Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

While looking at diff options saw that kudos have a sale on nismo units. Just wondering if anyone can give me some reviews on the. I can get a 2 way rear and 1.5 way front. Car will be used on street but built for roll/drag. Goal is 8 second time slip. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484102-nismo-lsd/
Share on other sites

Plus a couple of other factors..... the Nismo 2-way is still pretty miserable to live with on the street. The Nismo Pro is a much better option - you can adjust it somewhat.

I would defo prefer a Quaife in the front. Almost certainly prefer a Quaife in the rear. The only time a helical will let you down is when you prop a wheel up in the air. Are you going to twist a GTR chassis enough for that in a drag race?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484102-nismo-lsd/#findComment-7970860
Share on other sites

Quaife at the front, hands down. The best mod you can do to these things. It should be mandatory if the engine comes out, it can’t go back in without one installed.


I have a GT pro 1.5 way in the rear and even set to soft it’s pretty cranky in servo’s and car parks. The OS Giken lsd oil, from memory 80w - 250 calmed it down alot.

A bit of character never hurt anyone. 👍

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484102-nismo-lsd/#findComment-7970875
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Had a very long chat with Will from JHH. He explained in great detail the real world difference between the types of diffs. I’m going Nismo pro diffs both ends. I know they will be clunky and rough in tight slow turns but when you aim for an 8 at the quarter mile, you have forgo some comfort. I’m trying to put allot of power to the ground. Clutch diffs will be the best choice to do so. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484102-nismo-lsd/#findComment-7971629
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, khezz said:

Had a very long chat with Will from JHH. He explained in great detail the real world difference between the types of diffs. I’m going Nismo pro diffs both ends. I know they will be clunky and rough in tight slow turns but when you aim for an 8 at the quarter mile, you have forgo some comfort. I’m trying to put allot of power to the ground. Clutch diffs will be the best choice to do so. 

My mechanic has led me to the same result but for a very different use case. I will be going Nismo Pro front and rear when the diff rebuilds are done early in the new year

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484102-nismo-lsd/#findComment-7971633
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, khezz said:

I’ll see how I go. Looking at allot of the videos, it’s not that bad. It’s like going to E85 and complaining about fuel economy. It’s all about smile per gallon. 
 

The name of the game when it comes to stuff like E85 is thermal efficiency, not mpg. Of course mpg will be worse, the volumetric energy density of ethanol is less than gasoline. I'm willing to bet with most if not all turbo RBs going to E85 is a net benefit for thermal efficiency.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484102-nismo-lsd/#findComment-7971646
Share on other sites

I wouldn't even think that it is inherently "thermal efficiency", so much as just being able to operate in a manner that is simply not possible with high octane petrol alone. I mean.....no-one knows what the thermal efficiency of the engine is operating at the boost or ignition advance (that you can run with ethanol is) when operating on petrol, because you only get 2s of operation then the engine blows up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484102-nismo-lsd/#findComment-7971647
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, 33GTRV said:

make sure you are sitting down when you go to buy the DSS shafts. I was when i got them 18 months ago and nearly fainted.

Shortly after that i seen speedtek were making a 300m billet shaft!

 

Oh I have the prices. Speedtek make only a part of assembly. Great product, I agree but you are still left with a lot of weak parts that are 30 years old. DSS make a replacement for the entire assembly. So everything is brand new and will handle anything I through at it. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484102-nismo-lsd/#findComment-7971663
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Not sure how that's true. We're just talking in a tangential direction.

It’s all about “smile” per gallon. I was just making a comparison about making some sacrifices for overall enjoyment of the finished product. Slight humour. That’s all. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484102-nismo-lsd/#findComment-7971667
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...