Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anybody looked into obtaining a front cut V37 Red sedan from japan as a way to twin turbo a V36 (sedan)?  I figure this could be made street legal by putting it over the pits as the VR30DETT block and trans should mostly drop in with just a few hiccups (the USA has sorted now). The left over V36 motor and trans could be sold off to reduce costs also.

Anybody considered this ? 

The aftermarket route is expensive (like 25K) so the front cut would have to be cheaper (15K?). Who would undertake this in QLD... East Coast Customs ?

Pete

 

 

Edited by mybrains
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483985-v37-front-cut-into-a-v36-as-a-swap/
Share on other sites

So a vr30ddtt??
Yes looked into it. Waiting to see how the new Z goes first.
Its been done a heap in the USA heaps, wiring is not to hard. Definitely budget well over 25k for a shop to do everything. Allow for small things like hoses, clamps, exhaust, bigger heat exchanger, even possible brake upgrade to meet engineering requirements. Allow something like this a few months to be done.

If wanting power its easier to attach a blower, exhaust, fuel system or one of the BTW turbo kits and retune or buy just the inifiniti 
East Coast Customs don't really do conversion stuff any more but would be able to tune it or do the above work. Boys have been flat out and I know are pretty much booked for the rest of the year.

 

thanks. this is leaning me towards just selling the v36 and buying a V37 ready to go. I need to find out if AUS is ready to import the Japanese red sedans now (2019 model). Local seems to have cut off at 2018 model (before the GTR facelift). If the import is 45K and the V36 sells for 20K then its the same 25K swap over abet less hassle and easier to service etc.

Pete

Mustang V8 note is nice but turbos are easier to boot ;)

 

Local V37s have dropped alot. Some for 34K. makes swap even cheaper. Still, the 2019 model had a better electric steering system and some of the kinks worked out so I lean that way to go JDM.

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/infiniti/sedan-bodystyle/petrol-fueltype/turbo-induction/6-cylinders/under-50000/?sort=~Price

If you go down the Q50/Q60 RS route, try to get a later model (2018) as the earlier models had issues with the turbos failing prematurely and it is $$ to replace as they are integrated into the exhaust manifold.

The RS was available with or without DAS.  Interesting, the only people that seem to hate DAS are those that have never owned one.  Unless you want to track the car and value as much steering feedback as possible, then DAS is fine.  Either the older version or newer (some on the US forums prefer Ver1)

 

Retrofitting a VR into a V36 sounds like $$$ and you end up with a unicorn that may be hard to find someone to work on it and will make it harder to sell.  Surely building and turbo charging a VQ37 will yield better results anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...