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RS4V Suspension

SLIXK

By SLIXK,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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soviet_merlin Experienced

soviet_merlin

Posted
Posted

Not sure, but I'd bet on it being discussed before. The forum search isn't great but with search engines it works much better:

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=stagea+coilovers+site%3Asau.com.au&t=fpas&ia=web

 

One thing I'd suggest to consider is fitting some adjustable camber arms in the rear whilst it's all apart. Not sure if it's universal, but on mine it was wearing off the insides of the tyres in the back after fitting coilovers. Enough so that it got flagged in a roadworthy check.

I ended up getting "ZSS Rear Upper Camber Arms (Hardened Rubber) - S14/S15/R33/R34/C34/C35 × 1" from justjap and they seem fine.

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GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

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On 8/23/2022 at 10:20 AM, soviet_merlin said:

One thing I'd suggest to consider is fitting some adjustable camber arms in the rear whilst it's all apart. Not sure if it's universal, but on mine it was wearing off the insides of the tyres in the back after fitting coilovers. Enough so that it got flagged in a roadworthy check.

I ended up getting "ZSS Rear Upper Camber Arms (Hardened Rubber) - S14/S15/R33/R34/C34/C35 × 1" from justjap and they seem fine.

Except that you really shouldn't do camber arms on their own without doing the radius arms also. And you shouldn't do radius arms without knowing how to make and use a bump steer gauge to make sure that you dial out the increased bump steer that you will put into the rear end by simply changing the length of the camber arms. I have posted extensively on this subject before.

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soviet_merlin Experienced

soviet_merlin

Posted
Posted
On 23/08/2022 at 1:04 PM, GTSBoy said:

Except that you really shouldn't do camber arms on their own without doing the radius arms also. And you shouldn't do radius arms without knowing how to make and use a bump steer gauge to make sure that you dial out the increased bump steer that you will put into the rear end by simply changing the length of the camber arms. I have posted extensively on this subject before.

Hmmmm, thanks for chiming in! That is both good to know and a bit concerning. I know little about this, but my simpleton's impression was that lowering the car messes with the alignment and the camber arms help to undo some of that misalignment. Is that not true?

What effect does bump steer in the rear have? It makes sense on the front tyres to me, but I can't really picture it for the rear.

 

PS: If in doubt @SLIXK, listen to GTSBoy and disregard what I said.

PPS: If anyone has some search magic on hand to find GTSBoy's posts specifically I'd be interested in that.

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GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

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Just search GTSBoy bump steer.

 

The kinematics of the wheel are controlled by the arcs that the upper, lower and radius arms move through.

You're already up to speed with what happens if you just drop the ride height on stock arms. The wheel swings up and -ve camber increases and you get the undesired effects of that. So, you lengthen the upper arm to dial out the camber. The arc that the top end up the upright now follows is longer, right? But the radius rod is still the same short length that it was before, and it pulls the front of the upright inwards as all these arms go up and down. This literally steers that wheel. It changes its toe in-out as it goes up and down through the arc of travel.

So you need to have an adjustable radius arm also. You mount a mirror onto the hub and you shine a laser at it, reflected back onto a piece of paper near the laser. As you swing the arm up and down**, the laser will trace a shape on the paper. You want that to be as close to a straight vertical line as possible, which shows that the wheel is only going up and down, not also steering in-out. You then set the radius rod length to minimise the sideways deflection of the laser path. This is enormously time consuming, and takes several iterations to get right, because when you adjust the radius arm length you also tweak the camber a little. So you have to go around and around a couple of times to get the camber where you want it and also minimise bump steer.

**Doing this requires that you support the car and can independently support the hub and swing it up and down through its travel. So you have to disconnect the rear strut. You need to know exactly where the hub is supposed to be wrt the body when at correct ride height, because this is the centre point of the arc that you need to run up and down from.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Stagea_Neo Experienced

Stagea_Neo

Posted
Posted
On 23/08/2022 at 10:43 AM, SLIXK said:

Anyone know what type the RS4V uses I want to purchase bc golds, and give it to the shop that currently has my car to install it for me with new wheels. RS4V

 

Mines an RS4V as well.  Personally I use the Tein Flex coilover.

But i'm pretty confident this is the page to checkout, with the eyelet type mount.

https://bcracing.com.au/collections/nissan-stagea-rs-x-four-awd-eyelet-type-rear-mount-wgnc34-96-01

I'll be under the car on the weekend so can take pics if you need something to compare/refer to?

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  • 2 weeks later...
SLIXK Collaborator

SLIXK

Posted
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Posted (edited)
On 9/8/2022 at 10:39 PM, Stagea_Neo said:

 

Mines an RS4V as well.  Personally I use the Tein Flex coilover.

But i'm pretty confident this is the page to checkout, with the eyelet type mount.

https://bcracing.com.au/collections/nissan-stagea-rs-x-four-awd-eyelet-type-rear-mount-wgnc34-96-01

I'll be under the car on the weekend so can take pics if you need something to compare/refer to?

I was told by a few it’s eyelet so I just purchased eyelet ones, will have to see when they arrive.

Edited by SLIXK
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