Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, Im just wanting a hopefully simple answer.

I'm just wondering if the rb20de neo ecus/ looms are the same as the rb25det neo engines. 

I'm doing a plus-t on my 20de neo and before you all say it's not worth it I know I have a s1 25det I'll use in either this or the drift car which ever blows up first😂.

Main thing I'm wanting to know is can I get a link g4 plug and play for a R34 25det and use the loom or ecu or am I just better off getting g4x and make/ get my loom made. 

I've seen multiple de neo plus t's make good reliable power eg: one in a mates drift car making 270kw on 22psi for 6 years, even saw 13500rpm briefly back when links limiters liked to disappear and somehow survived. 

Plan is to run a 25det turbo stock manifold fmic not sure on intake yet but will probably go front facing or could just put the standard 25det one if it fit and run 14psi with larger cc injectors and all the usual crap.

Thanks in advance for any replies

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484091-r34-rb20de-neo-ecu-vs-25det-neo-ecu/
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Aiden.owop said:

even saw 13500rpm

Didn't happen. Would have been bullshit signal from CAS interpreted by ECU as much more revs than was actually happening. 13500 is just so totally implausible as to be beneath consideration.

As to the ECU....not sure. There are definitely ECU driven devices and sensors on the turbo that are not on the 20. Traction control and its position sensor, boost sensor (yes, for the ECU, not for the dash) and teh boost control solenoid are the obvious ones. So it is possible that the ECU plug is the same plug, but it is also possible that it is not. And if it is the same, there is no guarantee that the pin assignments for all the other stuff are the same.

'Twere I you, I would get the wiring diagrams for them both and just compare. The manuals are out there.

  • Thanks 1

I haven't tried it this way but I''m guessing it would work, as GTSBoy says there are extra sensors but with the link I'd guess once again lol that you'd just have to wire in the boost control solenoid unless just running gate pressure, the boost sensor & traction probably shouldn't be an issue with the link.

Have you checked the Link site? See below lol

Suitable applications: 

RB20DE NEO, RB25DE NEO and RB25DET NEO in R34 Skylines

RB20DE NEO, RB25DE NEO and RB25DET NEO in C35 Laurels 

RB20DE NEO, RB25DE NEO and RB25DET NEO in Nissan Stageas

- Plus, non neo motors in Stageas 

  • Thanks 1

Thanks for the reply's guys, I did look on links website but for some reason didn't see the "suitable applications"

I'm not too worried about everything working ie dash but would be nice, the boost sensors and controller will all be done by the link as they have a 4 bar map sensor and multiple extra ports for things like boost controllers & iat sensor. The cars factory manual and doesn't have tcs and abs runs on its own modual. I'll come back and update you guys on how I get on for anyone trying to do this in the future.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please do not connect it to your manifold. If you do, as GTS suggested please record the lot in 4K with good mics attached.   On the factory Skyline, there's a upside down pipe that allows it to breathe, looks like this   
    • For me I'd need some serious justification for why it has blown out.  Have you questioned him on it?  To be honest if you didn't question him right from the get-go on the first invoice that was already way over the initial quote and then you've (presumably) then paid another $1375 on top of the first invoice, then you're pushing shit uphill to get a favourable result now... It was years ago I last got an engineer out but it was around $450-$550 per visit.  That was just to inspect each progress point he gave me for the project.  Is he just doing progress inspections or is he providing engineering diagrams, technical assistance, etc??  If he's not, he's a filthy rip off merchant.  If the $3100 is the final sign off then you need to cop it on the chin, pay it and move on.  If it's not, piss him off and get a new one.  Not many Jeeps I'd value at $10K full stop let alone just engineering fees on a written off, half actual value WOVR Jeep....
    • Oh, yes. If you connected it to the manifold your first drive would be very eventful. Very shit. Very interesting. Perhaps take a video if you feel the need to see. Terminating the breather at the top of the bellhousing is normal/stock. Some gearbox lubes (hello Redline Shockproof) like to foam up a bit and require the breather to be extended up higher, so you don't get spots of smurf jizz staining the floor under your car. Mine is thus right up behind the head. Make sure you fit a u-bend at the top so it points back downward so that dirt and schmutz has a harder time getting into it.
    • Cheers for the replies. So i don't connect it to the manifold I just run the hose high up on the firewall?
    • It doesn't really answer your question...but is the head unit full android or just android auto, are you happy with how quickly it boots and responds, and do you have a link?  If we can identify good Android alternatives it will really help people stuck with Japanese screens. Did it have a separate reverse camera input so you would replace the factory one, or are you just going without now...that would be a pretty big steps back. And finally, do you have a picture of the "wire" that you can't plug in? Most likely it is some sort of aerial that is not too important eg japanese traffic or am radio or something if you haven't noticed a functionality issue
×
×
  • Create New...