Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, I am new to this forum seeking for help. I own a R32 GTS-T 64k miles and my car keeps getting misfires whenever I drive for 10-15 minutes in a hot day well any day to be honest. I changed the coil pack loom, ignition coils, sparkplugs and still misfires.. but car does feel a lot better with the new parts I just listed. Car runs, and starts good on cold. Could it be my igniter? Fuel Injectors? Timing? O2 sensor? ECU? could be one of those things or possibly more 0_0 I really need some help because I really love my car. 4 months ago I got it compression tested all around 150 and one of them was 140 can't remember which cylinder it was. I changed fuel pump 4 months ago as well because old one decided to go sleep on me. Anywho...please help :(! Any answers would be appreciated! 

 

8BA96CD9-43BD-41AE-9DCF-3ED58BA58DA6.jpg

D2203FB8-B1A8-42E0-95C4-DE7C96CCD58A.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/
Share on other sites

1. Get a consult cable and scan for codes.
2. Leak down test to check if valves & rings are sealing.
 3. If no error codes, get wideband and check AFR/Lambda

That 5th plug looks to have oil on it so either rings or valve stem seal could be the issue


These cars are 30 years old and probably have not had all scheduled maintenance done and been flogged over their many owners.
From failing optical sensors in CAS to blocked fuel filters. So many issues with them these days hard to diagnose with out seeing car in person.
 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/#findComment-7969661
Share on other sites

On 9/1/2022 at 2:24 PM, TakeoSkyline said:

Could it be my igniter?

Absolutely.

There's also almost zero chance that that car has only done 64000 miles. 164000 more likely, 264000 quite probable. That is unless you have owned it since circa the year 2000. 30 years of heat soaking will definitely leave that ignitor not working the way it should. Hell.....they started dying 20 years ago on everyone else's cars.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/#findComment-7969663
Share on other sites

On 9/1/2022 at 12:11 AM, GTSBoy said:

Absolutely.

There's also almost zero chance that that car has only done 64000 miles. 164000 more likely, 264000 quite probable. That is unless you have owned it since circa the year 2000. 30 years of heat soaking will definitely leave that ignitor not working the way it should. Hell.....they started dying 20 years ago on everyone else's cars.

I meant to say 104,000 kilometers haha sorry but yeah thank you for the reply I will be ordering my igniter but did order a few things to replace because might as well right? hehe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/#findComment-7969665
Share on other sites

On 9/1/2022 at 12:01 AM, robbo_rb180 said:

1. Get a consult cable and scan for codes.
2. Leak down test to check if valves & rings are sealing.
 3. If no error codes, get wideband and check AFR/Lambda

That 5th plug looks to have oil on it so either rings or valve stem seal could be the issue


These cars are 30 years old and probably have not had all scheduled maintenance done and been flogged over their many owners.
From failing optical sensors in CAS to blocked fuel filters. So many issues with them these days hard to diagnose with out seeing car in person.
 

Thank you for the reply! I will be doing the 3 things you listed as soon as possible if my igniter and fuel injectors won't do!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/#findComment-7969666
Share on other sites

I forgot to mention my car has a valve cover leak so rubber gaskets might have been old and sucky now but it doesn't look too bad so not enough to leak in the ground but I did get my replacements already and will be doing them soon 😀

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/#findComment-7969667
Share on other sites

On 9/1/2022 at 3:58 PM, TakeoSkyline said:

104,000 kilometer

Being essentially the same as 64000 miles does not change my opinion of the mileage on that car. They were all wound back in Japan, then usually wound back again before sale in their destination country.

On 9/1/2022 at 3:58 PM, TakeoSkyline said:

I will be ordering my igniter but did order a few things to replace because might as well right?

Better off abandoning that old fashioned crap. Buy an R35 (or similar) pencil coil conversion kit. Rewire with a loom kit to get rid of the igniter. Nistune the ECU so you can tweak the dwell and boost off into the sunset.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/#findComment-7969668
Share on other sites

On 9/1/2022 at 1:03 AM, GTSBoy said:

Better off abandoning that old fashioned crap. Buy an R35 (or similar) pencil coil conversion kit. Rewire with a loom kit to get rid of the igniter. Nistune the ECU so you can tweak the dwell and boost off into the sunset.

Yeah for sure, I've watched someone do it on YouTube gonna be doing that this year. The igniter will just be for temporary so won't be using it for anytime soon when I get the r35 coil conversion kit on 😁 Thank you for the suggestion!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483992-rb20det-misfire/#findComment-7969669
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
    • But I think you missed mine.. there is also nothing about the 98 spec that supports your claim..  according to the fuel standards, it can be identical to 95, just very slightly higher octane number. But the ulp vs pulp fuel regulations go show 95 (or 98), is not just 91 with some additives. any claim of ‘refined by the better refineries’ or ‘higher quality fuel’ is just hearsay.  I have never seen anything to back up such claims other than ‘my mate used to work for a fuel station’, or ‘drove a fuel delivery truck’, or ‘my mechanic says’.. the actual energy densities do slightly vary between the 3 grades of fuel, but the difference is very minor. That said, I am very happy to be proven wrong if anyone has some hard evidence..
    • Hey guys I’m chasing a Rb20det complete or bare block need a good running engine as mine has low comp 
    • You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
×
×
  • Create New...