404d9e4d10e6352c6ce79e95d58240.webp

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