NZ R33 Long Term Build

[soviet_merlin]

6 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

I didn’t see that. I found a crowd in aus called RB factory that make R33 specific ones

Hah, and I didn't see yours when I was looking for some. Looks like it's a similar idea / design.

It's one reason why I like reading the build threads here. Like for example the custom ashtray keypad mount you mentioned a few posts earlier went straight on the maybe-one-day-santa-list

[R3N3]

13 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:

Hah, and I didn't see yours when I was looking for some. Looks like it's a similar idea / design.

It's one reason why I like reading the build threads here. Like for example the custom ashtray keypad mount you mentioned a few posts earlier went straight on the maybe-one-day-santa-list

Yeah, to be fair I stole the idea from @Dose Pipe Sutututu . The mount is great, it even uses the ashtray spring clips to hold it in place. I’ll get him to update his website to include it (if he hasn’t already).

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

1 hour ago, R3N3 said:

Yeah, to be fair I stole the idea from @Dose Pipe Sutututu . The mount is great, it even uses the ashtray spring clips to hold it in place. I’ll get him to update his website to include it (if he hasn’t already).

I like yours more though, the one I have is a bit rough around the edges and is a friction fit. I had to use foam tape to stop it flying out on hard acceleration.

The one I have has no provision to easily swap over the spring clips from the ashtray.

[Looney_Head]

19 hours ago, R3N3 said:

No worries, how did you choose to adapt dbw?

i'm still VH45 TB for now. i need to fix my miss fire that has developed since fixing replacing my head gasket and changing coils

[R3N3]

So while planning the loom fix for the A/C relay, I thought why not just ditch the relay and power from PDM? It will definitely simplify things and free up an output on the haltech.

my basic understanding of the A/C system (based on vehicle wiring diagrams):

- A/C controller sends signal to ecu (pin 46)

- ecu provides 12v out to engine bay (pin 9)

- 12v from ecu goes via the pressure switch (canister near radiator)?

- pressure switch then enables A/C and auxiliary fan relays, turning on compressor and fan when water temp gets hot?

Based on this, just simply running an 8A output to compressor would seem to bypass pressure switch, witch doesn’t seem like a good idea? I’d need to wire the pressure switch with 12v and an AVI to create a rule to then switch compressor on?

Edited December 17, 2022 by R3N3

[Duncan]

This is the r32 wiring (I don't have the r33 one handy), but likely the same or similar.

The diagram is not clear that ECU pin 9 to pressure switch is +, but it later states that.

So, to move AC to a PDM control just output the AC signal on pin 9 as standard, and run your PDM output to the AC relay, the you keep the pressure switch input to stop it trying to overfill.

Alternatively it you really don't want the relay you need to connect the pressure switch to ground on one side and a spare DPI on the other. Then connect the PDM output to the compressor directly. Then setup the ECU to use that DPI as a condition to turn on the AC output.

Keep in mind that is only half the AC control. The other half depends on what the climate control is set at.

 

[R3N3]

2 hours ago, Duncan said:

This is the r32 wiring (I don't have the r33 one handy), but likely the same or similar.

The diagram is not clear that ECU pin 9 to pressure switch is +, but it later states that.

So, to move AC to a PDM control just output the AC signal on pin 9 as standard, and run your PDM output to the AC relay, the you keep the pressure switch input to stop it trying to overfill.

Alternatively it you really don't want the relay you need to connect the pressure switch to ground on one side and a spare DPI on the other. Then connect the PDM output to the compressor directly. Then setup the ECU to use that DPI as a condition to turn on the AC output.

Keep in mind that is only half the AC control. The other half depends on what the climate control is set at.

 

This is what I was thinking, although may be out of my depth wiring/programming wise… I will add the necessary wires into my loom (and not bin the relays just yet) and then give it a go. At least it’s pretty simple to go back to the factory method.

here is a snip from the R33 wiring diagram:

this was a screenshot from the iPhone, so quality may not be the best..

