Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 12/11/2022 at 6:13 AM, joshuaho96 said:

It’s probably fine unless you actively tried to get it deep into boost and hold it just short of where it started misfiring. The danger is when you get deep into boost and it’s rich enough to ignite reliably but lean enough to get dangerously hot and knock-happy. If you just floored it and let it sit at the misfire limit you probably didn’t blow up your engine. The stock Haltech base map has even less timing than the stock ECU tune. 

That’s relieving to hear. I can sleep better at night now. 
 

what happened is that I was in the car with my buddy while he was on the computer. 
 

we were driving and he would change some setting and ask me to try it, then I would try to floor it but it wouldn’t go past 4000 rpm’s so I let off. 

 

we did that about 20 minutes, then I realized that he didn’t know what he was doing so we stopped 

  • Haha 1
  • Sad 1

I would say it's probably not fine at all. This is one of those things where when you open a laptop and notice your load source is at 0.0PSI and you know that is absolutely not possible with the engine running and idling that you go and find out why because anything else you do will not function.

If the car is still running, well, it's as damaged (or undamaged) as it can be. It all comes down to how close your ... 0PSI and (???) RPM load cell is tuned relative to the conditions the car was running in. Which is .... abysmal. Cars do not have a 1x1 load map. Who knows what the timing is set at 0psi and (???) rpm. Maybe the tacho is correct and it was going up and down in the 0psi table.

There's quite a lot of documentation on the Haltech end, I would advise reading it if not done already because tuning is fun. But you gotta make sure what the ECU is seeing is what is actually occurring in the motor or expensive metal sadness will result in short order.

  • Like 1

I kind of disagree with that; if the car is currently idling fine then it is fine. You could do a compression test to check but most likely there will be no issue.

In practice, if you floor it with no load axis, you will go past the (very narrow) window where it might ping and straight into the engine can't fire at all (ie missfire). We often hit that narrow window when tuning because it is such a precise process and we are looking for the maximum timing the engine can take (in most cases), but when you are miles outside the window like this it just doesn't run at all

1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

I would say it's probably not fine at all. This is one of those things where when you open a laptop and notice your load source is at 0.0PSI and you know that is absolutely not possible with the engine running and idling that you go and find out why because anything else you do will not function.

If the car is still running, well, it's as damaged (or undamaged) as it can be. It all comes down to how close your ... 0PSI and (???) RPM load cell is tuned relative to the conditions the car was running in. Which is .... abysmal. Cars do not have a 1x1 load map. Who knows what the timing is set at 0psi and (???) rpm. Maybe the tacho is correct and it was going up and down in the 0psi table.

There's quite a lot of documentation on the Haltech end, I would advise reading it if not done already because tuning is fun. But you gotta make sure what the ECU is seeing is what is actually occurring in the motor or expensive metal sadness will result in short order.

Pretty sure the base map is a weird one, one of the tables is TPS vs RPM only, another is MAP vs RPM only. I'd have to check to be sure but it's one of those things where even though a lot of bad things were done the holes in the system definitely maybe probably didn't all line up to cause a catastrophic failure. I would be nervous if this was a rotary engine though, those can die from a single knock event.

4 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Pretty sure the base map is a weird one, one of the tables is TPS vs RPM only, another is MAP vs RPM only. I'd have to check to be sure but it's one of those things where even though a lot of bad things were done the holes in the system definitely maybe probably didn't all line up to cause a catastrophic failure. I would be nervous if this was a rotary engine though, those can die from a single knock event.

Yeah fuel load is TPS and ignition load is MAP. Fuel load is generally changed to MAP when moving to a single throttle.

I find it incredible your mate who doesn't know shit from anything would just have a crack adjusting random things. Driving with no MAP line connected on an ecu that uses MAP as load source is insane.

I would slap him.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To be fair passengers who aren't silly and have been in proper fast cars have often been pretty impressed once you hit 4th gear   
    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
×
×
  • Create New...