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7 hours ago, WantGTR said:

They do well on the street, I mean nashos, I mean everyday/sometimes spirited driving. Even at the new increased price they are still very affordable.

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Really not that bad. See my other comments at "Daily driver/spirited nasho tyres". The RS4 is just priced better than anything else. The days where the RS4 was twice the price of a Federal/Nankang are sadly quite over, making the Hankook just the bang for buck champion.

Yokos tend to grip better as they age, and will grip down to the cords, but this is an impression with no hard data that I have ever really seen. The tread life in kms is the same for me (AD08R vs RS3/RS4) making the AD08R just twice as expensive for literally no benefit.

  • Like 2

This is what I've experienced with some of the mentioned brands
Not all 200tw but gives a good range if doing street track/track stuff and prices at the time of purchase

Advan a050 is super consistant until nothing is left (Multiple Track days & maybe 1200km street driving) $2400 July 2020
Nankang (AR1) will go off in round 12-18months (Multiple track days only, depending on number of heat cycles) $1000 Sept 2018
Hankook RS3 I found were consistent until around 2-2.5 years old down to wear indicators. (daily street and 2 years of sprint track events) $1400 June 2016

I've got the Nexen sur4g ($950 Sep 2021) on the sil80 at the moment and have done around 3000km street driving(road trip from Brisbane to Townsville), King of QR 2021, Lakeside drags & DTC day and a tarmac rally sprint. I have found them pretty good but you can feel the tyre moving around in certain conditions pushing them to the limit. I think is something to do with sidewall construction. The grip when giving it a boot full on the street is great and they hook up well for a car with 300kw and around 1300kg. Yet to have them in proper wet conditions so can't comment on that.

Also have the Michelin pilot sport 4s on the 370z ($2200 Mar 2022). Around 6500km of street driving in all conditions, wet hill climb and King of QR 2022, Lakeside DTC day. In the wet they are amazing placed 6th out of 43 cars that day, lots of grip from the start and got better as it dried. At QR found they were consistent for 2 back to back hot laps of national circuit and pressures were stable once I got them right (running 34psi hot). For street fun stuff have been great on different quality of surfaces.

For me now its finding a mix between cost vs performance and meeting a class rule for the street cars as we have pretty strict tyre rules for https://www.timeattack.com.au/ events especially street classes.

For future I will be sticking with the Michelin for the 370Z and if available the Nexen for the Sil80 as both street cars.
The track cars will be AR1/CR-S as I think they are good value where I get them.

  • Like 2
11 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

They look really interesting. It's a real shame there is only one size in 17"

I feel the world forcing me to get 18" wheels. It's crazy that these days some tyres smallest size is 19".

Thats about the only downside, limited sizes.

I feel like we are not comparing apples with apples here when the R comp tyres keep coming up like A050 or AR-1 - they are track tyres and not really fit for purpose for a street longevity option. Also the tread wear ratings seem to be anything but consistent in reality, making it even harder to compare when discussing less tried and tested models.

Remember AD08R and RS3 / RS4 used to be a 140tw tyre, until they were "rerated" to be 200 so they would comply with this international 200 class legal requirement in racing, so take tw with a grain of salt.

The Yoko ADVAN V103 was 180tw and has about half the grip of an AD08R. That's my point in the ratings being not a good metric for comparison - they are not even close to what I would consider a true 200tw tyre despite having that sub 200 rating. A 200tw tyre should be a street tyre first that can get used on the track like the AD08R or RS4.

On 20/09/2022 at 6:32 PM, Kinkstaah said:

The RS4 is just priced better than anything else. The days where the RS4 was twice the price of a Federal/Nankang are sadly quite over, making the Hankook just the bang for buck champion.

Agreed, especially when Tyreright consistenty has 4 for 3 deals on RS4 and other Hankook quarterly.

