92ceffy flooded, rb20det wont start, cough,sputter or anything

[manlove891]

hurricane ian had some fun and now im trying to fix this mess

my 92 cefiro with rb20det was flooded. no water in the cylinders.

water was up to the bottom of the dash so the ecu is fried. ive replaced ecu

original ecu was a 4u01 replaced with 4u00

i have verified there is fuel spraying out of the injectors, i have verified there is spark on all 6 coils.

ive checked the 2 green relays and they seem to be functioning properly turning on and off with the ecu.

tps and cas both have power. cas is functioning properly. (Manually verified)

most recently ive put it back to tdc and the marks line up correctly so ive reinstalled the cas.

is there anything im missing?

what grounds should i check? where are they located? ive checked every fuse in the car and replaced all that were blown

car was turned off prior to flooding (was not running while flooding)

ive become frustrated getting this to even sputter, ive even tried starting fluid to no avail

 

[Duncan]

well, that sucks. So it cranks OK but no sign of starting?

Is there any possibility of water in the fuel via breathers? I'd drain and refill the tank, although you did mention you tried "starting fluid"

Also, you probably need to change engine oil, gearbox and diff fluids, they all have breathers. 

[manlove891]

so i tested the fuel just before the rail, let it sit for a few and no separation splashed it out and it ignited instantly so fuel is good. still nothing after putting in tdc and aligning cas.

the only place i found water was a little in the turbo and a little at the bottom of my fmic. 

[manlove891]

engine oil has no water in it at the stick, no discoloration or anything. have not checked tranny and dif. prob wont mess with the diff and tranny till i can get this to start again, unless the tranny has a sensor that would preven start due to water.

i will also note the car has been dry for about a week now.

[manlove891]

lets start back at the basics,
air- good
fuel- good
spark-good
for electrical can someone walk me through the basics of what and how to check?

Top

 

[manlove891]

could really use an rb god right about now..... can someone please list any fuses relays or sensors i should check. will crank but no fire. spark has been verified, fuel does squirt when not on the block, cas is properly functioning the injectors and the sparkies when key spindle is spun.im out of ideas as to why this thing wont fire.

 

 

[manlove891]

ecu code is 55 as well

[GTSBoy]

I shall presume that the AFM got wet and might not be good. Will also therefore presume that the air filter is wet and won't flow. Not that these should stop it firing completely, just stop it from actually making it all the way to running.

Time for a compression test, just in case something from far left field has happened.

Are the cams (and hence CAS) actually turning? Declaration of spark and fuel not clear as to whether it was cranking or just hand spinning the CAS.

[manlove891]

i put a socket extension down each cylinder and spun the cas, all injectors clicking but no gas on the extension

[manlove891]

it would be almost impossible for the compression to be out as the engine was off during the flood.

i have a strong feeling that its not getting the gas into the combustion chamber. cant smell it in there cant find it in there and cant see it in there. however when i pull the injectors off the block they do spray gas out.

yes cams are turning, the key is not broken so i can only assume it spins with the key but i cant see it while inserted so im going to say 90% cas is turning 

yes afm got wet. water was about an inch and a half from going into the intake so no water went into the cylinders.

theoretically i should be able to unplug the afm and still get it to start rough or in limp. i will most likely do a compression because ive not done it before on this block.

 

[manlove891]

grabbed a flash light and i can see mist on cyl 1 and 6 when i spin the cas so i am getting gas. 100% getting spark. no combustion though. when i put the plugs in it almost seems hard to turn over. im so lost with this car right now

[Butters]

Sorry if I missed it and to question but how are you 100% sure you are getting spark ?  have you had a plug in a coil and seen it ?

 

As spark + starter fluid always equal pop even if your timing is out. .... just pop out wrong side

[manlove891]

ive pulled all 6 plugs and verified spark by grounding to metal and spinning the cas.

rb20det wontfire/cough, only turnover - Page 2 - Nissan Forum | Nissan Forums (nicoclub.com) 

this is my nico forum that has been more active so there might be more info here.

this is where we are.
fuel- y
spark- y
ecu code- 55
zero combustion what so ever.
engine was running when parked then it flooded.
theoretically it should only be electrical problems.
ecu was replaced and is working however i do not know if it is functioning correctly as i have fuel spark and timing done.

