Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've spent 18k on the DCT box, adaptor gear, wiring, GCU, oil coolers etc. Once I upgrade the clutch packs and do the last few things to get it all in It'll be around $25k. So not much cheaper than a 6 speed sequential. The next firmware update for the GCU is going full closed loop, so no need to tune it after that.

  • Like 2
8 minutes ago, TezGT-R said:

I've spent 18k on the DCT box, adaptor gear, wiring, GCU, oil coolers etc. Once I upgrade the clutch packs and do the last few things to get it all in It'll be around $25k. So not much cheaper than a 6 speed sequential. The next firmware update for the GCU is going full closed loop, so no need to tune it after that.

On a GTR ?

7 hours ago, TezGT-R said:

I've spent 18k on the DCT box, adaptor gear, wiring, GCU, oil coolers etc. Once I upgrade the clutch packs and do the last few things to get it all in It'll be around $25k. So not much cheaper than a 6 speed sequential. The next firmware update for the GCU is going full closed loop, so no need to tune it after that.

The costs certainly add up.. like any mod I suppose.

I would be very interested to hear how closed loop GCU control would go. That would take out a massive element of getting things going.

The whole package is probably 2 years away from being a more common mod. 

14 hours ago, Gareth87 said:

The costs certainly add up.. like any mod I suppose.

I would be very interested to hear how closed loop GCU control would go. That would take out a massive element of getting things going.

The whole package is probably 2 years away from being a more common mod. 

They reckon you'll just have to put in a few things like gear ratios, torque calculation stuff and some safety parameters then go driving and it'll get smoother and faster on the shifts as you go. HPR is offering complete plug and play packages now and with closed loop it should be a lot more user friendly to get it going.

  • Like 1

@TezGT-R that's certainly of interest. Hopefully once we see a few get going here in Aus, we'll have more info as well on various setups.

Certainly sounds like the new software will be a step forward 

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

 

I finished up the long block last weekend, pulled the 26 and manual box yesterday. Fab work and freshening up the engine bay starts next weekend. It'll be manual while we get the engine run in and tuned then the DCT will go in. I usually post updates on instagram.

20221127_173209.thumb.jpg.a66b6bc6691be199a836cb2a64c72030.jpg20221119_122826.thumb.jpg.1bcc18c7af1e24074938d8dcda2e8b1a.jpg20221119_122807.thumb.jpg.e78ca21dc9eb960bdb48e49500c564a4.jpg

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
  • 1 year later...

G'day Guys, 

Thought I'd chime in and see if I can revive this thread. So, two years ago, I inherited my late brother's R31 Skyline. Prior to my brother's passing, we had picked up an E90X DCT transmission for our FJ20 powered 1600 build. Anyway, the DCT swap has been on ice since then, because the plan was the use an HTG GCU, but a quick google search revealed many HTG customers dissatisfied with the brand and the support.

I've recently discovered CAN Performance, who make a plug-in controller for the DCT and the 8HP gearboxes. Their customer base seen very happy with the performance of the units, some of whom have swapped over from the HTG GCU. So with a controller now available, I'm moving forward with the RB/DCT conversion. The RB is still the factory NA r31 motor, fitted with a VL turbo kit and ecu. I'm currently in the process of upgrading to a Haltech 2500 elite, including DBW throttle. I've also purchased the adapter kit, from the guys at 8speed.

Anyway, hopefully the end result is worth the effort and cost. Initial rough estimates so far is around 15k, including the purchase cost of the gearbox. For those who want to follow the swap, I'll update this thread for time to time. I'll do more regular updates with pics and videos on FB and insta. Happy to share the link to those if requested. 

 

Cheers, 

Orlando 

  • Like 1

Definitely keep the thread alive mate. Following with great interest. Where are you located. Would be keen to check it out as you progress.

Yes.. the Can performance GCU seems to be the go. A lot more sorted the the HTG so I hear.

32 minutes ago, Gareth87 said:

Definitely keep the thread alive mate. Following with great interest. Where are you located. Would be keen to check it out as you progress.

Yes.. the Can performance GCU seems to be the go. A lot more sorted the the HTG so I hear.

Will do mate. I'm located in Sydney. Cool Runnings Engineering on FB and instagram. 

By the way, I'll be doing an 8HP swap behind the FJ in the 1600. Picking up a 8HP45 tomorrow. Will have to make my own adapter kit for the FJ so that's a longer-term project. 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

G'day Guys, 

So I manage to get my hands on a 8HP-45 from the same family of engine as my DCT. The bolt  pattern of the 2 gear boxes are identical so and so it the length. Hopefully they will be interchangeable, using the same gear box mount. I also managed to pick up an old RB30 block, which I'll use for test filling the boxes. Should make life a little easier.  More updates to come. 

Cheers

 

 

8HP vs DCT (2).jpeg

8HP vs DCT (3).jpeg

DCT vs 8HP (1).jpeg

DCT Adaptor.jpeg

Edited by JGB1600
wrong attachment
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
    • Don't do what I did, use a 300000km old housing with billet gears. The old pump probably was clearanced with saw dust, Edward Lee's special engine treatment sauce and a good odo wind back. I had oil pressure issues, then replaces pump with new housing, new billet gears and 2x track day later binned a motor due to other oil related issues due to a previous engine builder. Long story short, buy a M2 or 3 or 4 N55/S55/S58 and enjoy life.
    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
×
×
  • Create New...