  • Like 2

I'm happy to forgo tyre longevity for a "performance" street car if the tyre can actually hook up, to a point, they must be safe at hwy speeds and casual/legal street driving in the wet and dry

This is why I tried out the Toyo R888R on my old Commodore after being recommended them as a better replacement to the RS4's I was running

If your looking for a grippy tyre, that is nice and compliant for daily duties the R888R have been an excellent upgrade over the RS4's, maybe the apparently "softer sidewalls" are advantageous to a point on the street, plus coming in a 275/40 17" size was handy as the biggest 17" tyre for the RS4 is 255/40 17

I've already put a few thousand street km on them, wet, dry, cold and warm days, and one day at the drags where they absolutely smoked the RS4's for traction

They seem to be wearing very well for what they are, I guestimate they still have about 75% treadwear left, and even after all the street driving up and down the coast they grip just like they were first scrubbed in, in the end if they last around 10k km I'll be happy, thats over a year of driving for me, they aren't any noisier than the RS4's which is nice on the long hwy drives

Are they the best option, possibly not, but at $300 for a street legal grippy 275/40 17...... that ain't bad

I would definitely recommend these to anyone with a street car with some power, from my experience I can hit the tyres pretty hard from the dig, and in the corners they hold the fat old girl really well even under some throttle, the really only next step up traction wise would be some ET street drag radials, but then they aren't legal and are rubbish in the wet

If there's better out there for similar cost tell me please, I need all the traction I can get

  • Like 1

R888R probably are better for the drags than the RS4 or AD08R. Whats you 60ft ? On the 18" RS4 I did a 60ft of 1.8 a couple of weeks ago and think there is possibly a 1.7 or 1.6 in them though. MT Et street is definitely a drag only tyre and feel like jelly on the street with any turns, but if you want grip for drags get a set.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, BK said:

R888R probably are better for the drags than the RS4 or AD08R. Whats you 60ft ? On the 18" RS4 I did a 60ft of 1.8 a couple of weeks ago and think there is possibly a 1.7 or 1.6 in them though. MT Et street is definitely a drag on tyre and feel like jelly on the street with any turns, but if you want grip for drags get a set.

LOL, my 60ft is rubbish at 2.4, MPH is good enough at 122, and the ET is at 12.4, maybe I need to do a bigger burnout, maybe the only thing that will actually fix my 60ft is some drag radials on the rear, which I'm not at all interested in buying for a car that will only see the strip once or twice a year for the LOLS, or traction control 

I ran some old MT ET streets on the rear of my old R33 GTS-t years ago, which were fine for straight line blasts and cruising around the streets in the dry, but less than nice on any road with a corner, and in the wet they were actually pretty dangerous

I think my main issue, or one of my issues, is the supercharger makes all of its power basically off idle, if I could take off in second it might help, or if I had longer gears ( I have already gone from 3.9 to 3.46, now I'm thinking I should have gone a bit longer, 3.07???? , 2.87 maybe??? IDK....), but the slushbox will always launch in 1st, and a manualised? (spelling) transmission seems like a PITA for a hwy/street cruiser with visions of grandeur 

My "other" main issue, LOL, yes I have main issues aplenty, is I want a tyre, like my car, than sort of can do everything "Ok" that I want as is, I want to be able to cruise the hwy and streets rain hail or shine, give it a regular boot full, and hit the strip occasionally, and not worry about having to change tyres/rims/suspension to do it

I'm not competitive, I'm just a old hoon who wants to play

I've also got a RaceTCS that has been sitting in the bottom draw for the last few months that I haven't had fitted yet, it was originally purchased to help the RS4's cope, the Toyo's don't really need it now, well, for the street just rolling on anyway, I still want to install it to help at the drags, and for the occasional hit, but, as I only hit the drags once or twice a year it isn't really a priority

The big noticeable difference of the R888R's is rolling on from around 60kph, the RS4's hated life and lost traction pretty easily and without careful peddling would spin up that fast it would touch the limiter before shifting into 2nd or 3rd, which for a 4l60e is a death sentence for the pump, the R888R hook up much better and shifts hard but with minimal wheel spin now changing into 3rd, and doesn't tough the limiter at all now going into 2nd

I'm sure I'm probably "doing it wrong", but the Toyo's are definitely helping me achieve what I'm after for a small outlay, even with the loose nut that is behind the steering wheel

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2 hours ago, The Bogan said:

