NZ R33 Long Term Build

[R3N3]

Painting completed

I got a stainless fuse box cover bent and welded up too.

[R3N3]

Sound deadening is nearly complete. I managed to use 3x sheets of Dynamat for each door. Lined the complete inner and outer skin.

I will be doing under the back seat and parcel tray next. Hopefully that reduces the fuel pump noise considerably..

Speakers amp and subs are next on the list for purchasing

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Very nicely done!

Somewhat slowly becoming a M3 lol.

Nek minnit BMW DCT

[R3N3]

Minor update:

Fueling:

I have decided to add E85/100 into the mix for a bit more power, so I purchased an ethanol content sensor.

I have also never been happy with my fuel plumbing/filter arrangement, so I am going to purchase a nice IDF750 fuel filter like @Murray_Calavera. Once it’s all here I will work out how to package it all neatly so it’s not that visible in the engine bay.

ECU:

Haltech have released new firmware for the Elite ECU and they have a new MAP prediction for tuning idle @Dose Pipe Sutututu not sure if I explained that right? Anyway, idle is now amazing and so smooth.

Throttle blip is now 95% there! I was driving round with the laptop this morning doing some tuning (keyboard mashing more like it) to figure some things out.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Nice!

Looks like it works well, Andy from Haltech must have pushed for that. It allows compensation for when port velocity is so low fuel that is sprayed is turned into a fuel film.

I think it's called x-tau in other ECU

[R3N3]

3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Nice!

Looks like it works well, Andy from Haltech must have pushed for that. It allows compensation for when port velocity is so low fuel that is sprayed is turned into a fuel film.

I think it's called x-tau in other ECU

Definitely better than the classic one.

i have also been toying with rotational idle (for wank factor) and launch control. Any tips for launch control ie. Ignition v injector cut etc?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

2 hours ago, R3N3 said:

have also been toying with rotational idle (for wank factor)

If you want good brap idle, just have VCT enabled from 700rpm onwards and lower the idle timing in your zero demand table. I have it bouncing between 20 and 8 degrees LOL.

In terms of launch, I really haven't dialled it in as I just use the rolling anti lag switch for launch. That blankets retards 18° of timing and with ignition and fuel cut 100rpm over target. Gives me a little over 1bar of boost at 4500rpm or about 1.3bar at 5000rpm on a roll. Good for those cruise days at SMSP, and shooting flames lol.

[R3N3]

4 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

If you want good brap idle, just have VCT enabled from 700rpm onwards and lower the idle timing in your zero demand table. I have it bouncing between 20 and 8 degrees LOL.

In terms of launch, I really haven't dialled it in as I just use the rolling anti lag switch for launch. That blankets retards 18° of timing and with ignition and fuel cut 100rpm over target. Gives me a little over 1bar of boost at 4500rpm or about 1.3bar at 5000rpm on a roll. Good for those cruise days at SMSP, and shooting flames lol.

Dumb question…How can you change vct switching points with a keypad button?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

6 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

Dumb question…How can you change vct switching points with a keypad button?

I don't think you can easily, unless you get creative and set up a Generic output condition to override it.

I just have mine turn from 50°C onwards, car struggles to idle with it on when it's cold lol.

[R3N3]

So the quest for “comfort” continues…

The cabin always smells like fumes… I have a feeling that this is due to the VTA catch can setup I have (not a legality issue NZ), as the ATP can puts it right against the firewall, right next to where the HVAC draws air from (well I think anyway). 

I have removed the charcoal canister (not legally required to my knowledge) and cut the lines under the car, which may also be contributing?

I have noticed that ATPerformance do a re-circ version of their catch can, so I will get that and hopefully that helps.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

4 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

I have removed the charcoal canister (not legally required to my knowledge) and cut the lines under the car, which may also be contributing?

put a small valve there, something that cracks after 0.1bar of pressure, if not you'll always smell fuel as the fuel tank breathes.

I have a one way valve, that cracks open at 0.1bar, some eBay junk. Stops the smell in the garage.

[Duncan]

Agreed, cut lines (very common) will be an uncontrolled fuel vapour leak, add a valve...

[R3N3]

@Dose Pipe Sutututu and @Duncan sorry to be a pain, any chance you could link an example? I did some googling but not sure I’m looking at the right thing..

[Duncan]

I used this - good quality, right line size

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285274883790

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Something like this:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/373980625436

Has 0.2bar opening pressure.

Fuel tank -> Check Valve -> VTA 

[R3N3]

@Dose Pipe Sutututu and @Duncan, thank you!

[MBS206]

Dose and Duncan, do you guys ever have issues where that valve has vented during a warm day, and then at night the tank has cooled and contracted?

Issues I could imagine might be the old fuel cap hard to get off as a main thought you could see.

 

My understanding is the fuel cap is sealed, or is it meant to vent and allow air into the tank to stop vacuum situations?

[Duncan]

6 hours ago, MBS206 said:

 

 

My understanding is the fuel cap is sealed, or is it meant to vent and allow air into the tank to stop vacuum situations?

Yeah fuel caps allow air in when the tank is under vacuum, otherwise you create a big vacuum as the fuel gets used. Also, as Dose said any fuel vent should have a little spring pressure in it, you are meant to get that pshft when you open the fuel cap on a properly working system

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

7 hours ago, MBS206 said:

Dose and Duncan, do you guys ever have issues where that valve has vented during a warm day, and then at night the tank has cooled and contracted?

Issues I could imagine might be the old fuel cap hard to get off as a main thought you could see.

 

My understanding is the fuel cap is sealed, or is it meant to vent and allow air into the tank to stop vacuum situations?

Old school fuel caps do I fact seal the fuel filler neck, however there's a vent elsewhere.

As of the 80s ish fuel caps started to incorporate 1x way valves to allow air in as Duncan has described.

[R3N3]

So I have managed to track down some finned RB covers for a reasonable-ish price (think half a crack rock instead of a full one).. These will be getting the same weld treatment, as there is breaks in the fins to fit the intake pipe over the top..

also on the weekend, I completed the sound deadening behind the back seat and on the parcel shelf. It’s times like these you realise how small cars of this era are..

While I was at it and the rear suspension top hats were accessible, I clicked the adjustable suspension to its softest….. but I still cringe when I see speed bumps in car parks..