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14 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Haha modernisation, making it less 90s.

Yes, next on the modernisation list is the A/C.. FPG have released their R33 kits, so will acquire soon.

also, FPG fan shroud and electric fan work amazing. Rock solid at 78/79 degrees.

  • Like 1

That's fantastic, when my OEM fan/clutch dies again, the lot is going into the bin and I'll get the same kit as yours!

I'll probably however adapt a Volvo or similar OEM SSR and PWM the fan. Would be super porno as it ramps it and out vs. coolant temp and/or vehicle speed.

Pure sex.

  • Like 1
On 4/7/2023 at 11:53 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

That's fantastic, when my OEM fan/clutch dies again, the lot is going into the bin and I'll get the same kit as yours!

I'll probably however adapt a Volvo or similar OEM SSR and PWM the fan. Would be super porno as it ramps it and out vs. coolant temp and/or vehicle speed.

Pure sex.

Yes, I have my fan set against coolant temp, but I should also play around with a speed axis too..

I finally got the cruise control going today, it’s about 90% there. For some reason I had to have separate buttons for enable and disable. The speed also seems to drop straight after I hit the set button. I posted on the Haltech FB page (so dumb they got rid of the forums), apparently a PID issue?? Either way, it was very cool using cruise control in the skyline!

  • Like 1
11 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

That's awesome!

Yeah I saw your post, I suppose it's similar to closed loop boost control tuning.

I haven't set mine up (ran out of inputs) so unable to provide any guidance.

Have you set up throttle blip?

Just now, R3N3 said:

Have you set up throttle blip?

Not yet, a few things on my to do list, finding time/motivation is hard lol.

I assuming this would need the brake input (also required for cruise), once I wire up the brake & clutch inputs I'll set it up as well.

  • 4 weeks later...

Took the car today to its first track outing.. drove to and from the track (about 45mins each way) and gave it a good thrash on the track. The event was a powercruise type event, so got to race against a variety of cars and the 33 held it’s ground well.

no issues whatsoever for the day and cruise control there and back was awesome..

Pretty stoked that Haltech invited me into their garage.

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  • Like 6

Day 2 at the track and the one thing that needs attention is the brakes. Under heavy braking, there was quit a bit of vibration and the steering wheel ‘shuddering’, maybe I warped the discs?

I don’t necessarily want to do a full brake replacement (ie big brake kits) but was thinking of upgrading the discs and pads. Maybe DBA 4000 all round and some decent pads?

  • Like 1

Decent pads go a long way, and DBA4000 rotors are great, they seem to withstand heat cycling and not warp as easy as other cheaper brands.

I personally avoid getting slotted but that's my personal preference.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The RB20 cam covers have been dropped off to get the slight depressions on each side filled in with weld and the valley cover is also getting shaved/welded up to remove the igniter mounts.

Id love a set of the r31 finned covers but people want billet cover money for them. I contemplated the PRP ones but none of the aftermarket ones have provisions for a coil cover.

Now I’m just tossing up what colour to paint the covers and whether I paint the intercooler piping..

Edited by R3N3
  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...

When I wired in the ECU I had a glimpse of a pretty bad car alarm install. The giveaway was the central locking solenoid wire was just passed through the door jam and fed through the door card…

So today I set about tidying the alarm up and while I was at it, run some new speaker cable through the door loom (and plugs) for future audio upgrades.

The state of the alarm:

IMG_1451.thumb.jpeg.cc20bc685bcf3ace6648621eb4dca89e.jpeg

Im surprised my car never caught fire, there was exposed dodgy solder joints and just wires twisted together.. I contemplated removing it altogether, as the starter is now controlled via the PD16, so there is no starter wire at the key barrel.

The new speaker cabling is a real pain in the ass to do! I will use the old speaker cable in the door and loom for the central locking actuator.

IMG_1450.jpeg

photo of finished speaker cable install (just need to feed through grommet to inside the door).

Edited by R3N3
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Yeah some of the aftermarket alarms installs are terrifying. My Stagea has had 2 different ones in addition to factory remote start.....on day I'll take the dash out and fix it all properly.

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Luckily most modern cars come with semi-decent deterrent devices so no need for these monkeys to hack up factory looms.

So many alarm installs use those stupid blue splice clips or half penetrated solder. Like if you're going to pull out a fking soldering iron, at least let it penetrate the join or splice.

I've redone all the alarms in all the previous shit boxes I've owned, I don't know how these buffoons even called themselves "professionals".

1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Luckily most modern cars come with semi-decent deterrent devices so no need for these monkeys to hack up factory looms.

So many alarm installs use those stupid blue splice clips or half penetrated solder. Like if you're going to pull out a fking soldering iron, at least let it penetrate the join or splice.

I've redone all the alarms in all the previous shit boxes I've owned, I don't know how these buffoons even called themselves "professionals".

Yup.

I actually think that removing the starter control from the key barrel is likely to be more secure than most alarms. I think if you knew what you were doing, you could quite quickly bypass the alarm and hot wire the car.

1 minute ago, R3N3 said:

I think if you knew what you were doing, you could quite quickly bypass the alarm and hot wire the car.

They do you a favour by tracing the kill points for you to the alarm 😂

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

The 20 covers have been shaved ready for painting:

IMG_1488.thumb.jpeg.454932edc09cf83942cc6ef9d2e09237.jpeg
im still deciding on a paint/colour scheme. I always thought I’d keep it silver but red covers never look bad… I’m thinking wrinkle red cam covers and wrinkle black timing belt cover and coil cover. I will also repaint the exhaust manifold heat shield in black and powder coat the fuel rail black too.

I ran out of brass crimps for the last of the alarm tidying, so just waiting for these to arrive. I also ordered some Dynamat to soundproof the interior. @Dose Pipe Sutututu I did have this planned, I’m not just copying everything you do…

  • Like 1

They say copying one person is plagiarism, copying many is research and development.

So if we look at most 90s shit boxes that are owned by people over the age of 30, generally they would have or in the process of sound deadening to make their cars less shit by increasing the comfort levels.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1

So I purchase the Haltech tyre pressure monitor kit. Originally I purchased the external valve cap one, but they were rather large and would look ugly on the nice new meisters.. so I exchanged for the internal one. However, when it came to fitting them, the valve size used on the meisters is smaller than normal, so they don’t fit. I now need to drill the hole for the valve to be larger in my nice new wheels..

They are now on the CBF pile and will sort one day when I can be bothered.

  • Sad 1

So today I got painting my rocker covers. There was a last minute change with the colours after I consulted with my 7yr old son:

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loving the look of the shaved/smoothed covers!

I buggered up the timing cover (which will also be black) as I got a little too trigger happy with the heat gun… So I will try and re-do it tomorrow.

Edited by R3N3
  • Like 4

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