LOL, my 60ft is rubbish at 2.4, MPH is good enough at 122, and the ET is at 12.4, maybe I need to do a bigger burnout, maybe the only thing that will actually fix my 60ft is some drag radials on the rear, which I'm not at all interested in buying for a car that will only see the strip once or twice a year for the LOLS, or traction control 

I ran some old MT ET streets on the rear of my old R33 GTS-t years ago, which were fine for straight line blasts and cruising around the streets in the dry, but less than nice on any road with a corner, and in the wet they were actually pretty dangerous

I think my main issue, or one of my issues, is the supercharger makes all of its power basically off idle, if I could take off in second it might help, or if I had longer gears ( I have already gone from 3.9 to 3.46, now I'm thinking I should have gone a bit longer, 3.07???? , 2.87 maybe??? IDK....), but the slushbox will always launch in 1st, and a manualised? (spelling) transmission seems like a PITA for a hwy/street cruiser with visions of grandeur 

My "other" main issue, LOL, yes I have main issues aplenty, is I want a tyre, like my car, than sort of can do everything "Ok" that I want as is, I want to be able to cruise the hwy and streets rain hail or shine, give it a regular boot full, and hit the strip occasionally, and not worry about having to change tyres/rims/suspension to do it

I'm not competitive, I'm just a old hoon who wants to play

I've also got a RaceTCS that has been sitting in the bottom draw for the last few months that I haven't had fitted yet, it was originally purchased to help the RS4's cope, the Toyo's don't really need it now, well, for the street just rolling on anyway, I still want to install it to help at the drags, and for the occasional hit, but, as I only hit the drags once or twice a year it isn't really a priority

The big noticeable difference of the R888R's is rolling on from around 60kph, the RS4's hated life and lost traction pretty easily and without careful peddling would spin up that fast it would touch the limiter before shifting into 2nd or 3rd, which for a 4l60e is a death sentence for the pump, the R888R hook up much better and shifts hard but with minimal wheel spin now changing into 3rd, and doesn't tough the limiter at all now going into 2nd

I'm sure I'm probably "doing it wrong", but the Toyo's are definitely helping me achieve what I'm after for a small outlay, even with the loose nut that is behind the steering wheel

20220923_133811.thumb.jpg.f698b42df98c7ed7da3459171c878760.jpg

You want good times you'll NEED ET streets. At 122mph with an auto you'll see low 11s. Just buy a set of rear rims purely for the strip and do it 👍

15 minutes ago, BK said:

You want good times you'll NEED ET streets. At 122mph with an auto you'll see low 11s. Just buy a set of rear rims just for the strip and do it 👍

I think I'll just eventually settle for traction control and be happy with what a street legal tyre can give me

  • Sad 1

Hey guys, 

Just after some advice on tyre pressures. I have ordered some nankang ar1 in 235/45/17 and 255/40/17 for my s13.

Car weights 1320kg with me in it and most track work is at lakeside.

Previously ran federal rsrr an they seemed happy around 37-39 psi but have seen robb_rb180 mention ar1 s like lower pressures around 28-29. 

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, Russdmuss said:

Hey guys, 

Just after some advice on tyre pressures. I have ordered some nankang ar1 in 235/45/17 and 255/40/17 for my s13.

Car weights 1320kg with me in it and most track work is at lakeside.

Previously ran federal rsrr an they seemed happy around 37-39 psi but have seen robb_rb180 mention ar1 s like lower pressures around 28-29. 

From the Nankang website - 

Optimum operating window 71-104 degrees celsius

Optimum camber settings between -1.0 to -3.0 degrees

HOT Pressure settings

<800kg  23 - 27.5psi

800-1000kg  24 - 32psi

1,000-1,400kg  27.5 - 37psi

1,400kg>  34 - 42psi

If you are having handling issues, please see the table below which may resolve your issue, remember to do this in small increments at a time

To reduce Over steer
Reduce rear pressures or increase front pressures
To increase Over steer
Increase rear pressures or reduce front pressures
To reduce Under steer
Reduce front pressures or increase rear pressures
To increase Under steer
Increase front pressures or reduce rear pressures

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