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Laundering money by building drag cars for fun and prestige is just another way of emptying cupboards full of dirty drug money

The amount of people laying wads of cash to suppliers, workshops and jewellery stores is astounding 

How do people people think that all these "unemployed" people driving around in big dollar cars and bikes, draped in gold do it

The old "I pay cash" is strong in their world

  • Like 2

I'd be interested in a new cast block that is primarily interested in fixing the more obvious issues with the RB26 design. Core shift and thin walls is a big one. Another is oil control. Improving the oil returns and feeds is one thing but what would really make me be willing to drop 8k USD would be a lot of engineering/validation devoted to the block/oil pan to integrate internal scavenge pumps and make the engine capable of surviving 1.3g continuous. Being able to confidently push hard on tracks without being afraid of oil surge/excessive blowby would be amazing for peace of mind. Also not having to drill and route even more hoses and all that fun stuff for crankcase ventilation so it retains a relatively factory look and feel would be great. 

I would also want this block to be first and foremost street-oriented. It needs to just work with low p2w clearance pistons.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

Let's go to the judges and figure out who knew first. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Turns out some.othwr bloke, Steve, knew before any of you.

I reckon Herman knew before Steve though 

4 hours ago, r32-25t said:

I said it in an earlier post that they were 

Yep, you also said , been years and no eta. 

Just thought people would like the offical line and an update on timing. 

 

Forgive me for not crediting your prior post 

On 14/10/2022 at 2:02 AM, Butters said:

Yep, you also said , been years and no eta. 

Just thought people would like the offical line and an update on timing. 

 

Forgive me for not crediting your prior post 

Didn’t give an eta because I first heard about this years ago and was told at last years gtr fest it would be good to go end of last year and yet here we are with 2 months to go in 2022 and still no block

On 13/10/2022 at 10:13 PM, Butters said:

If so, the someone will have to cut my head off before I buy a fkn shit PRP piece of dump.

  • Haha 1
On 10/9/2022 at 11:31 AM, r32-25t said:

Cast blocks have the issue of the cradle walking and require a fair amount of work to try and rectify.

1/2in head studs are usually desired to keep the head down but the deck ends up weak and cracks.

the bores flex and end up either being oval or crack, also with core shift in the casting process you can end up with thin  spot which either makes them only good for one over bore or not good for even one

Saw this thread on blocks and it takes me way back to dinosaur days with my old Holden red motor sixes and its seems that the same issues with the in line sixes keeps on repeating in regards to main cap and cradle walking.

Got to agree with r32-t on the work that needs to be done on them to get them to survive high horse power applications.

I had to sonic test the blocks I had for wall thickness and core shifting, sleeve them down with thin wall ductile or nodular iron sleeves (can't remember which), grout fill the block.

Also had to machine a cradle or crank brace ( whatever you want to call it ) got a two inch thick block of steal, the length of the motor and width of the sump rails and machine it out to replace the main caps and drill out the sump rail mounting bolts and bolt it all up. Dry sumped it etc etc blah blah blah

This tended to be the best way to get the most strength out of them. 

Next engine I built would 100% be the PRP cast block.  They're not stupid so they will cover EVERY weak point of the engine and remedy it.  Yeah $8K is a larger initial investment than either your own existing block or buying a new factory block but you won't need to spend anywhere near as much on it to make it strong enough to handle big power.

It will be interesting to see if they have a base engine with options on top or just have a fully inclusive package.

 

3 hours ago, Shoota_77 said:

 Yeah $8K is a larger initial investment than either your own existing block or buying a new factory block but you won't need to spend anywhere near as much on it to make it strong enough to handle big power.

 

That was my thinking when I bought the billet block, yes it costs more to begin with but it wasnt much more compared to buying another cast block and doing everything to strengthen it properly and I still would have had a weaker block at the other end 

7 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

That was my thinking when I bought the billet block, yes it costs more to begin with but it wasnt much more compared to buying another cast block and doing everything to strengthen it properly and I still would have had a weaker block at the other end 

100%.

With a factory block you're always going to be chasing your arse adding to it or assuming at some point it's going boom!

1 hour ago, DaymoR32 said:

how much are greentop barra's these days? 😆

Which one? BA, BF or FG

BA BF = $100 for a long

FG = $150 for a long motor 

My mate at work is constantly bending my ear in all things Barra

Not bad for a base that is so capable and easy to build for small change

  • Like 1
6 hours ago, DaymoR32 said:

how much are greentop barra's these days? 😆

still waiting for some to awd sump convert for a gtr install, same with an LS too haha

 

Seen an awd ford ute with one that ripped..  territory running gear though. 

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