Edited December 18, 2022 by R3N3

[R3N3]

Wiring loom is now complete, with ECU turning on and no fires or fried electronics to be seen… The IC-7 is also working nicely with the indicators, screen dimming with lights on, park brake etc. all working nicely. All the factory vehicle functions that were patched in work nicely too!  

I have upgraded the ECU to the latest NSP software, started with a haltech R33 base map and am in the process of allocating all I/O’s and checking sensor tables etc.

on its way from Brisbane is the FPG fan shroud and fitting kit, where I will run the 3000cfm SPAL fan via the PDM, which will replace the factory clutch fan.

now just counting down for all the fab work then the tune..

[R3N3]

So, been playing around setting all the I/O’s and the only one issue I have is the throttle body will not calibrate.. it’s throwing a ‘P2109’ fault code.. will touch base with haltech to try sort.

other than that, everything is good! All that’s needed now is to re-make the turbo oil and water lines (not happy with first attempt). Then I will double check all bolts/fittings before putting fluids in.

a couple of pics of the finished interior:

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

double, triple check your DBW TB wiring, there are some models the pins are reversed for whatever reason, also do the same on the pedal.

Can you get a screen of all your voltages?

[R3N3]

33 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

double, triple check your DBW TB wiring, there are some models the pins are reversed for whatever reason, also do the same on the pedal.

Can you get a screen of all your voltages?

Ok. The pedal calibrates fine though?

below is a screen pic of when the throttle calibration is running:

its applying duty cycle (and it’s audible) but the throttle barely moves (not even to the fully closed position).

to verify the throttle wasn’t stuck, I physically moved it, with the below results:

It shows the TPS itself (middle graph) is working fine? And the top graph is plotting the APP (pedal press was independent to throttle calibration).

thoughts?

Edited January 5, 2023 by R3N3

[R3N3]

2 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

Ok. The pedal calibrates fine though?

below is a screen pic of when the throttle calibration is running:

its applying duty cycle (and it’s audible) but the throttle barely moves (not even to the fully closed position).

to verify the throttle wasn’t stuck, I physically moved it, with the below results:

It shows the TPS itself (middle graph) is working fine? And the top graph is plotting the APP (pedal press was independent to throttle calibration).

thoughts?

Also for shits and giggles I switched the pins for the motor + and - at the ecu connector to see if it made a difference. No bueno.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

hmmm

I see that APP1 vs APP2 has difference voltages, they "should" be nearly the same.

Maybe try borrow another pedal from someone or from someone's nan's Nissan X-Trail lolol...

[R3N3]

38 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

hmmm

I see that APP1 vs APP2 has difference voltages, they "should" be nearly the same.

Maybe try borrow another pedal from someone or from someone's nan's Nissan X-Trail lolol...

I thought they are supposed to be offset by approx 50% for fail safe? Would the pedal cause the throttle calibration issues?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

15 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

I thought they are supposed to be offset by approx 50% for fail safe? Would the pedal cause the throttle calibration issues?

I better look at mine running again, I just pulled up old logs and saw the same voltage for APP 1 and 2.

[R3N3]

3 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I better look at mine running again, I just pulled up old logs and saw the same voltage for APP 1 and 2.

Ok, I was just reading some googles that said they are offset.. I’m definitely no expert! I’m running a 370z pedal if that makes any difference.. thanks for your help!

[R3N3]

36 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I better look at mine running again, I just pulled up old logs and saw the same voltage for APP 1 and 2.

I have just unplugged the pedal connector and checked the voltages supplied to both APP circuits with a multimeter. Both are getting 5v, so that rules out any of my dodgy wiring (to those pins anyway).

[r32-25t]

I always thought one was supposed to go from 0>5v and the other goes from 5>0v 

[R3N3]

1 minute ago, r32-25t said:

I always thought one was supposed to go from 0>5v and the other goes from 5>0v 

Yes, my TPS’ are indeed showing inverted voltages.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

I always thought one was supposed to go from 0>5v and the other goes from 5>0v 

On the throttle yes, not the pedal