Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Also, i think that the finned RB cam covers I purchased are not the genuine rb20 red top finned ones. I believe they are standard 20 covers that have been milled very slightly to create the raised fins… Im not sure if the guy I bought them off even knew, however, the fact they didn’t come with a matching valley cover is now a bit of a give away..

Anyway, annoying as it is, they are still a unique piece and they were modified very well, so I will get them painted up and put on the car. Now to chose the paint color…

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

I have been stuck into house renos every spare minute I’ve had lately, so the skyline has been neglected in the garage..

I have decided not to run the finned cam covers and sold them, I just wasn’t 100% happy with them. I also got scammed on FB market place, where I thought I had purchased a nice condition boot interior. So fair to say enthusiasm to work on the car has been low anyway..

it’s raining today and the kids are out of the house, so I thought I’d find some motivation and finish up the A/C install:

IMG_2515.thumb.jpeg.38f83758d169e5a617ceadaa8c1451f4.jpeg

IMG_2517.thumb.jpeg.30573e9da767c5af22f4fda7e5f2ef9b.jpeg

IMG_2518.thumb.jpeg.bd0fc0bac06f056c708e98e14a6d8e54.jpeg

IMG_2519.thumb.jpeg.41debf162099f35bd68cbc1b664e7e36.jpeg

I gave the bonnet latch and bracket a paint black, as it was pretty ugly and so it’s less visible through the grill. The compressor is so much smaller and lighter than the old OEM unit. I also had to modify one of the AC hard lines, as it was fouling on the wastegate down-pipe. This isn’t a criticism of the FPG kit, as there is no way he could allow for every turbo/wastegate/exhaust combo out there.  I actually think it sits nicer this way now anyway, as the lines sit nice and parallel against the wheel arch.

I think the favourite purchase is the purchase of the bonnet prop/stay clip, as my car has never had one in my ownership..

 

  • Like 3

AC is now all wired up. The fan switch and pressure switch are hooked up as inputs via the ECU and the compressor is an 8A HCO via the PDM. I’m assuming I need to set the pressure and fan switches as generic switches/inputs? And then have some conditions to switch the fan and compressor on/off?

engine bay all buttoned back up:

IMG_2523.thumb.jpeg.a71a9453f008d71e98358565ac68d007.jpeg

I ordered a TAARKS power steering pump AN10 fitting, as I’m thinking I’ll mount the power steering reservoir in the airbox, to tidy up the bay a bit more.

i have also noticed some brake fluid leaking around the reservoir of the BMC, so hopefully nothing serious. I’ll be flushing all the fluid and replacing when I do the rotors and pads.

in other news, I have booked a conference in Sapporo Japan at the end of August, so I have given myself three full days in Tokyo, so feel free to provide recommendations on where to go. The Nismo factory/showroom is top of the list so far.

 

The pressure switch should be inline with the + (I assume, or possibly the -) to the compressor. PDM can supply it power at all times when AC switch is on and throttle is less than say 80%, the pressure switch will just cut the circuit any time its threshold is reached.

3 minutes ago, Duncan said:

The pressure switch should be inline with the + (I assume, or possibly the -) to the compressor. PDM can supply it power at all times when AC switch is on and throttle is less than say 80%, the pressure switch will just cut the circuit any time its threshold is reached.

At this stage I have wired so the pressure switch and fan switch are separate switched inputs in the ECU. I have then provided an 8A output direct to the compressor for switching.  However, I do like your way, as it would mean one less input needed.. maybe if I run out I’ll switch it.

are there any other conditions you would turn compressor off? Launch control active etc?

  • 3 months later...
On 19/05/2023 at 1:39 PM, R3N3 said:

Here are the final dyno reports for each boost setting:

wastegate spring (7psi):

ReneNielsenFAD745Wastegatespringpressure.thumb.jpg.42bcd5fe29581981ae4a9ed83f0f144e.jpg

note that gate pressure sees the boost creep up to 12psi.

12 psi:

ReneNielsenFAD74513psi.thumb.jpg.79d0915980082dfcb697e931e42cb452.jpg

15psi:

ReneNielsenFAD74516psi.thumb.jpg.e2bab653d26135b93d8e54e20ed632db.jpg

20psi:

ReneNielsenFAD74520psi.thumb.jpg.81bfc922492c5e8bc129ba6d1bf942ca.jpg

Went for a quick drive up and down the street after the tow truck dropped the car off and man it is nice. The sound of the turbo, exhaust, intake and BOV is just so nice! The power feels so linear in how its delivered. 

 

The turbo, is the rear housing .82?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
    • So I'm in the final stages of assembling my single turbo RB30/26 and had a question regarding MAP reference points.  I've seen several recommendations such as tapping the cylinder 2/3 ITB, tapping the intake manifold at cylinder 2/3, or using a point on IAC. First two are doable but require permanently modify part and the third is "out" as I plan to delete the IAC.  All that to say my question is can I used the "bleeder" in the center of the ballance tube as a MAP Reference? I'm running a catch can so I don't need it for the PCV system. My thought process is it "pulls" from all 6 cylinder, and it's between the ITB and the cylinders making it ideal for MAP reference according to what I can find. Thoughts?
×
×
  • Create New...