[manlove891]

i almost feel like its hard to turn over too, turbo did have a little water in it. do you think my compressor possibly froze from getting water in it? i dont have a second person but i put some stuff in the tailpipe to see if its pushing air out on crank and it didnt move. if i put a shop wav to the turbo via any port i can only get the exhaust pipe to suck in not blow out

[Duncan]

If the engine turns, air will be moved from the intake to the exhaust. An engine is just an air pump.

I've got no direct expertise with a physically flooded car, but like you said the basics will always turn up the answer.

So, fuel, spark, compression, and the timing of the the three.

I'm not convinced your test for good fuel is sufficient. I would still drain and replace all of it. Just because you can ignite some in open air doesn't mean there isn't water in it.

You've got to do a compression test. It is absolutely possible there was water in there when you first tried to start it, you've said both the turbo and intercooler had water in them so some water must have been sucked through the intake into the motor

On electrical, the whole system's key job is to apply fuel and spark at the right time in the compression cycle to burn. If you have turned the CAS manually and heard the injectors click and seen spark at each plug, you have enough for it to at least cough even if not start (because there might be secondary issues like restricted air, fuel pressure, idle air control etc etc).

When you said "starting fluid" have you tried spring some start ya bastard in it while cranking? If you have compression and timed spark it should cough or run for a couple of seconds

[manlove891]

ive not sprayed while cranking as i am alone, i suppose i could jump the starter and do it. sprayed the intake, pop the pipe back on and turn it over is the process i followed.

going to do a compression test before the day is out just to rule out compression loss as a factor. do i need a leakdown test for valves or will valves be included in the compression?

the engine was hydro locked upon first start from flood,fluid in cyl #6. i do not believe it was water, i believe it was locked with gas.

engine was not run at all while the water started to come in. but cranking a locked engine can bend a valve if im not mistaken. if thats the case i can grab the valves off the rb im building in my living room.

 

[manlove891]

so i was messing around with the timing. gas pedal pressed all the way after like crank 6 it started to sputter but it did not start, atleast i have some sign of life. maybe i just need to go over timing in depth and just let it crank on a full charge with the pedal to the floor
 

[Dasmbo]

does you car have an igniter for the coil packs

[GTSBoy]

4 hours ago, manlove891 said:

the engine was hydro locked upon first start from flood,fluid in cyl #6. i do not believe it was water, i believe it was locked with gas.

See, it's nuggets of info like this, delivered deep into these threads that are always so infuriating.

Freshly charged battery. Comp test it.

Drain old suspicious fuel. Pump new fuel through the fuel rail and drain it off. Old fuel goes in the lawnmower.

Remove crossover pipe to TB. Spray ether in there through opened thottle plate. Then crank immediately. None of this "sprayed it in the intake", which I presume is pre-turbo.

 

[manlove891]

New battery- y

Drain fuel- n

Comp test-n (starter not strong enough to bend the rods)

Change oil- no sign of water 

I'm at a lack of words on how it hydrolocked. I did have to pull the car up while the exaust was under water with water at about my back seat area.

Stalled the car where I wanted it to stop. Not purposefully of course.

Checking the water level on the pre turbo intake  water never made it to the hole.

 

As far as spraying into tb past throttle plate, that is where I have been spraying. Then poping the pipe back in really quick and trying to crank.

The only sign of life I see is when I depress the pedal and cut the fuel, after turning over for a minute if feels like it sputters or gets easier turning like a cylend or 2 is firing.

I think my next steps are going to be replace fuel and pull the plugs and let it air out for a day or so.. no combustion is either not enough air or not enough fuel. If that doesn't give me any combustion then I have a bad ecu or my firing sequence is wrong.

Is there any known wiring difference between the 2 mt ecu's 4u00 and 4u01?

Would the jecs resistor not having power cause less fuel to spray from the injectors?