Jump to content
SAU Community

370GT k's on motor


Recommended Posts

Unfortunately replacing rings is an engine out rebuild, you would do bearings and seals at the same time, likely cost 5-10k.

Before you did that you would do a compression test to confirm it was rings not something in the head, and unless the car is running terrible you would almost certainly just live with it and top the oil up between changes.

Another possible (more likely) reason for burning a bit of oil on a mid age engine modern engine is the valve stem steals leaking. You would generally notice that most the longer since you last ran the car, it would burn a bit of oil as it first warms up then you probably wouldn't notice it after that. As with rings, you would probably just live with it; it is possible to fix in the car with a bit of fiddling but it would still be a big job. I've previously improved but not fixed older valve stem seals using an oil additive like this https://www.liquimoly.com.au/2782-engine-oil-resealer

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, threeseventygt said:

I would like to know though what you think the average life expectancy of the engine would be?

It's a bell curve. Some will last infinitely longer than the average, through luck and/or good maintenance. Others will shit the bed as you drive out of the dealer - from bad luck. Others will crap out before 100000km - from bad maintenance. I don't think these VQs have any particular famous weaknesses (ie, oil pump drives, timing idlers, etc, the sorts of things that are famous on various other engines, from RBs to BMWs).

And it's not the 1980s anymore, where manufacturers make simple fatal mistakes like completely stuffing up the design of the ring pack or the ring material. Treated correctly, engines just don't wear the way that they used to - can run for >500000km. But there's always those that don't get treated correctly, even if it's only for a while, and then you end up with ring wear, or bad valve stem seals.

External failures are more common these days. Plastic intake manifolds, valve timing actuators, coil packs, etc etc.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Totally agree....life of the engine will depend on treatment, maintenance and dumb luck due to the tolerances involved. You can expect trouble very early for any manufacturing/assembly issues, then anywhere between 150,000-500,000 for life issues.

Also worth noting that a properly rebuilt engine (rings, bearings, seals and correct tolerances) resets those estimates, so if you really like the car it is a valid option

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
    • If you really want squish back, you can have it put on the piston (at least to some extent).
    • Impressive. He's very very smooth.
×
×
  • Create New...